Compact jr wheel not torque - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 02-09-2014, 01:18 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
The solution to the situation would be that all vehicles come with a preset torque wrench for that specific vehicle.
Since you don't own one, Darwin, you probably don't know how simple it is to adjust a torque wrench to whatever setting one's looking for.
They're also pretty cheap, depending on size....those sized for bigger bolts can get expensive, though. Which reminds me:

U-Haul's come up with a smart solution for insuring that the shankbolt on the hitch balls they sell is properly torqued.

Wrong torque is a common cause of trailer balls working loose, so they sell them with a sort of "sacrificial washer" that splits when the nut has been tightened down to the appropriate torque. You can see one at this link.

Pretty smart!

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Old 02-09-2014, 01:49 PM   #16
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Not only do I know how to use them, I actually have several, one for each size of socket and even used Torque Multipliers on Airplane Props. I also sell them and would be happy to sell you one should you want one. Harbor Freight also sells them and they are as low as $20 when they are on sale. I use them when I'm torquing cylinder heads and other precision items that are really critical when it comes to torquing bolts.

The Preset wrench that I said should come with every vehicle would be for the person that has to change their own tire and have absolutely no idea what a torque wrench or even how to spell torq rench.

If it was so important for vehicle lug nuts to be torqued to exact specifications then I'm sure the Department of Transportation would require the vehicle lug wrench to be a torque wrench.

All that said, I still tighten the lug nuts using my hands and still apply foot pressure and that has overwhelmingly work for over 50 years for me.

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Old 02-09-2014, 03:17 PM   #17
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How does that splitting washer work on the Uhaul ball. And how fussy does anyone think your average tire shop gets when installing wheels. Time is money, they just tighten the nuts with an air gun, if your lucky it has a torque stick on it but more likely not. On the four 1/2" drive air guns I have they all have different levels of maximum torque, and it also relates to the amount of air pressure feeding it. Should everyone torque their lug nuts after a shop has worked on their vehicle. What if they over tightened them, should we worry that they are stressed too much and will break. If they have been over tightened should the studs be replaced? My method, spin them on with an air gun, then final hand tighten doing every other one on a 5 lug wheel until done. Has anyone mentioned what pattern to tighten the nuts in, and should you tighten gradually or up to max right away. Funny how a simple thing can get complicated.
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:46 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
How does that splitting washer work on the Uhaul ball. .
Here quoting from the patent application:
Occasionally, insufficient torque is applied to the nut by the installer. When the nut is not tightened sufficiently, vibrations and jolts can cause the nut to back off the stem. In such cases the trailer ball, together with the trailer, can be jolted from the mounting platform causing the trailer to separate from the vehicle causing extensive damage to the trailer or other vehicles.

The present invention provides a trailer ball mounting assembly and method of installation, including a trailer ball, flat washer, and a clampload indication nut. The trailer ball has a threaded stem having an aperture extending diametrically at a distal end of the stem for receiving a cotter pin and the tension-indicating nut. The nut has a plastic collar which has an annular ring portion positioned between an annular surface of the nut and the flat washer. When the nut is tightened sufficiently, the annular ring is extruded radially outwardly from between the nut and the washer to indicate that proper tension has been applied. The cotter pin is then inserted in the bore of the stem. The method includes lubricating the threads of the stem before threading the nut and removing the extruded ring after tightening.

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Old 02-09-2014, 05:19 PM   #19
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The original poster asked a specific question. I believe somewhere buried in the back-and-forth re-statements of certain opinions is the answer he was looking for. The unnecessary repetition which violates the rules has earned this topic closure.

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