Breakaway Switch - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-03-2015, 09:27 AM   #43
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Breakaway Switch

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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post

BTW: Where was it even suggested to connect the break-away switch to the TV's battery? I missed that.....

I never said it was. I've seen more than a few trailers with breakaway switches and no trailer batteries, operating under the misguided belief the tow power will provide the emergency braking, and we have people on here that don't have trailer batteries.

Hence, my comment. A breakaway switch is useless without a trailer battery.

As for the rest, if safety chains are the proper length (NOT by twisting them), the umbilical should be longer than them, and in no harm of disconnecting if the chains hold.


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Old 01-26-2015, 12:07 PM   #44
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In Ontario the breakaway switch is only needed if you have brakes on your trailer; then it is a requirement.
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:10 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
I never said it was. I've seen more than a few trailers with breakaway switches and no trailer batteries, operating under the misguided belief the tow power will provide the emergency braking, and we have people on here that don't have trailer batteries.

Hence, my comment. A breakaway switch is useless without a trailer battery.

As for the rest, if safety chains are the proper length (NOT by twisting them), the umbilical should be longer than them, and in no harm of disconnecting if the chains hold.


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How correct you are no power then when disconnected and it can not work; also add that in Ontario the battery is required if you have electric brakes with a breakaway switch.
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:07 PM   #46
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A number of breakaway switch kits come with their own small battery system that can be charged by the tow vehicle. Hence, while the trailer may not have it's own battery, the brakes will still be powered in the event of a switch actuation.


A 750 lb pop-up trailer I rebuilt two years had such an arrangement until I added a in-coach battery system
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:10 PM   #47
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Funny thing I installed a brake-away battery kit on my Boler with a battery.

Realized my mistake when the charge light was illuminated in the brake-away battery while the tow vehicle wasn't connected. Now I just have a brake-away switch 😄


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Old 02-10-2015, 09:34 AM   #48
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Question RE: Wiring a Curt 52010 breakaway on a Scamp 16

I'll spare you the story of my utility trailer repeatedly smacking the back of my truck when the hitch bounced off the ball. The end result is that I have a Curt 52010 breakaway switch to mount on my Scamp 16. The 52010 has two blue electrical leads and the usual plastic plug with a steel cable.

On the Scamp, the 7-conductor TV connector wire bundle disappears into the trailer at the right front, along with positive and negative leads from the battery. At the floor of the closet inside there is a bulge in the rat fur that covers a knot of wire nuts (Scamp's version of a distribution panel), in which I would expect to find the blue wire from the wiring harness connected to the blue wire that eventually emerges from the trailer floor just aft of the left (driver-side) wheel, from whence it goes to both brake drums.

I hope that's clear.

My plan is to mount the 52010 alongside the tongue, run both wires into the closet thru the same hole as the harness and leads from the battery, and connect one blue wire to the blue brake wire, and one blue wire to the (black) battery positive lead.

Seem like a good plan?

I don't need to worry about ground, since the 52010 is just on the hot side of the brake activation line, right? Or should I be sure there is a ground between the switch body and the tongue? (Hate to scratch away the paint on the tongue.)

Scamp seems to use wire nuts for the 12 volt connections. Is there a better way? Crimp-on connectors?


As always, thanks for any comments or suggestions,

Chuck
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:56 AM   #49
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Sounds good, but I would sped some time getting rid of any wire nuts, both on 12 VDC wires, and any you find outside of a terminal box on 120VAC wires.
You will need to get what's called a "Pressure Crimper" (not one of those pliers looking cheapies) and some good quality splices from an electronics shop. Cheap terminals/splices often have poor quality metal in them and loose their grip after a period of time. That's personal experience speaking here.....
Good Luck
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:06 AM   #50
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I agree with Bob the wire nuts aren't a good idea for a trailer or anything that moves and bounces up and down. After some bad experiences with crimp connectors, I learned to make all the connections on my Casita with solder and shrink wrap tubing. It's a bit more effort, but awfully secure.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:01 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borden View Post
In Ontario the breakaway switch is only needed if you have brakes on your trailer; then it is a requirement.
And in Ontario if the trailer weights more than 3000lbs loaded brakes are a requirement as well.
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