Axle Replacement Questions - Boler 13 - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-28-2012, 06:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Byron is correct in pointing out the leading arm with brakes to think about. Remember this, Someone will always tell you they have seen it done, have done it or heard of it being done.

I would not use brakes on a leading arm. A Hard brake will lift the camper and it could start hopping.

I would be certain to make it a BOLT on because the owner can replace the axle them self in just a couple of hours in the future. This is also the time to raise the camper if so desired.

Save your self some time and money and grief, do not put brakes on a leading arm, you will not like it!
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:10 PM   #16
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Derek, If you have a leading axle your in much better shape than I was.
The frame rails are not paralell at the point the axel is attached to the frame on my trailer.
My frame needed to be modified to install a new axel.
Instead of modifying the original area to add an axel he just moved the attachment point forward so I now have a trailing axel.
If the frame is out your installer can just turn it upside down in his shop and do the job with ease.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:16 PM   #17
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I can understand why a leading axle with brakes would be unadviseable. I wouldn't have even thought of it but its simple physics really. In moderate stops, leading brakes is probably OK but in a more aggressive stop situation it could be an underpants filling situation.

I had originally planned on this swap being a simple bolt off bolt on type situation. Sadly, it appears not so.

Derek
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:29 PM   #18
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Your trailer is 39 years old, let them weld it on it should be less expensive especially if you can take the frame to the shop.
The trailer probably will not need another axel for 20 or 25 years.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:14 PM   #19
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Trailer: '84 Scamp 13' & 2001 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
This guy says Dexter told him brakes were OK with a leading arm. You might discuss it with him and ask Dexter as well.
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Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens View Post
That's the same information I've received from someone using one of my designs. The one warning he got was that Dexter only manufacture in trailing arm configuration so, although the axle is good to use the other way around, after delivery he had to swap the brake assemblies from side to side so that they were on the correct side in leading arm orientation.

Did that make sense? It does to me writing it, but it could be confusing to read!
I'm 'this guy'. After discovering that my original leading arm Al-Ko(?) axle on my '85 Scamp 13 had absolutely no flex in the torsion arms (& was 'permanently' setting at approx 15-20* up angle) I began looking for a replacement axle. Talked to 'engineering' at Dexter about the leading arm configuration with brakes. He told me that Dexter no longer mfg's leading arm axles as a standard offering but they would mfg it to my specs (w/brakes) & he'd have no hesitation using such on a 1000/2000# trailer.

I also talked to Trent Fisher at Scamp & he told me that my trailer should have been delivered with leading torsion arms at 22.5* down angle (I can't believe that my axle had gone from 22.5* down to more'n 10* up thru normal wear, but that's another ??). I did want more ground clearance so I ordered a Dexter #9. 2.2K axle (de-rated to 2K) with 7" elect brakes, 22.5* down start angle. They DID mfg the axle with leading arms & the correct orientation for the brakes. I didn't have to reverse anything. I was told that ALL Dester axles are mfg'd to end user specs; none are 'off the shelf' inventory unless not accepted by the original consignee...

My grandson & I installed the axle last August. I've not used it enough to give a thorough test but it tows wonderfully & stops easily. No 'panic' stops thus far but have made a couple of 'quick' stops from street (not highway) speeds with no feeling of less than optimal control. I too trust the Dexter engineers to not steer me wrong. They're not in the 'sales' end of the business so I value their professional opinion.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:26 PM   #20
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I'm 'this guy'. ........
Thanks for weighing in Harvey. Nothing like the voice of experience.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:26 AM   #21
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Just as a follow up, I sent the following question to Dexter axle engineering:

Quote:
Older fiberglass campers,like Boler, have a torsion axle mounted in a leading configuration. If this axle is replaced, maintaining a leading arm configuration, can brakes be added at this time? Is adding brakes to a leading arm torsion axle inherently an issue? Thanks.
The answer from Dexter:

Quote:
We do not recommend the leading arm application. After the axle is installed and if it has a brake flange you could add brakes. The brakes don't care if it is a trailing or leading arm. Rick Kapsa | Product Manager Dexter Axle - Company Headquarters
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey View Post
I'm 'this guy'. After discovering that my original leading arm Al-Ko(?) axle on my '85 Scamp 13 had absolutely no flex in the torsion arms (& was 'permanently' setting at approx 15-20* up angle) I began looking for a replacement axle. Talked to 'engineering' at Dexter about the leading arm configuration with brakes. He told me that Dexter no longer mfg's leading arm axles as a standard offering but they would mfg it to my specs (w/brakes) & he'd have no hesitation using such on a 1000/2000# trailer.

Thanks "this guy." I am in the same position you were before your axle was replaced. I'm sitting at about 15* up. Its good to know that swapping out the existing axle with a new one (with brakes) is an acceptable option. It certainly does make life easier to do a simple swap out.

This conversation has come full circle, in a meaningful way. It probably is appropriate to have a discussion about emergency braking experiences, but that is one for a new thread.

Derek
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:40 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
Thanks "this guy." I am in the same position you were before your axle was replaced. I'm sitting at about 15* up. Its good to know that swapping out the existing axle with a new one (with brakes) is an acceptable option. It certainly does make life easier to do a simple swap out.

This conversation has come full circle, in a meaningful way. It probably is appropriate to have a discussion about emergency braking experiences, but that is one for a new thread.

Derek
Since you've already been able to 'un-bolt' your original axle from the chassis, you should have no problem installing a new one at the same location. My original axle was welded to the Scamp chassis so I just 'torched' off the old one at the 'L' of the mounting bracket, leaving the heavier steel portion to weld my new mounting kit to so I could bolt on the new axle. Worked well for me. Pix are in post # 21 of this thread - '82 Scamp Axle
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:36 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
I am looking for a new axle for my Boler 13. The old axle was bolted on to the frame. I was able to get the bolts loose without any significant drama. I expected at least one of the bolts to be rusted solid, but they all came apart without any problems. My electric impact wrench was able to take these apart with minimal effort. The frame has been removed from the trailer, and now the axle has been removed from the frame. Now its time to find a new axle. The old axle sags, and my tow vehicle requires brakes (which the old axle does not have). Since the old axle was bolted on, I should be able to get something that matches and bolt it together.

I have the order from Cerka, who appears to be the local Dexter supplier. No firm decisions have been made yet. I do have a couple questions.
http://www.cerka.ca/Torflex_order_form.pdf

I notice that the axle pictured on Paul Neumeister's website have a bend at the center of the main shaft of the axle. My axle had a straight main shaft. What is the advantage to the bend?
Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister

What is the correct start angle for the arm? My old axle was saggy enough that I don't trust using it to the old axle.

I plan to add electric brakes this time. Does this typically create any clearance issues?

Are there any other issues I should be aware of?
Derek

What is needed depends: Yes brakes are a great idea for any load over 500 lbs. (personal belief)
But I do believe based on your post you live in Ontario and the MTO has a requirement that if the trailer is over 3500 lbs. (not a problem) or (trailer weight is 50% or more of the tow vehicle weight brakes are a requirement)

As a result our Corolla needs trailer brakes to pull our boler not shure of the weight of a 13' loaded or the weight of your tow vehicle.

Maybe frame needs a little work
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:43 AM   #25
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Have cut and pasted this info from the MTO web site in the past on this site, did my research as we pull with a car not a truck.
Hope this helps
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:46 AM   #26
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P.S. Cute dog
and the people at fiberglassRv are a great group to find helpful hints
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:40 PM   #27
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What is needed depends: Yes brakes are a great idea for any load over 500 lbs. (personal belief)
But I do believe based on your post you live in Ontario and the MTO has a requirement that if the trailer is over 3500 lbs. (not a problem) or (trailer weight is 50% or more of the tow vehicle weight brakes are a requirement)

As a result our Corolla needs trailer brakes to pull our boler not shure of the weight of a 13' loaded or the weight of your tow vehicle.

Maybe frame needs a little work
In our case, our Subaru recommends brakes for trailers over 1000lbs. The vehicle itself is 4150lbs. Our adding of breaks was based on vehicle manufacturer recommendations. I wont know the true weight of the trailer until I have my restoration complete, but 2000lbs appears to be typical. It appears that the manufacturer recommendations are more conservative then the MTO requirements.

I have the frame out, and cleaned up. All it needed was some cleanup of surface rust and a repaint. The metal and welds all looked good. I've read some nightmare stories about frames with sloppy build quality and rot. I was lucky. The axle is shot, and I need brakes anyway. Even there I got lucky because the old axle was bolted on.


Derek
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:49 AM   #28
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Some use surge brakes it would save on the need for a battery. Electric brakes require a breakaway safety switch by law in Ontario you would need a battery on the trailer to make this work

Surge brakes would be fine for a small light trailer. Bolers very in weight even when same size not just due to cargo and equipment; think it may be due to variations like fiberglass thickness, frame thickness (many replaced) built at Earlton, or other location. Ours says the weight is including propane and fresh water full on closet door. Also it lists items we do not have? but seem to not have been removed. 17’ units run at 2150 to 2550 then add gear we run light no water very little inside e.g. no microwave.

Only a scale will tell for sure we have one at the local recycle location you may find them at many other locations but not a problem with your tv.

Like the Electric brake type best though no push at first braking to activate them; as we can get freaky weather in Canada had to deal with snow one year up north in August. Pardon the 4 letter word.
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