Burro bearings and races question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-28-2014, 07:58 PM   #1
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Burro bearings and races question

Hi I am replacing the bearings on my 83 burro and pulled the hubs off yesterday.
Does this look like a normal placement for the races.. I feel like they should be right on the lip at the bottom? It was this way on both hubs... All around. Just want to make sure previous owner did not miss something.. Want to get it right. This is my first time to repack bearings.. Thanks for looking.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-28-2014, 08:18 PM   #2
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Name: will
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The bearings should be ALL the way in toward the center of the hub, against the step machined in hub. If they are not, the race can move toward the center, allowing bearing to be too loose. Seal shoule be flush with back of hub.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:23 PM   #3
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I think they are in all the way against a lip or step in the hub that you can't see. If they weren't you wouldn't be able to get the nut on the axle enough. You'll have to make sure though that they are seated in all the way. If your replacing the bearings you'll have to get them out anyways and then you'll know.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:38 PM   #4
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Like Bob says, may as well take them out and see what they rest on. Bearings and seals are cheap, but be advised to get ones made by U.S. companies. SKF are good, and in my experience NAPA seals are U.S. made.

Best of luck to you!

Frank
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:55 PM   #5
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Frank, cheap is a relative term. Just yesterday I needed bearings for my daughters popup camper. Went to my local independently owned parts store. He says I've got the "good" BCA bearings in stock, $16 each, or I can get the "cheap" bearings which are $6 each and we've had no problems with. I took the BCA's.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentshirt View Post
Hi I am replacing the bearings on my 83 burro and pulled the hubs off yesterday.
Does this look like a normal placement for the races..
Pretty hard to diagnose on the internet...have you had a real live expert take a look?

My preferred way to deal with a question like this is to haul the part in question down to my trusted local autoparts store and show it to the boys behind the counter. They've never failed me yet.
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:40 PM   #7
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Bearings etc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentshirt View Post
Hi I am replacing the bearings on my 83 burro and pulled the hubs off yesterday.
Does this look like a normal placement for the races.. I feel like they should be right on the lip at the bottom? It was this way on both hubs... All around. Just want to make sure previous owner did not miss something.. Want to get it right. This is my first time to repack bearings.. Thanks for looking.Attachment 71652Attachment 71653
A picture of the bearing cone cleaned up and the bearing cup in the hub cleaned will give you a clue if it is ok. check the roller bearings in the cone and make sure their are no scratches in the surfaces. If all looks good repack with a heavy duty wheel bearing grease and replace the seals with new ones. Use new cotter pins when installing. I would suggest you get a torque wrench and a socket to fit the nut. When installing the drum/hub tighten the nut while turning the drum to set the bearings torque setting 30-40 ft pds. Back the nut off and install the cotter pin.
Chuck
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:08 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the advice... Much appreciated!!
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:43 PM   #9
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I second Bob on the shoulder against which the race seats not being very wide, not much more than 3 or 4mm. OP didn't ask but I'd suggest getting the tooling for the job at hand: set of cheap aluminum race and seal setters (you won't need but 1 or two for the races and one for the seals but they come in sets and are inexpensive from Harbor Freight or eBay); also provide yourself with a hammer with some heft, heavy ball peen or an old cross pane smith hammer altho a claw hammer will work; finally provide yourself with a brass or bronze drift (a 7/8 or 1" dia. round x 8-10" long is about right) for driving out races. DON'T drift races out with a steel bar or punch. The softer bronze prevents gouging and upsetting the hub bore where the race seats. Employ a race setter and you'll know when the race is against that tiny shoulder without benefit of expertise beyond your own experience of ain't going no further, man!

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Old 05-29-2014, 06:12 PM   #10
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Contrary to Jacks opinion I use a steel pin punch 1/4" or 3/8" dia. to remove and install the races. Carefully tapping side to side, moving them little at a time in or out, making sure the punch keeps a nice flat end with no nicks in it. When the races seat you'll know it. Been using this method for 50 years, other than when I use one of my hydraulic presses, and never damaged a bearing. But it makes no difference to me what method is used, as long as it works for the one doing the job. When I worked on big trucks and trailers, those hubs had notches in the race seats for a bigger punch, I liked that.
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