Crack on T4500 axle and tire question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-04-2014, 03:50 PM   #15
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,710
Originally Posted by Tyhee View Post
Hi Carol, understand your advice. To clarify: we would not be rolling into the LM for quite awhile... likely fall and will phone well in advance to order the right axle, book time for labour etc. Am going to just focus on getting new tires so we can safely use the trailer on local trips around here and have some fun with it.
if your axle is shoot then its a good bet that will eat tires up fast - so don't go buying good $$ tires as they probable will be unusable by next year due to uneven wear caused by the axle.

Keep in mind that there are lots of us that have logged lots of miles using simple plain jane ST tires without a problem for years

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Old 06-05-2014, 05:43 PM   #16
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Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Posts: 1,610
Personally, I would dress the crack, wrap a soaking wet rag around the other end, and slowly stitch weld it back together 1/2" or so at a time, letting it completely cool between welds.

That's not to say I wouldn't replace it, but if you want to hold off until fall, at least it would still be there.

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Old 06-06-2014, 08:27 AM   #17
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Name: John
Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
British Columbia
Posts: 116
Thanks everyone. Roy, thanks for digging up that old thread from MA I read that thoroughly as well as your boler axle replacement thread. Great information!!! I'll put up a pic of the spindle position unweighted. When fiddling around (2 new Carlisle tires) I noticed one wheel bearing is sloppy so will pull and examine. Process of elimination right

After looking at the threads Roy provided, I will have a close look for camber problems. The old (car) tires that came off are unevenly worn for sure so indicating negative camber problem. The crack I mentioned I think will not lead to the axle falling out as it is held in completely surrounded by steel plate. I'm thinking due to basically no axle travel movement it may may caused these stress cracks? Anyways, one thing for sure new axle due, sooner the better.

I did not have any choice really for new tires using my 13" rims so I went with the 175 80 13 st they had them in stock. They tried to convince me I did not need to have them balanced so I said fine was not up for an argument - so then went to a friends shop and balanced them. Will buy a 3rd for the spare when some extra cash allows. After getting axle upgraded to a #10 then I will start to look for some nice 14" (ranger) rims. If anyone spots a set in a wrecker in bc please let me know.
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:17 AM   #18
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Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,394
Originally Posted by Tyhee View Post
They tried to convince me I did not need to have them balanced so I said fine was not up for an argument - so then went to a friends shop and balanced them.
My tire guy gladly (for $5 each) balanced the new tires & rims for my Scamp. But when asked he said he never balances his own and a lot of people don't bother. I actually have never bothered for my utility trailers either, but I am not planning on heading out on the Interstate long distances with them. For those that would not balance I ask this question: if not the trailer tires/rims, then why balance your truck tires/rims that are going on the same roads at the same speeds? Is it OK to beat and shake your trailer to pieces but not the Tug? Seeing how much lead he had to hang on my rims convinced me it was worthwhile to balance them.
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Old 06-06-2014, 07:21 PM   #19
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Name: John
Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
British Columbia
Posts: 116
Yeah I hear you TW. If tolerances are that much more important on a small tire / rim / bearing why take the chance. ? Btw the orig tire shop wanted $23 plus tax to balance EACH wheel!!!!! So 5$ Sounds ridiculous cheap.

If your cruising on hwy at 100 km or 60 miles hr on bigger wheels on the tug how many more rpms are the little tires doing? .....

....a lot!!!!!
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:02 AM   #20
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The weld crack in that first photo is fascinating - it's not where I would expect to see a crack start. If it's just on the top weld, then it certainly does not seem an immediate risk - if it goes all the way around the axle tube, it's a bit more serious!

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