Draw Bar Not Tight - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-23-2012, 09:11 AM   #1
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Name: Jim
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Smile Draw Bar Not Tight

My RV dealer, after seeing my trailer hook up, sold me an extension to the draw bar and as well as a 6 inch rise draw bar that fits into it. I can actually move the draw bar when it is not hooked up to the trailer as it is not really that tight and has a bit of movement. Of course I can feel this when towing. Can I put some kind of shim into the two draw bars to make it tighter. They are both Reese draw bars and of good quality. The reason for the extension, is that the receiver is far back of the bumper and the draw bar did not come out far enough. This is a great forum and for a newbie very helpful. Thanks for all the information I have received so far. Jim
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:38 AM   #2
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I've seen a mechanism from some internet seller for taking up play between the stinger and receiver. IIRC, it looked something like a U-bolt but I can't find it. Yours is complicated because of play between extension and receiver and extension and stinger. At first examination, it would seem to me that somewhere someone is making a stinger with a longer tube but I haven't seen it. I think it's going to be awkward to get shims between extension and receiver if you do it repeatedly but here goes. I tried a single layer rubber cut from a mt. bike innertube (the "Calamari" method). Finally (after applying talcum powder), worked the stinger tube into the receiver and pinned but wasn't workable for frequent removal and replacement. I also tried rectangles of rubber cut from the top of an old pac boot. The thickness was such that could only shim on two adjacent sides and was again tedious to do repeatedly. Best I've tried is strips cut from a 1 gallon milk jug and stuck in as far as they'll penetrate after the stinger is in and pinned. Probably steel shim stock might also work. I've seen wood wedges mentioned. They'd have to be hard and very thin; softwood wedge or a shim shingle would compress and disintegrate pretty quickly even if you could drive them in a fair distance. I don't know if anyone has ever tried a light weld bead as a takeup; maybe someone else may know. I think what most do is learn to ignore the noise. The first day you tow is the day you're listening for every little thing. Later on (aobut 6 hrs. later), so long as the donkey is still back there, you won't even notice.

jack
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:38 AM   #3
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Go back to the dealer.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:44 AM   #4
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There are many types of anti-rattle devices to use with to tighten your hitch in the reciever. If you go to a hitch shop they should have a few different types. I finally bought one a while ago, and can't believe I put up with that clunking as long as I did.

I have THIS one, which works great, but it is a bit tight now getting my chains hooked up on the lock side, but not that bad. In hindsight I think I might have gone with THIS type. Either one should work, even with an extender, I would think.
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:05 AM   #5
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here is another one
Hitch-Vise Fit Guide for 2.5 inch factory and aftermarket hitches
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:33 AM   #6
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When we switched from a pickup to a Subaru the draw bar noise became much more obvious. I shimmed things with two pieces of sheet metal which helped some but did not eliminate the noise. Long term, an anti rattle device like the ones mentioned is probably a much better fix. Raz
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:37 AM   #7
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I'm curious why the dealer thought it necessary to use an extension. As for an anti-rattle device I know etrailer sells them, also Amazon I think, and I made one for myself. They seem to be kind of expensive for what they are. A while back I think someone put a photo of one on here that they bought , but it looked like it was pulling the ball mount up, I set mine up to pull it down as it would be with weight on it when hooked to the trailer ????
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:50 AM   #8
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Draw Bar Not Tight

I use the Hitch Vice, and would recommend it to anyone. It's very easy to use and it works.
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:09 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
When we switched from a pickup to a Subaru the draw bar noise became much more obvious. I shimmed things with two pieces of sheet metal which helped some but did not eliminate the noise. Long term, an anti rattle device like the ones mentioned is probably a much better fix. Raz*
I shimmed mine with 2 pieces of heavy plastic from a discarded snow sled .
I also use a hitch extension so I can lower my trucks tailgate and not have the tailgate hit the hitch
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:24 PM   #10
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I like Jack use a piece of Mt. bike inner tube. Quick fix that works for the most part but a problem if you take the draw bar off often - put mine on and leave it on unless I Know am not going to use it for a couple of months.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
There are many types of anti-rattle devices to use with to tighten your hitch in the reciever. If you go to a hitch shop they should have a few different types. I finally bought one a while ago, and can't believe I put up with that clunking as long as I did.

I have THIS one, which works great, but it is a bit tight now getting my chains hooked up on the lock side, but not that bad. In hindsight I think I might have gone with THIS type. Either one should work, even with an extender, I would think.
I use the Roadmaster one (Jim,s second link above) and really like it. I have used three or four different types, and that one is the best I've used (on a 2" hitch).
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:53 PM   #12
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Hack Saw Blades

Buy a cheap packages of hack saw blades, push them in as far as they go, break them off and do it again. The downside is they will rust quickly.
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:32 AM   #13
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I've had one noisy receiver.
I drilled a hole slightly larger than a 1/2 inch bolt in the side of the receiver and welded a 1/2 inch nut over the hole.
A 1/2 inch bolt stopped all the noise when it was tightened against the draw bar.

John
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:42 AM   #14
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I tried shims (they fell out) and a cheap U-bolt (wouldn't stay tight). Then I bought a Hitch Vise model HT-3. It's great. Rock solid.

Hitch-Vise Fit Guide: Toyota Hitches
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