Draw Bar Not Tight - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-24-2012, 10:44 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Name: Craig
Trailer: U-Haul
South Eastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 101
I have been eying this one up: StowAway Hitch Tightener

Seems very simple. Anyone have any experience with it?

Craig T.
__________________

__________________
Craig D. Thompson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2012, 08:32 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,434
I guess I'm just different. I don't mind the slop, but I drive a truck and don't hear the noise. I find when it's time to unhitch the trailer, the grease on the ball has caused the spoon to create a bit of a "vacuum." Rather than jack the trailer up a bunch, I just stomp on the draw bar and the trailer pops off the ball. Works for me!
__________________

__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 02:43 PM   #17
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I find when it's time to unhitch the trailer, the grease on the ball has caused the spoon to create a bit of a "vacuum." Rather than jack the trailer up a bunch, I just stomp on the draw bar and the trailer pops off the ball. Works for me!
Mine sticks once in a while. Makes for a rather dramatic moment.
__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2012, 11:30 AM   #18
Member
 
Trailer: 2002 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe / 2002 Ford Explorer 4X4
Posts: 56
Quitehitch

This was my answer to the loose ball mount.

Quiethitch The Silence Speaks For Itself

Nothing to fall out, no nuts to tighten/loosen, etc.

Simple to use, USA made, quality device and design.
__________________
Elvin Lowe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2012, 06:35 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 4,954
I've got something that shows up on etrailer.com but not in their products. I think it was made by Reese, less than $20. A simple square that goes around your tube with a single bolt that applies pressure to your reciever. Solved the problem.

Something like this but not quite. Been working for 65 years.
__________________
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2012, 10:12 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
I drilled a couple of holes in the receiver and threaded them 3/8" NC. and installed short bolts to snug thing up. It has worked well so far. No clunking..
Russ
__________________
ruscal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2012, 06:00 AM   #21
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,070
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
I drilled a couple of holes in the receiver and threaded them 3/8" NC. and installed short bolts to snug thing up. It has worked well so far. No clunking..
Russ
I like your solution and was going to do the same thing but was concerned with the consequences of having the bolts rust in place. Raz
__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2012, 07:20 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,333
use some anti-seize on the bolts. I've found that some receiver bike racks have a threaded insert in them to keep them tight, and I've made some myself by welding a 5/8" nut to a piece of flat steel and inserting it into the racks' tube. And if you'd like we could start a whole other discussion about leaving the ball mount in all the time so that it rusts in place or for unwary people to bust their shins on it. That became quite a heated discussion on another trailer forum.
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2012, 07:27 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
use some anti-seize on the bolts. .......
Plus one on anti-seize - good stuff. I also use it on my aluminum wheels so I don't need a sledge hammer to get them off the hubs. You can also buy stainless steel bolts at the big box stores - usually in special drawers at inflated prices.
__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2012, 07:54 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
Anti seize on SS bolts would keep things looking good and not seize.
Another thing I didn't mention is that I drilled the bolt holes off-center right near the corner radius on the tube so the bolt wouldn't deform the draw bar tube by pushing mid span. Don't go crazy tight with the bolts to avoid damage.
Russ
__________________
ruscal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 11:29 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
LukeP's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1972 13 ft Boler American
Iowa
Posts: 261
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcbrew

I use the Roadmaster one (Jim,s second link above) and really like it. I have used three or four different types, and that one is the best I've used (on a 2" hitch).
Ditto. I use the 2nd one linked too. I flip it over tho so it pulls the drawbar down to tighten, instead of the way its pictured.
__________________
LukeP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2012, 11:28 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
charliej's Avatar
 
Name: Charlie
Trailer: 2010 Casita 17 'Spirit Deluxe
California
Posts: 110
The Stow away hitch tightener works perfectly! It really cinches down the drawbar. I also put one on my bike rack. I would highly recommend it.
__________________
charliej is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 08:32 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Radar1's Avatar
 
Name: Dave (and/or John)
Trailer: Scamp 16 SD std layout 6
Georgia
Posts: 767
Registry
Another option

I use a car "lift spring" clamp. It has a U shaped piece with a flat piece that can be tightened on the drawbar to cinch it tight. Available at auto parts stores or Tractor supply.
Attached Thumbnails
DSCF2537 (600 x 450).jpg  
__________________

__________________
John-Dave and Marilyn
Sharpsburg, GA
04 Dodge Dakota V-8 and 17 Dodge Durango V-6
radar1-scamping.blogspot.com
Radar1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Inverters and Power Draw honda03842 Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 27 11-16-2011 12:16 AM
amp draw Dan B Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 18 05-30-2008 08:50 AM
Any Draw On my Battery? Gerry Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 8 08-17-2007 05:03 PM
Round Bar vs. Trunion Mount Flat Bar WDH ? bobinyelm Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 11 07-06-2007 09:43 PM
fridge draw colin k Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 24 03-30-2006 10:03 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.