Boler trailer brakes

[desy]

Hope someone can verify this:
Our 1978 Boler has two wires going into the back of each of the wheels, which I'm assuming means there should be brakes on the wheels? Can't think of any other reason why those wires would be there, but the trailer as we bought it is not set up to use brakes - it has a "flat four" plug. We're wanting to get brakes onto the trailer, so I'm hoping that there are brakes currently on the trailer that could be made operational, as I'm assuming that would make it a more straightforward proposition. Appreciate any info on this, thanks.

[Thomas G.]

I think that you are in luck. Even if the brakes are rusty and not operational, you can replace them with removal of just 4 bolts each, add a wire to a new 7 pin connector, add a brake controller to the tow vehicle and you are in business.

Cheap source: http://www.easternmarine.com/Electri...ke-Assemblies/

[Brian B-P]

Yes, the wires will be for brakes, since there is no other purpose for them. The part they go into is the brake assembly, and it should be closing off brake drums. If there were no brakes on the trailer, there would be no drums with integrated hubs, just hubs without drums(normally called an "idler hub").

When brakes wear out, some people just stop using them. Some people don't bother setting their tow vehicle up to control the brakes, and since they have only a 4-pin socket on the tow vehicle, they cut off the trailer wiring and put just a 4-wire cable and 4-pin plug on it. This wiring can reasonably easily be replaced, restoring the ability to use the brakes.

I agree with Tom - you're in a good position to get back to having proper brakes.

By the way, brakes were not normally provided on the Boler 1300, only the larger models (they were certainly standard on the 1700), so if this is a 1300 someone in the past went to significant expense to add brakes. Maybe they just never got around to the wiring?

All my links above are to sample 3500lb-capacity Dexter hardware; brands vary somewhat in appearance and a Boler 1300 would likely have smaller 2000lb or 2200lb-capacity components.

[desy]

Hey, thanks for the input, good to know that we're probably a step ahead as far as getting brakes operational on the trailer. It's a 13 ft Boler that we have, so yeah, seems odd that someone might have actually added brakes and then let them go unused, but guess maybe another owner somewhere down the line.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by desy

Hey, thanks for the input, good to know that we're probably a step ahead as far as getting brakes operational on the trailer. It's a 13 ft Boler that we have, so yeah, seems odd that someone might have actually added brakes and then let them go unused, but guess maybe another owner somewhere down the line.

If an axle wasn't built with the brake attaching flanges, it is a big deal. Owners generally end up buying a whole new axle, though the flanges can be purchased separately if you can find someone to weld them on. Anecdotally, it seems that welders don't want to take on this job.

In any case, good for you for getting the brakes working. You will have safer, more confident towing and that makes camping even more fun.

[desy]

Have now an additional related question, maybe I should start a new thread, but going to add it here for now:

We are in the process of purchasing a new tow vehicle, and as part of the deal they're agreeing to put a hitch on the new vehicle. Wanted to make sure which wiring connector to ask them to install on the vehicle, as the Boler is now a "flat four", but realizing that will have to be changed to accommodate wiring for the trailer brakes, and wanting to get the right connector put on the tow vehicle now.

I think we need the 7 prong connector, is that the right one to ask for? Appreciate info on this, thanks.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by desy

.............

I think we need the 7 prong connector, is that the right one to ask for? Appreciate info on this, thanks.

Yes, you want a 7 pin connector. It is also nice to have a trailer battery charging line in addition to the brake and controller wiring. That charging line needs to be at least 10 gauge to charge the battery, heavier if you want to run a 12 volt refrigerator while driving.

[Brian B-P]

Make sure it's the RV style 7-pin, with flat pins around the outside, not one of the commercial truck 7-pins with all round pins. The RV style is the one for electric brakes and that charging line.

Until the trailer is rewired, you can use a 7-pin to 4-pin adapter, or get the tug equipped with one of the now common receptacles that has both 7-pin and 4-pin sockets.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

.........Until the trailer is rewired, you can use a 7-pin to 4-pin adapter, or get the tug equipped with one of the now common receptacles that has both 7-pin and 4-pin sockets.

Good advice, especially if you pull another trailer, like a small utility trailer, with the 4 flat plug.

[desy]

Once again, appreciate all the helpful input. This forum continues to be a very valuable resource for us getting our Boler on the road.