Brakes install stalled out! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-30-2014, 04:21 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
That is great advice Badger. Thanks. I can't wait to try this again! :O
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2014, 11:44 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
Grease seals

Closeup of the two sizes of seals that came with my 7" brake kit: They send two sizes of seals and bearings with the kit because some spindles are 1" and some are 1-1/16". But these don't look like the same type of seal to me, I'm thinking only the one on the left is a double ring seal and the one on the right is not a double ring... ? The outer ring on the one on the left is clearly taller than the inner ring, which would give the grease a place to come out of the EZ Lube hole in the spindle. The one on the right is the one we used because it's the 1-1/16", and we had the problem of the grease going behind the seal. Now I think we know why.
I have ordered the metal seals for our next attempt, just thought this was interesting. Live and learn.
Attached Thumbnails
100_4281.jpg  
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2014, 12:39 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
Closeup of the two sizes of seals that came with my 7" brake kit: They send two sizes of seals and bearings with the kit because some spindles are 1" and some are 1-1/16". But these don't look like the same type of seal to me, I'm thinking only the one on the left is a double ring seal and the one on the right is not a double ring... ? The outer ring on the one on the left is clearly taller than the inner ring, which would give the grease a place to come out of the EZ Lube hole in the spindle. The one on the right is the one we used because it's the 1-1/16", and we had the problem of the grease going behind the seal. Now I think we know why.
I have ordered the metal seals for our next attempt, just thought this was interesting. Live and learn.
You're right about double vs single, but the seal needs to match the depth of the hub such that it leaves the inner bearing a bit of room.

I wish you lived around the corner, I'd come over and lend a hand.

Best of luck to you!

Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2014, 01:28 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Timber Wolf's Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
If-it-was-me (as my Grandfather would say) I would just clean up the pads, install new (better) seals and keep going. IMHO there is a lot of difference between getting fresh grease on a new pad surface and grease leaking all over the pads over a long period of time, the pads getting really hot, and the grease deeply saturating the pads. In the first case you made a mess, in the second you ruined stuff. There is a lot of phobia around about trailer brakes. Yes they should work and work well. But, in the real world they mostly just need to keep the trailer from running you over.
Timber Wolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2014, 02:02 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
Sorry, I can't agree with your advice, especially to a novice mechanic.

Even making the suggestion to just wipe it off (especially in this case after soaking in for at least a day or two) gives all kinds of free license to other wannabe mechanics to make their own decisions as to what to do when something spills on a brake shoe (or Pad) Maybe next time it's oil or brake fluid.

Brakes are a critical safety device and those decision should only be made by the most skilled & experienced mechanic, most of which I know would just toss the contaminated parts because they won't risk a customer or their reputation on that practice.



Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2014, 04:58 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
Both of those seals in the picture are double lip seals.
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2014, 05:08 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
We ordered a new brake backing plate. We started to clean the grease out of the one we filled with grease using Brakleen and kitty litter, and decided it was not worth the time and effort. It really needs to be disassembled to get at all the grease that is in the springs and between the pieces etc. and a new one was only $32 including shipping. I'm really just trying to become more informed about the seals at this time so that we can save ourselves from making a mistake again. Not that we would keep pumping a whole tube of grease into it again!!!! Learned that one.
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2014, 08:50 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,561
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Trailer shop I go to said blowing grease into the hubs is very common, had the stack of grease covered parts in a scrap barrel to prove his point.

I seem to recall he also recommended rotating the hub a bit as the grease was put in to distribute it around the bearing. Not sure if that is the same axle as you have but it makes sense.
The instruction manual that came with my new Deter axle specifically says rotate the hub as you as lubricating it. Dexter recommends use a new seal whenever the hub is removed from the axle.
Jack L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2014, 08:04 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
Update: Good decision to take it to a mechanic!

Well, we gave up trying to do the brakes install ourselve and brought it to a shop that works on trucks, trailers, and such. They did the work on the Scamp in one day, and added a gizmo that will turn on the brakes if the camper becomes disconnected from the vehicle by accident, and also noticed that my tires had dry rot down the middle, so I got new tires too. The brake controller fits into a nice little spot in my dash that looks made for it, and I drove home without having to do anything different. i took it down a steep hill and watched the numbers go up on the brake controller. it did feel easier to slow down. You can hear the brakes engage when you stand by the camper as I'm backing into my parking spot according to hubby. So all in all, a pretty good experience so far despite the rough start. Looking forward to taking my next trip, which is partly on busy highways around the outskirts of Boston, and having BRAKES. Thanks everyone for all of the information, encouragement, and cautionary tales.
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2014, 08:39 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
Timber Wolf's Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
Congrats on the brakes, and new tires. Life is too short, and trailer tires too cheap to mess with maypops. This stuff is supposed to be fun, not an exercise in roadside repairs.
Timber Wolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2014, 09:09 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
Angry The saga continues

Well I THOUGHT I was all set, but no. Headed out on my first Scamping trip with my professionally installed brakes, all was going well, liked how well I could slow down and stop with them. Then I stopped to check things about 40 min. into the trip and found the hubs were really hot! The left one too hot to touch, the right one I could touch it for about 5 seconds. Waited an hour and a half for them to cool off, disconnected brake controller, and drove home. They were hot again when I got home. There is a loud squeak now too. I am soooooooo discouraged.....
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2014, 09:42 PM   #32
Member
 
Name: will
Trailer: 16' Scamp
Wyoming
Posts: 70
My first thought is wheel bearings set too tight.
Second thought is brakes abjusted too tight.
Bad way to start a Scamping trip

Will
Wyowill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2014, 07:26 AM   #33
Senior Member
 
Timber Wolf's Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
Waited an hour and a half for them to cool off, disconnected brake controller, and drove home. They were hot again when I got home. There is a loud squeak now too. I am soooooooo discouraged.....
Something is too tight. I spent a lot of my early adulthood tightening stuff too tight. I ruined a lot of brakes, drums, hubs, alternators, water pumps, etc. and wrung off numerous bolts in the process of gaining wisdom. IMHO the trailer brakes are not supposed to stop the TV, they are there to keep the trailer from passing you when you stop. But then I do NOT belong to the let-me-see-how-small-a-TV-I-can-possibly-tow-with crowd either.
Timber Wolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2014, 07:45 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
I am wondering how much disassembling and checking for damage I should make sure the mechanic does? This is a really good shop by reputation, it's a truck shop and the mechanic I dealt with was very familiar with electric brakes. I have to think that they will sincerely want to fix it right.
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2014, 05:28 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
I am wondering how much disassembling and checking for damage I should make sure the mechanic does? This is a really good shop by reputation, it's a truck shop and the mechanic I dealt with was very familiar with electric brakes. I have to think that they will sincerely want to fix it right.
If that's the case, take 'me back, see what the dude does (NOT says). Sounds to me like somebody tightened the axle nuts too tight., but hard to say without looking.

Best of luck to ya.

Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2014, 03:53 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
update: the mechanic started looking at it late this afternoon, with one wheel and hub disassembled they said the brake lining looks fine, the bearings look fine, they took pictures which they will email to me, and they think the brake was adjusted up too much. they will finish up tomorrow with the other side, which was the one that was squeaking and screaming as I drove it. I wonder if they will find something different there. After they fix it he wants me (and I want me) to take it for a test drive to see if the wheels heat up again. My question is, how much heating up is normal on a Scamp 13' with the 7.5" brakes?
Without brakes my hubs were always cool.
Thank you very much for all the help with this.
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2014, 03:58 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
Tell ya what, yer hubs should not get over like 120F even on a hot day. I carry one of those cheap little laser pointed remote temp sensors (like 15 or 20 bucks from Amazon) and check mine continually. Last trip, real hot weather, I was getting 115 at the hubs. Not the hub cap, the hubs.

I don't know what yer guys are using for grease, but I swear by Lucas Red & Tacky.

Best of luck to ya!

Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2014, 05:06 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Byron Kinnaman's Avatar
 
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Tell ya what, yer hubs should not get over like 120F even on a hot day. I carry one of those cheap little laser pointed remote temp sensors (like 15 or 20 bucks from Amazon) and check mine continually. Last trip, real hot weather, I was getting 115 at the hubs. Not the hub cap, the hubs.

I don't know what yer guys are using for grease, but I swear by Lucas Red & Tacky.

Best of luck to ya!

Frank

Your 115° was more like 100°. Those cheap and even many expensive IR thermometers are NOT made to work in air temperatures much above or below 72°F (room temperature). They're kind of like your auto air temp gauge that warns of ice when the air temperature gets to 35°. It's too late in many cases, freezing road surfaces can occur at much higher air temperatures. The biggest difference I've see is the road temperature 25° and air 50°F.

Just be aware of measuring instrument's limitations. One of the biggest problems in many cases is not knowing or understanding the limitations of instrument being used.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
Byron Kinnaman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2014, 02:21 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 294
went to pick it up and took it for a test drive. Drove about 25 miles, hubs only heated up a little, but I had very little braking assistance from the brakes. Like, next to none. So went back, they tightened them a little, another test drive, and they were hot again.
Left it there, they are loosening things up, I suggested maybe it was the hubs that were too tight...described the instructions saying to tighten to 40 lbs. and then back off 1/4 turn.
They are going to take it for a test run this time, hopefully it will be all set tomorrow.
Why oh why did I think we couldn't do this by ourselves???
DogHaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2014, 04:19 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Name: Sharon
Trailer: UHaul
Massachusetts
Posts: 107
Registry
I seem to remember you did try to do the brake pads yourselves. . Hopfeully it will all work out for not too much money and you can get back on the road with it.


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
Sharon D is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
brakes


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
When it's cold out and you're sitting out, how do you keep warm? rgrugg General Chat 40 02-22-2012 08:56 PM
checking out a scamp in albert lea MN? and cost to install heater? sdsjdo General Chat 23 12-04-2011 10:43 AM
Flat Panel TV Mount Install efawcett Modifications, Alterations and Updates 10 07-23-2009 04:59 PM
Car Stereo Install efawcett Modifications, Alterations and Updates 0 07-18-2009 03:17 PM
brakes or no brakes Penney H. & Mike E. Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 17 08-13-2007 02:35 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.