Broken coupler - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 08-04-2014, 10:11 PM   #15
Senior Member
Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper, 2002 Highlander 3.0L, 1999 F250 7.3L Diesel
Posts: 471
When you replace the wooden handle of an ax or sledge hammer, you slide one end of the new handle up into the center hole in the ax or hammer head until flush, then there is a metal wedge that you pound down into the exposed end to spread the wood, and that pressure of the wood pushed hard against the metal holds the new wooden handle in place. It looks like a pack of those small metal wedges from a hardware store, say 3 or 4 per side, to go from bottom to top, would fill the gap for welding. Maybe. And I'd think they would be relatively cheap because they are old school...

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Old 08-08-2014, 11:15 PM   #16
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette
Posts: 567
Originally Posted by Ve3iny View Post
I have a stress crack too, but noticed before too late. So i hired a welder to remove the original coupler, and install a new coupler similar to the harbour freight coupler you bought. But after the welder removed the old coupler, and cleaned up the frame, we noticed the old Boler frame had an angle of 45 degrees instead of 50 degrees. So now I have a Boler that I cant pull. All new couplers seem to be 50 degrees. You mentioned your harbour freight coupler fit like a sock, but in my case, there is a 3/8" gap on either side of the coupler (at the end closest to trailer, and on both aides) so the welder could weld the top lip of the coupler, but could not fill the gap.

Just curious how your welder did the install. Did the sides of your coupler lay flush against the sides of your frame ? Or was there a gap, and if so how did your guy fill it in ?

Anyone else run inti his problem ?
When I installed a Bulldog coupler on our 2003 Scamp I ran into that angle mismatch. I ended up taking 2 wedge cuts out of the Bulldog coupler and bent it closed, beveled, and welded it back together with full penetration welds. The closed wedges fell right down the centerlines of the Scamp tongue members. It was then welded to the Scamp per Bulldog instructions and looks like it was made for it.
I enjoy using the bulldog coupler, as it is easy to line up and close with a positive latching mechanism. I added an 4" extension lever welded onto the Bulldog closing tab which really improved the ease of opening the coupler. The lever has a gear shift knob for ergonomics. I may be able to post a picture if anyone is interested.

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Old 08-10-2014, 05:44 AM   #17
Junior Member
Name: Bob
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 3
Thank you for all the replies and suggestions. Finally found a mobile Welder come to my house yesterday to get us back on the road. Went with the wedge idea - although I almost slit the coupler like the last post suggested, but only had one cutting disk left, and Welder was already backing into driveway. This sucker will never come off ! Also took advantage of 3/8" thick end of wedge for to weld safety chains to. Nice and secure now. Previous owner had chains fastened using a single 1/4" bolt through the middle of old couplet. Thanks all ... Click image for larger version

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