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Old 01-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #15
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Name: Eddie
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Derek
Did you order the bolt on bracket option for the axle? If you use the bolt on brackets they should more than make up for the 1/4" difference when the bracket is welded to the frame.
Eddie
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:00 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
My frame has a flat metal plate welded where the axle goes. The plate was equal in size to the bottom side of the old axle. From what I can see in the pictures in the other thread, the axle bracket overhangs the side of the frame. The overhang seems to be what makes these axle brackets fail. By matching these two metal pieces up against each other (like in my situation), has the problem been eliminated?
It has at least been reduced, although a simple flat plate is not a very effective structure for this purpose.

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Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
I also notice that this seems to be a problem on the 16' to 19' trailers. These rigs are heavier, and therefore put more forces against the axle brackets. Perhaps this is less a concern on a 13' trailer?
It was a problem on those trailers because those are the ones that Scamp messed up... but I agree that it is at least less of a concern with a lighter trailer, particularly if the brackets are all the same thicknesses and strength for every axle capacity range.

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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
Did you order the bolt on bracket option for the axle? If you use the bolt on brackets they should more than make up for the 1/4" difference when the bracket is welded to the frame.
Eddie
How? The bolt-on brackets (also known as side hangers) are in addition to the welded-on brackets visible in the photos, so they would only shim the axle down a bit, which would not keep the axle's brackets from interfering with the dropped frame section between them.

The additional hangers would serve as additional reinforcement to reduce the problem with the overhanging brackets (like a better version of the plate described above because the wrap around the side of the axle brackets), but at the same time they would presumably prevent a change to brackets flipped around the right way, because the bolts need to be toward the outside to clear the dropped frame section.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:06 AM   #17
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I went with a different trailer...
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:58 PM   #18
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Good News!

I contacted the dealer. They reviewed their paperwork, and see that their measurements are indeed out by 1/4". They have agreed to replace the axle at their expense.

Looking at the error axle, and I am questioning their axle angle. Its possible they have this correct. How would they know if old the axle is sagging badly? If all they have is an old axle, what do they base their measurement on? What is the correct measurement?

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Old 01-02-2013, 09:02 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
The additional hangers would serve as additional reinforcement to reduce the problem with the overhanging brackets (like a better version of the plate described above because the wrap around the side of the axle brackets), but at the same time they would presumably prevent a change to brackets flipped around the right way, because the bolts need to be toward the outside to clear the dropped frame section.
It sounds like this is really a frame problem, not an axle problem. The problem is that the frame needs to beefed up where the axle is attached. Or is there something the axle manufacturer should be doing here to eliminate the problem?

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Derek
Did you order the bolt on bracket option for the axle? If you use the bolt on brackets they should more than make up for the 1/4" difference when the bracket is welded to the frame.
Eddie
The old axle was bolt on. When the axle was ordered, they put a bracket on the new axle that was supposed to line up with the old one. The plan was to bolt the new axle onto the old brackets. The new axle bracket was U shaped, and the space between the two brackets was smaller then the space between the two bars on the frame.

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Old 01-02-2013, 09:27 PM   #20
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If by "sagging" they mean it's bent:

Determining axle "sag" might be a matter of measurement- one would think they'd be able to tell if it's bent. I certainly can't tell you what correct measurements might be...maybe someone else will chime in.

I'm beginning to think that you'd have been better off hauling the whole trailer down there so they could have taken measurement etc while the axle was still on the trailer. That might have given them a more complete picture before ordering...

Hope this next one works!

Francesca
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:34 PM   #21
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If by "sagging" they mean it's bent:
To clarify, my trailer looked like a "low rider" because the trailer was sitting too low to the ground. Isn't this sag? It also bounced like crazy when towed. This is why the axle is being replaced.

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Old 01-02-2013, 10:24 PM   #22
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I thought you said that the axle guys had made the "bent axle" assessment, based on their evaluation of the axle.

I can't opine as to whether your trailer was bad-axle low since I'm unfamiliar with both your trailer and what an off-the-rack '73 Boler looked like, ground clearance-wise...

Francesca
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:45 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
Looking at the error axle, and I am questioning their axle angle. Its possible they have this correct. How would they know if old the axle is sagging badly? If all they have is an old axle, what do they base their measurement on?
Someone who is familiar with Dexter Torflex axles can see the "start angle" in a few seconds by just looking at the pivot end of the arm - you can see the position of the arm relative to the square bar which goes through it. The Dexter Axle application guide shows this in drawings.

If the arm no longer sits near the start angle when not under load, the rubber is shot.

If the change from low-profile to high-profile brackets was not requested, then that's another error in the new axle. If more ground clearance is desired, then the higher brackets would be good.
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