Cost of a new hitch? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-06-2012, 11:39 AM   #15
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I don't hurt my shins, I usually just get my pant leg greasy.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:17 PM   #16
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Aaahhh yes!

Got the hitch today at UHaul (thanks for the suggestion!), and managed to get out of there for under $300. That's less that 1/4 the price I was quoted by the dealership. Makes me want to stear clear of that dealership. I should call them and tell them what I paid and see what they say...
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:54 PM   #17
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It's no wonder some people refer to them as "stealerships."
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:31 PM   #18
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I installed the works for my "05" Ody, bought purchased all etrailer free shipping, I did own the brake controller all the rest included, the hitch, single bar weight distribution, wiring, stinger & ball all self installed, the after market Power steering and tranny cooler were added by a local mechanic along with the wiring for the brake controller. Honda's factory installed coolers were not up to the task. Total price for tow setup was about $1500.00 After 55,000 miles towing we no longer tow with the Ody, it is a great vehicle but we were putting so much money into repairs from towing, we bought a used pick up more suitable to the task. As a side note Uhaul will only install items you buy from them. We have used their equipment and service on other vehicles and they do fine work
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:11 PM   #19
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Anne, make sure you get a locking pin for the removeable ball hitch.
It's easy to steal if you leave it.
John
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:55 PM   #20
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Talking Lots to learn

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Anne, make sure you get a locking pin for the removeable ball hitch.
It's easy to steal if you leave it.
John

Thanks--I will do that. I have a feeling there are going to be lots of new gizmos and gadgets in our future as we get set up for camping.
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:53 PM   #21
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Anne, make sure you get a locking pin for the removeable ball hitch.
It's easy to steal if you leave it.
John
Even more important than theft is the prankster who might just remove the clip or the pin!
Lock it... but be sure and lube the lock regularly or you may need to cut it off.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:40 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by ams56 View Post
Got the hitch today at UHaul (thanks for the suggestion!), and managed to get out of there for under $300. That's less that 1/4 the price I was quoted by the dealership. Makes me want to stear clear of that dealership. I should call them and tell them what I paid and see what they say...
You do realize you only have half the job completed. There is still the cooling for the transmission and steering. See post #6. Also you need to verify that U-Haul ran an auxiliary line from the engine to the rear electrical connection so that you have 12 volts running to your rig when hooked up.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:53 AM   #23
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You do realize you only have half the job completed. There is still the cooling for the transmission and steering. See post #6. Also you need to verify that U-Haul ran an auxiliary line from the engine to the rear electrical connection so that you have 12 volts running to your rig when hooked up.
There is definately an electrical hookup. I assumed it was for the brake lights. Is there another one I need as well?

We are holding off on the coolers for now since our first year out we are going to be very local. We won't take any extended trips until my husband retires in a few years.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:26 AM   #24
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If you have a flat, 4-pin, electrical connector, that will only have the tail, brake and turn lights on it. A larger, round, 7 pin connector will have provision for additional wires for the trailers brakes, a charging line to charge the trailers battery while you are driving, and a wire for the trailers backup lights. In some cases the latter 2-3 wires are carried on a seperate connector. The trailer brakes will also require some sort of a brake controller. Even if U-Haul did install a 7 pin connector, I doubt if they also installed the latter items as they require additional wiring beyond the usual plug in cables/adaptors for lights.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:14 AM   #25
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If you have a flat, 4-pin, electrical connector, that will only have the tail, brake and turn lights on it. A larger, round, 7 pin connector will have provision for additional wires for the trailers brakes, a charging line to charge the trailers battery while you are driving, and a wire for the trailers backup lights. In some cases the latter 2-3 wires are carried on a seperate connector. The trailer brakes will also require some sort of a brake controller. Even if U-Haul did install a 7 pin connector, I doubt if they also installed the latter items as they require additional wiring beyond the usual plug in cables/adaptors for lights.
The technician did mention about probably needing the other connector for the brakes. Are trailer brakes a requirement--or just a good idea to have? We are doing this a step at a time.

We are going to look at a few local Casitas this weekend to be sure that is what we want. If we order new, we will have a little time to get everything worked out. Finding a used one seems like a nailing jello to the wall...
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:29 AM   #26
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You will need to check with Va DMV re: trailer brakes, but for safety's sake you should have them and most Casita's will have them.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:36 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ams56

The technician did mention about probably needing the other connector for the brakes. Are trailer brakes a requirement--or just a good idea to have? We are doing this a step at a time.

We are going to look at a few local Casitas this weekend to be sure that is what we want. If we order new, we will have a little time to get everything worked out. Finding a used one seems like a nailing jello to the wall...
Here in MD, trailers over 3,000 pounds are required to have brakes. I don't know about VA, but they're not a bad idea. First, the trailer will need to be equipped with brakes. If it is not, you can probably have them added on for a few hundred bucks. Next, you will need a brake controller mounted in your car (about the size and shape of a radar detector), along with the proper wiring and hookups. A nice controller will run you $100-150. Make sure you get a 'proportional' controller, NOT a 'time delay' one. Two of the nicest ones are the Tekonsha Prodigy 2 and the P3. These will provide smooth secure stops.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:42 AM   #28
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Anne, Chances are that if uhaul didn't try to sell you a brake control or the 7 pin connector you are not wired for a 7 pin hitch. Ihave run over these threads looing for your tow vehicle and the trailer size you are buying, however, a brake controller is essential for safety. i think it would be safe to say that if the trailer you buy has brakes you will need a controller and I know the Casita 16' and 17'ers both have brakes installed at the factory.

This next part may be a bit confusing and maybe need not be said for now, I'll just give you a heads up. The charge wire is really just used to charge the battery between stops where you don't have electric hookups. Without the factory tow pkg on your tow vehicle you don't have an alternator thats strong enough to use the vehicle to run the fridge on the electrical system, most of us tow with the fridge on propane. Now with that being said, if you choose to have the charge wire hooked up, have them install an isolator in the line that will protect the vehicle battery from getting run down while your having breakfast at the local greasy spoon or another kind of pit stop
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