Bottle Jacks vs. Scissor Jacks - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-28-2010, 05:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
You have a 19' Bigfoot whose tow hitch is 16" (off the ground?)

I agree with Gene in that a 10 ton (20,000 pound) jack is overkill. I happen to have a tiny little 2 ton (4,000 pound) bottle jack that came with my Fiber Stream. It is adequate for me because my trailer weighs 3,100 pounds fully loaded.

..... think about what parameters you need to meet for the job, such as:
  1. Weight Capacity. I suggest a 4 ton (8,000 pound) jack for your trailer. Possibly lighter to carry and push under the flat than a 10 ton unit.
Thanks Ferderick,

Prior to adding a back porch for my generator, I weighed my trailer (fully loaded).

Here are the results.

UnHooked WT: 3720 LBS
Hooked WT: 3200 LBS
Tongue WT: 520 LBS

The generator (with gas) and back porch probably add 150 lbs to the trailer wieght.

Given this info, do you still recommend I get an 4 ton Jack?

Thanks again.
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Old 12-28-2010, 06:52 PM   #16
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Question How much of a risk taker are you?

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Originally Posted by Jane P. View Post
Given this info, do you still recommend I get an 4 ton Jack?
A low risk is to operate any equipment you have within the range of 50% to 75% of it's rated capacity. Medium risk is to operate in the range of 75% to 100%. High risk is to operate from 100% to 125%. Most testing procedures I have been involved in require a jack or crane or elevator to perform at 125% of rated capacity for a finite amount of time (10 or more minutes) without degradation.

If I make a recommendation, it will always be for being able to operate at the lowest possible risk within reasonable limitations.

While I do have a 2-ton bottle jack, every time I have had a flat I have actually used something considerably lighter: My Good Sam's Emergency Road Service Card. No risk at all...
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Old 12-28-2010, 07:04 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
A low risk is to operate any equipment you have within the range of 50% to 75% of it's rated capacity. Medium risk is to operate in the range of 75% to 100%. High risk is to operate from 100% to 125%. Most testing procedures I have been involved in require a jack or crane or elevator to perform at 125% of rated capacity for a finite amount of time (10 or more minutes) without degradation.

If I make a recommendation, it will always be for being able to operate at the lowest possible risk within reasonable limitations.

While I do have a 2-ton bottle jack, every time I have had a flat I have actually used something considerably lighter: My Good Sam's Emergency Road Service Card. No risk at all...
I got one of those.

I'm just thinking it would be wise have something handy if I find myself in a situation where I cannot contact Good Sam.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:04 PM   #18
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Thanks Ferderick,

Prior to adding a back porch for my generator, I weighed my trailer (fully loaded).

Here are the results.

UnHooked WT: 3720 LBS
Hooked WT: 3200 LBS
Tongue WT: 520 LBS

The generator (with gas) and back porch probably add 150 lbs to the trailer wieght.

Given this info, do you still recommend I get an 4 ton Jack?

Thanks again.
A 2 ton jack is rated for 4000 pounds and 4 ton is 8000 pounds. You will not lift the entire trailer at once, only one side, and the front will be hitched or supported on a stand. Based on the weights you provided, the jack would have to lift half of the 3200 pounds or 1600 pounds. A one ton (2000 pound) jack should be enough. You could get a 2 ton if you wanted to have lots of extra capacity. Scissor jacks usually weigh less and have more jacking range than bottle jacks and in my opinion are not difficult to crank.

Andy
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:23 AM   #19
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Check the load limit of your tire and match that with a jack and you will be safe. You will find that a 1 and/or 2 ton jack will exceed the tire limit.
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:58 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy B View Post
You will not lift the entire trailer at once, only one side, and the front will be hitched or supported on a stand. Based on the weights you provided, the jack would have to lift half of the 3200 pounds or 1600 pounds. A one ton (2000 pound) jack should be enough.
Thank you, Andy. Sometimes I can overlook an obvious detail.
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:23 PM   #21
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Thank you, Andy. Sometimes I can overlook an obvious detail.
Your welcome Frederick, and I really like the advice that you gave about capacity and risk factors.

"A low risk is to operate any equipment you have within the range of 50% to 75% of it's rated capacity. Medium risk is to operate in the range of 75% to 100%. High risk is to operate from 100% to 125%. Most testing procedures I have been involved in require a jack or crane or elevator to perform at 125% of rated capacity for a finite amount of time (10 or more minutes) without degradation."

That is so true not just for jacks but for many different things. I tried to express that point in a tire discussion about the 65mph max limit with ST tires and why I chose LT tires, but did not state the point nearly as well as you did.

Thanks, Andy
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:17 PM   #22
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I like scissors jacks for the following reasons:

No fluid to leak, externally nor internally.

I have a hydraulic floor jack that I used in a non level situation removing a tree stump. It does not work any longer. The fluid apparently went into parts of the mechanism it should not have.

Scissors have a much greater range. I have an old "Big Boy" from my grandfather. It goes from 4" to 15". This is much smaller than a bottle jack. Don't forget, a jack that will fit under your trailer when the tires are full may not when one is flat.

You can maybe get an old auto jack from a junk yard for $5. Half of the weight of a 3500# trailer is 1750#, say 2K#. A ton and a half should be more than enough. Don't forget you pay for the weight in gas mileage.
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