Quote:
|
I am a brand new owner of a 1988 (17 ft.) Burro. This is our first travel trailer. I have packed the wheel bearings, but am unsure as to how tight to make the axle nut. Any suggestions?
|
Landy,
In general, most
axle nuts are tightened to a fairly high torque level and then backed off until you can insert the cotter pin or locking tab. Some will have a large washer under the nut that should be movable with a screwdriver with just a little drag on it. Here's a quote from Pete Dumbleton, which he copied from Dexter:
Here's a quote from the Dexter PDF on bearings -- It is my experience that various wheel bearings require different "preload" (initial tightening while turning the hub) torques in order to properly seat the various components -- Indeed, there should be a certain small amout of play in a cold wheel when one is done, perhaps to allow for expansion at running temps.
[b]QUOTE
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50
lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.
4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.
5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut.
6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin.
The procedure is slightly different for EZLube hubs because they use a different fastener than a cotter pin.
I'm sure a search on "wheel bearings" will turn up Pete's post (which I saved as a Word doc) and probably others. Pete's post was on Jul 13, 2006.
Parker
Linear Mode
Chevy Camaro Forum
Ford Mustang Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum
Volkswagen Touareg Forum
Land Rover Defender Forum
