Dexter axle question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-20-2007, 07:05 AM   #15
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Your are correct when you say the brackets would be toward the front now. Mounting the axle bracket should be on the rectangle frame rail. I will be ordering the same setup that you have, but will not be installing until May. If you install yours before May, please send me some photos of your install.(or post them here)
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Old 12-20-2007, 01:24 PM   #16
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A Dexter Torflex bracket extends further than the arm, slightly past the axle centreline: with leading arms this means slightly ahead of the centreline; with trailing arms this means slightly behind the centreline. Doesn't this mean that the frame at the centreline area must be level with the (higher) rear frame section, and a filler (an additional bit of tubing) would be required to support the end of the bracket?

Quick sketches of leading (original) and trailing (proposed) mountings, with the filler in grey:

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Name:	trailing.JPG
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ID:	11153

(yes, I realize that the illustrated Torflex axle has a 22.5 degree down starting angle, and the existing one likely has an up starting angle, and is collapsing as well; also the drawing is not to scale)
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Old 12-20-2007, 02:00 PM   #17
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Very good point made. I will have to wait until spring, to see, if I have to add some material to the original frame, to support the new axle bracket location.
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:30 PM   #18
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Well, I still have not installed it because I'm undecided as to how high I want the trailer to sit. Mine is also a leading arm setup and to turn it around to be a trailing arm system, I would have to "fill" in the spot where the current axle sits with small sections of rectangle tube so that the axle brackets had something to sit on ( I think ). Right now my axle is drooping so low that the axle spindle is probably at a 30 degree up angle and of course I ordered it with a 22-1/2 down which would create a "big" lift as it is. So I may just go back with the original setup which of course would be much easier, less work and not too much lift. But being as I would like to take the trailer off highway, I may just need to lift it anyway. We'll see.
Check with Scamp to see whether your original axle used high profile bracket, plus get the rest of the options that are possible, using your VIN or model year. You can also get the original build specs for your particular axle by getting the serial number from the axle tag or stencil and calling the Dexter plant that made it. Not only is there a choice between high and standard bracket, but between inboard and outboard and between standard and reverse. In addition to the hub-hub distance you need the bracket-bracket distance....

There should be some info on Yahoo Scampers on installing a trailing axle as a replacement for a leading axle. Also some info there in the Files and Links Sections.

As far as trailer height goes, for highway towing of a trailer, the better the trailer underside matches the tow vehicle underside, the less air-dam will occur. The increased height doesn't seem to matter much because the shape is somewhat aerodynamic. OTOH, the COG will be higher, so you have to ensure that loaded weight is kept low. Now is a good time to consider welding a spacer between the frame and bracket.

A welding grinder is a good tool for axle removal as one can just grind out the previous welds.

I would suggest using the optional side-mount bracket (weld it on then bolt axle to it).

The problem Scamp has seems to be limited to the use of Al-Ko axles on the Scamp 19', where the brackets have a wrong orientation (and distance?), so the frame doesn't sit on them properly.
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