Camper not really movable in current state - what to do? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 08-01-2014, 05:51 PM   #29
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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Flexride is another axle company. Last year I talked to someone that ordered a Dexter axle. He was very satisfied with it but it sounded like there were a lot of specs and dimensions to be submitted in order to get what you need. Various mounting options and suspension angles. Info from someone who has already done the identical trailer would be a big help. Finding a place that will do the swap AND order the axle is best, as long as they do it right. I'm thinking of a Flexride because the arms are adjustable, one less spec I'll need to worry about.

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Old 08-01-2014, 05:54 PM   #30
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Trailer: 2009 17 ft Casita Freedom Deluxe
Posts: 317
We had our Casita axle replaced at an RV repair shop (insurance claim). Even they were on the third azle before they got it right. As I recall the price was about $1200 for that part of the repair. The big shops do excellent work but don't often work on these little guys, so they were learning as they went.

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Old 08-01-2014, 06:10 PM   #31
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Name: Jack L
Trailer: Bigfoot B-17 CB
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Sarah, I suspect the repair shop may have a good solid reason for measuring the axle currently on your trailer because there is no way to know if that axle is the one that came with the trailer when it left the factory. It could have been changed years ago. If there were any modifications made after it left Scamp and an incorrect axle is ordered you would be stuck paying for it.

The shops request for measurements might just be because they know exactly what they are doing. The old saying measure twice' cut once could be modified to, measure twice order once. Special order parts are most likely not returnable.
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:57 PM   #32
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Name: Brian
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 13 Front Washroom, Little Guy Teardrop
Posts: 370
You could cart it to Casita in Rice.. They might be willing to work on it

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Old 08-01-2014, 07:00 PM   #33
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Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Posts: 159
Originally Posted by Briantb View Post
You could cart it to Casita in Rice.. They might be willing to work on it

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Casita is 5 1/2 hours away... not exactly close.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:00 PM   #34
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Redneck Trailer Supplies, locations in MULTIPLE locations, is almost a go-to supplier of Dexter axles, have you checked them out in Arlington, TX (don't know how close it is to you!) Redneck Trailer Supplies - Locations Details
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:33 PM   #35
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Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Posts: 159
It's less of a drive than Casita would be, but still a very long trip... at that point it's almost a wash between driving to get the axle and having one shipped to me.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:05 AM   #36
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
Posts: 2,074
After reading all these posts Sarah, your axle is way past gone. I'm kind of suprised that after the seller towed it that far to you that the glowing hubs didn't burn it down from being red hot. The axle is to me the second most important item on a trailer just after the tires. You need to bite the bullet and get it to a GOOD repair shop with a great reputation that do axles.
Distance doesn't matter, I'm 70 miles from a large grocery store, so I understand traveling distance. I'm a DIYfer but even after having over 100 vehicles of every type, I wouldn't even think of trying to figure out exactly which axle will work properly for my trailer especially being yours is older.
I've bought a couple cars over the years that bit me big time in repairs.
Sometimes you win, sometimes you loose, it's lifes learning expiriences.
Well, that's my two cents, now it's up to you.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:52 AM   #37
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Name: Pam
Trailer: U-Haul 1985
Posts: 3,096
The nice thing about getting a new axle is that you can have the trailer raised up a bit if you feel it rides too low. You'll have a better riding trailer, and comfort in the fact that you have a safe suspension system. While the trailer repair place is under there working on the axle, you can have them go over the frame, and also check the hardware that holds the trailer to your frame.
This is just a little bump in the road for you. (a little axle humor here haha). And when all is said and done, you'll still have a great little camper that will continue to hold its value much longer than today's new breed of laminated wall trailers.
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Old 08-02-2014, 12:33 PM   #38
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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Originally Posted by sarahspins View Post
Every place I have called so far has basically given me the "we don't work on RV's" line... I know I can order what I need directly from Dexter (as could anyone else) but them I am stuck paying for shipping. If I can get it through a distributor then I am not out that extra cost.
No need to tell them it's an RV. You only need a shop that is familiar with trailers and torsion axles. What is on top of the frame should make no difference to them.

You are going to pay for shipping, the price may be built in or added on, it just depends on where it is going to. The distributors get a bunch shipped at once.

I went to 1 distributor 4x before I finally got my axle. They would not order until they saw and measured it. Towed my trailer out and they would not crawl underneath, said to just give them the specs and I was responsible if it didn't fit. Second visit, I gave a deposit and provided measurements, had to fight with them not to get a flexride since they assembled them there. 3rd visit to pick up axle, got stuck behind an accident and got there 5 min after closing. Everyone including my axle was there. It was a union shop, need I say more. 4th visit and I finally got my axle.

If you have to measure your own, I put a lot of information together in my axle swap thread. Most get by with doing a straight swap, I chose to overengineer the design.
Replacing an Axle - leading arm to trailing arm
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:09 AM   #39
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Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
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You're missing the obvious source for the axle...scamp. I had mine 2-3 days after I called them, and it was right the first time. I would try them first. After that, any half competent welder can throw it on. I wouldn't necessarily trust the old axle for square. Mine wasn't. Granted, I couldn't have told you that before measuring.

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Old 08-03-2014, 07:21 AM   #40
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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I wouldn't let any "Half Competent Welder" do anything as critical as properly welding an axle in place. It's a simple job to do wrong, it's much more difficult to do right.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:57 AM   #41
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Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,394
Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
You're missing the obvious source for the axle...scamp. I had mine 2-3 days after I called them, and it was right the first time.
That's where I got mine for my old Scamp 16. May not have been the cheapest option (shipping from MN to FL was stiff) but it is the "right" axle and the no trouble, no re-engineering option.
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:07 AM   #42
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 2,866
Your paying for shipping no matter what, shop pays it then it gets added to the price BUT the axle alone without hubs ships FedEx or UPS (under weight limit) with the hubs on it goes over their weight limit and has to be shipped common carrier. Shop probably can order bare axle, and has hubs in quantity so shop might save you a little something on shipping.

MN is in a zone that tends to be pretty expensive for shipping but ordering from Scamp does eliminate the shop labor expense of measuring and push job into a simpler remove and replace welding operation. Wonder if scamp would fax order into axle company with your address for delivery, could make for cheaper shipping. You pay Scamp but the axle is shipped to your house or the shop. Makes no sense to pay shipping to Scamp in Minn. and then shipping to your location.

I would not go with "half decent" welder but this is not brain surgery either, if one is able to set the axle true to the center line of trailer frame, which is basically a measuring operation that has been around since the ancient Egyptians. And has the welding skills to build and repair trailers they should be acceptable.

One thing that might help is to show the shops pictures of the axle mount. Then if you can say to the shop you ordered the axle from or through the manufacturer what would they charge to remove this one in the picture and weld the same new one on. Known situation for remove and replace is better question to present than "replace axle on an old RV" because RV manufacturers have a lot more variation in design than a normal utility trailer. Lot more unknowns and potential complications that the shop might want to avoid.

I go back to something I mentioned earlier, portable welding services. Those tend to be welders with fairly high skill level (harder to work in the field than in a shop) and if you show them the picture of axle to be removed and have the new axle they may well take the job. May charge a bit more per hour but you do avoid the transport cost/hassle.

Small tip on taking the axle bracket picture go from both sides, and bottom. Zoom in some but leave yourself room for cropping to straighten the picture and cropping will zoom in on the detail. Might want to put shop light or two under trailer to avoid tendency of flash to wash out detail at close range.

Once you get through this unfortunate mess you will have an axle good for 10 - 20 years. If you keep the trailer that gives you value, if you sell the camper it has value. Big hassle now but it does have an upside on the other side.

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