Camper not really movable in current state - what to do? - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2014, 11:15 AM   #43
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Name: Roy
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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
I would not go with "half decent" welder but this is not brain surgery either, if one is able to set the axle true to the center line of trailer frame, which is basically a measuring operation that has been around since the ancient Egyptians. And has the welding skills to build and repair trailers they should be acceptable.
That is a good point. One should note that the frame is offset to the curbside of the body by about an inch. So don't flip out if your tires look like they are different distances from the body on either side.
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:12 PM   #44
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That is a good point. One should note that the frame is offset to the curbside of the body by about an inch. So don't flip out if your tires look like they are different distances from the body on either side.
The offset Roy mentions one of those "variations" that RV trailers have that utility trailers would generally not have. That type of variation is one reason shops tend to be reluctant to do RV trailers.

If they set it right the customer may think it's wrong, if they set it as "normal" for a trailer it will be wrong.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:13 AM   #45
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Camper not really movable in current state - what to do?

Once it's squared, it's about as basic welding as it gets. I'm a half competent welder, and my axle has made it thousands of miles, along with the new fifth wheel tongue I built. So have the semi frame, 2.5 ton truck frame, and 3/4 ton truck frame that we've lengthened.

Each to their own, if somebody is scared, they shouldn't do it.

By the way, check out factory scamp welds and fabricating before you get too picky...just saying. It certainly was no hot shot welder building my '84.

Squaring it up isn't hard, just takes a little time. Level the trailer with a digital level front to back, side to side. If it's a fifth wheel, drop a plumb bob from dead center on the pin, mark that spot on the cement, measure from there back to both sides of your axle, that's also leveled (which it should be if the brackets are right). If it's a tongue hitch, measure from the center of the coupler back.

Do NOT measure from the front if a frame rail, etc. There is nothing that says it's square (mine aren't).

P.s. Mine was off about 3/16" from the factory, now it's under 1/16". Back to the half-competent part...




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