Brake Controller Wiring - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-29-2009, 10:28 PM   #1
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Name: Don
Trailer: 1989 Bigfoot 17'
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I installed a Voyager brake controller in my '65 Pickup tonight. I put the white wire to ground (bolt that mounts steering column to dash), the red wire to the stoplight switch (wire that has power when brake pedal depressed) and the black wire went to a 20A fuse on my fuse panel that is only hot with the key on. I wanted to test and make sure it was working OK before I finished up all the wiring but the blue wire has 12 volts at it at all times, even when pedal not depressed. I double checked the red "trigger" wire and it only has power when pedal is depressed. Does this seem correct or am I somehow getting the 12 volts to the blue wire by bypassing the red trigger wire? Don't know how this can happen but if I hook the trailer up, the brakes will be on all the time. Any ideas???
Thanks
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:29 AM   #2
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Quote:
I installed a Voyager brake controller in my '65 Pickup tonight. I put the white wire to ground (bolt that mounts steering column to dash), the red wire to the stoplight switch (wire that has power when brake pedal depressed) and the black wire went to a 20A fuse on my fuse panel that is only hot with the key on. I wanted to test and make sure it was working OK before I finished up all the wiring but the blue wire has 12 volts at it at all times, even when pedal not depressed. I double checked the red "trigger" wire and it only has power when pedal is depressed. Does this seem correct or am I somehow getting the 12 volts to the blue wire by bypassing the red trigger wire? Don't know how this can happen but if I hook the trailer up, the brakes will be on all the time. Any ideas???
Thanks
I may have answered my own question after a visit to the Tekonsha site and their FAQ's.

"[b]Q.) There is 12 volts on the Blue Wire all the time.
A.) This is normal operation. The VoyagerŪ sends a low current voltage checking for the trailer. Once the Voyager has a complete circuit to ground on the Blue wire. Then the Green light will come on and the voltage will disappear. "

Have to research it a little more when I get home tonight.
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:57 AM   #3
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If you read the directions fully, it also states that the main power wire to the controller should be connected through an automatic reset circuit breaker directly to the battery. The ground to the controller should likewise be connected straight to the battery. This minimizes the possibility of a voltage drop at one of the connections or a complete failure of trailer braking should a fuse blow.

Just a friendly heads up.

Take care.
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Old 07-30-2009, 03:33 PM   #4
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Thanks Eric. I read that in the instructions but I am not comfortable with power being fed to the controller at all times. With mine, it is only powered with the key turned on. I will replace the fuse with a push in 20A circuit breaker. My truck has two fuse panels on it. One is hot all the time and the other panel is ignition fed (hot with the key turned on). I suppose the ground back to the battery is a better method that I can look at.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:38 PM   #5
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Don,
I have the P3 controller and it shuts off the power 15 minutes after the last motion of the car.

Bill K
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I am not comfortable with power being fed to the controller at all times.
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:23 PM   #6
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Trailer: 1989 Bigfoot 17'
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I hooked the trailer onto the truck tonight after finishing up the controller installation and sure enough, the green light comes on, no power at the blue wire until the brake pedal is depressed and then the light turns from green to red. Looks like we completed the task successfully. Now on to the next task.....
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