Dead tounge lift. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-16-2013, 08:46 PM   #1
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Dead tounge lift.

I had just dropped the hitch on the ball and hit the UP switch to pull up the base. Dead. Very, very, dead. So I took it all apart and pulled it off the tongue. Tomorrow I replace it with a manual crank. *sigh*
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:27 AM   #2
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But wait... there's more. The trailer place found that are brakes are falling apart. Oh well. Better to find out now than half way down to New Orleans in a couple of weeks, eh? Waiting to find out what other wonderful things are discovered.
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:41 AM   #3
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I had just dropped the hitch on the ball and hit the UP switch to pull up the base. Dead. Very, very, dead. So I took it all apart and pulled it off the tongue. Tomorrow I replace it with a manual crank. *sigh*
--------------------------------------------
It may be to late, but did you verify that there was 12VDC at the motor wire?????
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:48 AM   #4
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Yup. I did "due diligence" before I yanked the beast. I checked voltages at all appropriate points, and then bypassed the switch and did a direct connection. On further thought, even if the motor WAS good having a mission-critical part rely on something that might fail in the middle of nowhere (ie. battery) is not a good idea. I suppose that if I was somewhere and it all had crapped out I could have done just what I did...pull the unit. I've now eliminated that source of possible error.

I guess what I've learned after a year and a couple of months is what to worry about, and what not to worry about.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:09 PM   #5
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I have a hand crank top winder on our Scamp. I removed the crank handle and welded a 3/4" nut to the top. I use my electric drill to raise/lower the tongue, and if the drill should fail, I can use a ratchet or a hand crank to manually do the job.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:19 PM   #6
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I have a hand crank top winder on our Scamp. I removed the crank handle and welded a 3/4" nut to the top. I use my electric drill to raise/lower the tongue, and if the drill should fail, I can use a ratchet or a hand crank to manually do the job.
I was thinking of doing something similar.
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:23 PM   #7
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I suppose that if I was somewhere and it all had crapped out I could have done just what I did...pull the unit.
I thought that even in unmodified form, all of these power jacks had a hand crank just for this purpose... no need to pull the unit for any kind of power or motor failure.

Even the cheapest power A-frame jack at eTrailer (MaxxTow Electric Trailer Jack - A-Frame - 18" Lift - 3,500 lbs MaxxTow Trailer Jack MT70147) lists
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Manual override handle included in case of power failure
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:30 PM   #8
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Nope. No auxiliary crank. Bummer.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:07 PM   #9
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Nope. No auxiliary crank. Bummer.
Well, at least you do have the option of replacing it with a power jack which does have a manual override, so you can have both power and reliability... if the power feature is of value to you.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:45 PM   #10
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My trailer came with a power jack..that works! I never thought I would go out of my way to install one before..but if this one shuffles off this mortal coil, I most certainly will replace it. I never want to Crank Crank Crank again..

Mine is ancient, but it has an emergency hand crank on it. I have the manufacturers tool, but it looks like a good socket and bar would work just as well.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:46 AM   #11
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Just used the crank. No Big Deal. Hey, my sweetie says I need to exercise!
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