Blow out on the freeway - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-06-2015, 09:14 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
Jared, I have followed extensive discussions on rv.net and the consensus there was that Maxxis and Goodyear's Marathon are the only ST (trailer) tires anyone was aware of which allowed for safe travel at higher speeds, and those only with increased inflation pressure (beyond the max stated on sidewall). If you have knowledge of additional brands with stated ability to safely exceed 65 mph, I'd love to know about them.

I would never run over max sidewall pressure. They have to be ran 10psi over the load pressure to get to 75 mph. To get to 85 mph, you add 10 psi to the load pressure and derate the weight by 10% (manufacturer allowing). If I put my tires at max sidewall pressure, they would be good to 85, with an easy 1,000 pounds more weight than is there.

Hercules and gremax also said it was allowed. I would personally never run marathons to start with, but that's just me.


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Old 01-06-2015, 09:25 PM   #58
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Blow out on the freeway

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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
. I used good plugs in fleet service for decades, with nothing but excellent results.
I carry a plug kit and a small compressor and I even carry a can of fix-a-flat, both of which I have used it to help others stuck in traffic on occasion.
Heck, if you are planning to throw your tires away every 36 months anyway...???
We have only had one flat in the last thirty years... that was on our TV last year and it was a road hazard on a dark and rainy night in an Alabama construction zone! The spare was required and I must say that I was glad it was on the side away from traffic!

Each to their own. There is no such thing as a good cloth plug, in my book. They can allow belts to rust out, and tire plies to bubble, depending on where they deal. Both situations cause tread separation, leading to a complete blowout.

I changed a lot of blowouts that the customer said they had plugged awhile ago. I'm not a scientist, but I NEVER found the plug in the remaining tread. They were also the cause of many slow leaks.

I consider any tire I acquire with a cloth plug to be junk on sight. It's not worth it to me. I've had tire shops try to squeak them by, after I told them not to. They got to do it again while I watched, since the trust was gone. It takes all of 15 minutes to do it the right way, 30 if I do it myself at home.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=77

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Old 01-06-2015, 10:23 PM   #59
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Is any company making "run-flat" trailer tires like they do for cars?
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:17 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
Each to their own. There is no such thing as a good cloth plug, in my book. They can allow belts to rust out, and tire plies to bubble, depending on where they deal. Both situations cause tread separation, leading to a complete blowout.

I changed a lot of blowouts that the customer said they had plugged awhile ago. I'm not a scientist, but I NEVER found the plug in the remaining tread. They were also the cause of many slow leaks.

I consider any tire I acquire with a cloth plug to be junk on sight. It's not worth it to me. I've had tire shops try to squeak them by, after I told them not to. They got to do it again while I watched, since the trust was gone. It takes all of 15 minutes to do it the right way, 30 if I do it myself at home.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=77

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As you almost said... To each his own...I am not advocating plugs necessarily, but I do think there is a legitimate use for every tool in the box. Try demounting a tire on the expressway when the minispare has been flat for years. Insulted belts are more prone to failure , no matter how you fix the flat.
Much of what you say is at least based on good information,but circumstances can call for measured judgement and generalities are of course, always false!
There are about a hundred new cars on the market which come with no spare at all, a couple have run-flat tires and the rest have solutions which would likely curl your hair!
Here is one example which has been around for a while now and it is by no means the only solution used by the manufacturers.


Audi TT
Buick LaCrosse
Cadillac CTS
Cadillac SRX
Cadillac XTS
Chevrolet Camaro
Chevrolet Malibu
Chevrolet Spark
Chevrolet Volt
Dodge Caliber
Dodge Dart
Fiat 500
Ford C-Max
Ford Focus
Ford Fusion
Ford Mustang
Honda Accord
Hyundai Accent
Hyundai Elantra
Hyundai Sonata
Hyundai Veloster
Infiniti G
Kia Forte
Kia Rio
Kia Soul
Land Rover Range Rover Sport
Mazda MX-5 Miata
Mitsubishi i-MiEV
Nissan Leaf
Porsche 911
Porsche Boxster
Porsche Panamera
Scion iQ
Smart ForTwo
Toyota Prius
Volvo C70
Volvo S60
Keep in mind that the list is growing. Some models, such as the Kia Optima that came with a spare tire and aren’t on the list, now come with just an inflator kit.


Oddly enough, I have found that most steel belt failures are not caused by corrosion in a repair but rather by repeated stationary steering.

(sort of the severe "Dutch rub" of tires)
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:28 PM   #61
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I would never run over max sidewall pressure. They have to be ran 10psi over the load pressure to get to 75 mph. To get to 85 mph, you add 10 psi to the load pressure and derate the weight by 10% (manufacturer allowing). If I put my tires at max sidewall pressure, they would be good to 85, with an easy 1,000 pounds more weight than is there.

Hercules and gremax also said it was allowed. I would personally never run marathons to start with, but that's just me.


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I've never heard of gremax, but we do have a Hercules dealer in town. I'll have to check 'em out.

I'm not sure I understand some of what you're saying about pressure. Don't these tires say on the sidewall 50 psi max? If one tries to run at 75 mph, doesn't that require raising pressure to 60 psi? And isn't that "above max sidewall pressure"? (Not that doing so is a problem when the mfr allows it, of course.) I don't get the distinction between max sidewall pressure and load pressure; seems like those are two ways of saying the same thing.
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:54 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I personally do NOT care if my trailer tires are rated for/ at 65 mph or 165 mph
I have no intentions of driving while towing at any speed much above 60 mph
I am old ,retired and in no hurry to get anywhere.
I am a curmudgeon and enjoying every minute of it!
Ahh, sounds like me, even the curmudgeon, (dang had to look that one up). I stay off freeways, set the cruise control about 5 mph under the limit, sit back and enjoy the scenery.
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:15 AM   #63
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Interesting video Floyd, I've heard that they were omiting spares. Guess I'm old school as I want a real spare, even a temp tire. I just can't see relying that system or a tow truck for something as easy as changing a tire. Even if your spare is iffy. One comment about a "fix a flat" type sealers. I do carry it but I've only used it once and it did work. The folks that put new tires on weren't happy about all the residue left on the rim though.
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:28 AM   #64
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Is any company making "run-flat" trailer tires like they do for cars?
Dave & Paula
If they are there probable as hard to find a replacement for as they are for the cars. Went on a vacation with a friend to Vancouver Island a few years ago and they had the run flat tires on a new Toyota Van. There is a limit to how far you can actually go on it once its running flat. Unfortunately the nearest tire store that carried the tires would have required her to drive on the flat run-flat tire more than three times the recommended miles (I think hers were only rated to go for about 25 miles at 50 mph) .... we ended up having to stay in the town we were in for an extra couple of days until the replacement tire could be shipped to us. Her husband suggested after the fact we should have just bought new regular tires all the way around for it, as he did when the same thing happened to him on another trip in the interior of the province about 6 months later.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:36 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
I've never heard of gremax, but we do have a Hercules dealer in town. I'll have to check 'em out.

I'm not sure I understand some of what you're saying about pressure. Don't these tires say on the sidewall 50 psi max? If one tries to run at 75 mph, doesn't that require raising pressure to 60 psi? And isn't that "above max sidewall pressure"? (Not that doing so is a problem when the mfr allows it, of course.) I don't get the distinction between max sidewall pressure and load pressure; seems like those are two ways of saying the same thing.

My tires are 80 psi max.

For my load, I can run them at 50 psi and still have a wide safety margin. That means to do 75, I need to run 60 psi, and just for a little more cushion, I run them at 65.

Trailer tires don't need (necessarily) to be ran at max pressure. They need to be ran for the pressure that the weight of your trailer dictates, which is on a chart the manufacturer will have.

Each of my tires is rated for 2850 pounds. My trailer is nowhere near 5700 pounds, so I have a wide safety margin.


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Old 01-07-2015, 10:31 AM   #66
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my scamp had a full blowout on the way home with it. there was a spare so that was not a problem. what was a BIG problem was assuming my truck jack & wrench would work on the camper! thank God for the NC state trooper that came to help that night! he had a tiny jack & the RIGHT lug wrench. and he put up with my grateful hug and a few tears. he reminded me that its all part of the adventure
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:36 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
I've never heard of gremax, but we do have a Hercules dealer in town. I'll have to check 'em out.

I'm not sure I understand some of what you're saying about pressure. Don't these tires say on the sidewall 50 psi max? If one tries to run at 75 mph, doesn't that require raising pressure to 60 psi? And isn't that "above max sidewall pressure"? (Not that doing so is a problem when the mfr allows it, of course.) I don't get the distinction between max sidewall pressure and load pressure; seems like those are two ways of saying the same thing.
You have it right, and it is not worth a rehash here, as it will do no good, but load pressure charts are minimum pressures required to prevent tire damage at a particular load.
Very few if any RV trailers are designed well enough to be towed safely at 75mph or more, even with Formula1 tires. That's not to say it isn't done.
If nothing else, high speed beats the trailer to death and wastes fuel.
The plus side is that the vast majority of RV trailer wrecks are likely single car wrecks brought on by sway. Speed and sudden maneuvering are definite factors.
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:50 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by sharon_b View Post
BIG problem was assuming my truck jack & wrench would work on the camper! thank God for the NC state trooper that came to help that night!
A four way tire iron is a handy item to keep in the trailer - works for the lug nuts on the trailer (and probable tow) as well as removing the drain plug from the hot water tank. Folding one for easy storage is even better!
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:17 AM   #69
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If nothing else, high speed beats the trailer to death and wastes fuel.

Can also be costly in those States/Provinces that have restrictive speed limits when towing & many do!

Will cost you anywhere between $140 to $483 in these parts if caught speeding, depending on how much over the limit you where going - oh and we have a drivers licence points system as well. Each speeding ticket is a min. of 3 points - first three points are a freebie but if you get another ticket of any kind in a 5 year period you will get a bill on the anniversary date of your drivers licence. The cost per year for your drivers licence is $300 if you have had two speeding tickets within the past 5 years. The more tickets you have had the more you pay! For example 4 speeding tickets over a 5 year period will cost you an extra $1260 a year to keep your drivers licence. It takes 5 years from date of offence to get rid of the points and stop paying every year for them. If getting up into the 20 points range you are gong to be paying about $4000 to year for your licence each year.

Thats a lot of gas money wasted!! For what? Getting to a campsite an hour or so ahead of your friends?
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:19 PM   #70
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Can also be costly in those States/Provinces that have restrictive speed limits when towing & many do!

Will cost you anywhere between $140 to $483 in these parts if caught speeding, depending on how much over the limit you where going - oh and we have a drivers licence points system as well. Each speeding ticket is a min. of 3 points - first three points are a freebie but if you get another ticket of any kind in a 5 year period you will get a bill on the anniversary date of your drivers licence. The cost per year for your drivers licence is $300 if you have had two speeding tickets within the past 5 years. The more tickets you have had the more you pay! For example 4 speeding tickets over a 5 year period will cost you an extra $1260 a year to keep your drivers licence. It takes 5 years from date of offence to get rid of the points and stop paying every year for them. If getting up into the 20 points range you are gong to be paying about $4000 to year for your licence each year.

("Thats a lot of gas money wasted!! For what? Getting to a campsite an hour or so ahead of your friends?
")

We make an annual trip down South each Winter. A total of 1300 miles one way
(We drive at 60/62 mph)

1300 miles @ 55 mph = 23.6 Hrs
1300 miles @ 60 mph = 21.7 Hrs
1300 miles @ 65 mph = 20.0 Hrs.
1300 miles @ 70 mph = 18.6 Hrs.
1300 miles @ 75 mph = 17.4 Hrs

Driving at 60 mph versus 75 mph increase our driving time by 4.3 hrs.

Gas Mileage 2011 Ram 1500
60/62 mph = 13.8 mpg
70 /75 mph = 10.6 mpg

1300 miles @ 13.8 mpg = 94 gals fuel
1300 miles @ 10.6 mpg = 123 gal fuel
Difference in gallons of fuel used = 29 gal
29 gal x $3.49 / gal (2013 price) = $101.20

$101.20 add. fuel cost/ 4.3 hrs increased driving time =
$23.54 / Hr

$ 23.54 per hour in my book is not bad pay for just driving
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