Compact jr wheel not torque - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-08-2014, 10:08 AM   #1
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Compact jr wheel not torque

oKAY, I HAD A RV COMPANY PULL ALL THE OLD BEARINGS/RACES/SEALS AND INSTALL NEW ONES. I HAVE INSTALLED THEM ALL BUT NOW....HOW MUCH DO I TORQUE THE WHEEL LUG NUTS...I "DO" HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH AND AM READY TO DO THAT NOW. WHAT DO I DO NOW? TOM J
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:25 AM   #2
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Common passenger car/light truck values are in the 80-100 ft/lb. range

You could also contact Arrow Trailer Repair in Ontario, CA
* (Arrow Trailer Supplies, Inc. - Ontario, CA) Axle Parts Department
and ask the trailer chassis dept for a recommendation.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:25 PM   #3
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Bolt torque is mainly determined by bolt grade/size/thread count.

Here's a link to one of many charts giving specs: Link

Note:

Most wheel studs are grade 8.
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:44 PM   #4
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I just make them really tight using the lug nut wrench. Been doing this for over 50 years on everything I drive or tow and have yet to have a problem. Just Sayin.
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:34 PM   #5
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Torqueing bolts is cheap insurance, in my opinion. Certainly the following incident reported here recently would have been prevented by use of a torque wrench:

Quote:
Originally Posted by marianb View Post
On the way home, on Highway 17, doing 55 around a turn, the left wheel flew off, crossed the meridian, and flew thru oncoming traffic. Luckily, no one was injured or worse. We made it safely to a turn out and trailer is of course damaged. Could have been so much worse. We discovered the lugnuts on the right tire were only finger tight.
source

Per that "finger tight" business:
Trailer lug nuts, especially on aluminum wheels, are notoriously vulnerable to loosening. The "finger tights" on the remaining wheel may only indicate that someone had "winged it" with a wrench at the factory, both wheels loosened up on the trip, and the left one just fell off first. Many experts recommend checking trailer lug nuts for torque every five hundred miles or so.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:37 PM   #6
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Talking

I said: I just make them really tight using the lug nut wrench. Been doing this for over 50 years on everything I drive or tow and have yet to have a problem. Just Sayin.

I need to add: When I tighten - I tighten with both the hand and foot. (Foot pound torque) And I always check the camper prior to departure.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
I said: I just make them really tight using the lug nut wrench. Been doing this for over 50 years on everything I drive or tow and have yet to have a problem. Just Sayin.

I need to add: When I tighten - I tighten with both the hand and foot. (Foot pound torque) And I always check the camper prior to departure.

It's good to see another old guy whose been towing for ever uses the common sense foot torque method.

Give it a stomp and don't worry.

John
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
I said: I just make them really tight using the lug nut wrench. Been doing this for over 50 years on everything I drive or tow and have yet to have a problem. Just Sayin.



I need to add: When I tighten - I tighten with both the hand and foot. (Foot pound torque) And I always check the camper prior to departure.

It should be noted that over torquing can be as harmful as under torquing. If one wants to be absolutely sure that lug nuts are properly torqued, a calibrated torque wrench is a necessity.
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:21 PM   #9
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Like I Said:
Been doing this for over 50 years on everything I drive or tow and have yet to have a problem. Just Sayin.


It appears that if you don't use a torte wrench and do it to the specified specifications for the wheel you are installing, you will offend people on this blog.
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Like I Said:
Been doing this for over 50 years on everything I drive or tow and have yet to have a problem. Just Sayin.


It appears that if you don't use a torte wrench and do it to the specified specifications for the wheel you are installing, you will offend people on this blog.
I can't speak for Darin, but I was not offended.
My point was some of the over engineered, over thought advice may give newbies more to worry about than is necessary.

I'm 71 and have been continually towing recreational something's, including TTs, stock trailers, MC & ATV trailers and boat trailers since my early twenties.
I have 3 towable's now. Two of which are used all of the time.
I just put new tires and wheels on my ATV trailer and ATV. Before the weather warms up I will be putting new tires on my sail boat trailer without the aid of a torque wrench.

I have never lost a wheel or a wheel bearing.

No offense taken or intended.

John
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:33 PM   #11
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Cutting corners works until it doesn't work.

I prefer to slant the odds in my favor rather than count on the Luck of the Draw that's perhaps favored me for however many years.
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:24 PM   #12
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Maybe a person using a torque wrench is unsure of their strength, and is more conceerned with breaking the stud than with it not being tight enough.

Exact torque might be more critical for alloy wheels than steel wheels, but periodically checking wheel nuts for tightness is critical for both.....

And reducing the odds is always a good idea......
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post


It appears that if you don't use a torte wrench and do it to the specified specifications for the wheel you are installing, you will offend people on this blog.
"Doing it to the specific specifications" requires that
a) One knows what those specs are
and
b) One has a means of measuring them.

If anyone's offended, it's probably the O.P., who posted a simple question that some choose to answer by effectively dismissing it as "non-manly" or something.
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:51 PM   #14
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The solution to the situation would be that all vehicles come with a preset torque wrench for that specific vehicle.
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