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09-23-2012, 08:11 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: Bigfoot 1981 Trailer
British Columbia
Posts: 189
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Draw Bar Not Tight
My RV dealer, after seeing my trailer hook up, sold me an extension to the draw bar and as well as a 6 inch rise draw bar that fits into it. I can actually move the draw bar when it is not hooked up to the trailer as it is not really that tight and has a bit of movement. Of course I can feel this when towing. Can I put some kind of shim into the two draw bars to make it tighter. They are both Reese draw bars and of good quality. The reason for the extension, is that the receiver is far back of the bumper and the draw bar did not come out far enough. This is a great forum and for a newbie very helpful. Thanks for all the information I have received so far. Jim
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09-23-2012, 08:38 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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I've seen a mechanism from some internet seller for taking up play between the stinger and receiver. IIRC, it looked something like a U-bolt but I can't find it. Yours is complicated because of play between extension and receiver and extension and stinger. At first examination, it would seem to me that somewhere someone is making a stinger with a longer tube but I haven't seen it. I think it's going to be awkward to get shims between extension and receiver if you do it repeatedly but here goes. I tried a single layer rubber cut from a mt. bike innertube (the "Calamari" method). Finally (after applying talcum powder), worked the stinger tube into the receiver and pinned but wasn't workable for frequent removal and replacement. I also tried rectangles of rubber cut from the top of an old pac boot. The thickness was such that could only shim on two adjacent sides and was again tedious to do repeatedly. Best I've tried is strips cut from a 1 gallon milk jug and stuck in as far as they'll penetrate after the stinger is in and pinned. Probably steel shim stock might also work. I've seen wood wedges mentioned. They'd have to be hard and very thin; softwood wedge or a shim shingle would compress and disintegrate pretty quickly even if you could drive them in a fair distance. I don't know if anyone has ever tried a light weld bead as a takeup; maybe someone else may know. I think what most do is learn to ignore the noise. The first day you tow is the day you're listening for every little thing. Later on (aobut 6 hrs. later), so long as the donkey is still back there, you won't even notice.
jack
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09-23-2012, 08:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Go back to the dealer.
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09-23-2012, 08:44 AM
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#4
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,230
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There are many types of anti-rattle devices to use with to tighten your hitch in the reciever. If you go to a hitch shop they should have a few different types. I finally bought one a while ago, and can't believe I put up with that clunking as long as I did.
I have THIS one, which works great, but it is a bit tight now getting my chains hooked up on the lock side, but not that bad. In hindsight I think I might have gone with THIS type. Either one should work, even with an extender, I would think.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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09-23-2012, 10:05 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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09-23-2012, 10:33 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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When we switched from a pickup to a Subaru the draw bar noise became much more obvious. I shimmed things with two pieces of sheet metal which helped some but did not eliminate the noise. Long term, an anti rattle device like the ones mentioned is probably a much better fix. Raz
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09-23-2012, 10:37 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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I'm curious why the dealer thought it necessary to use an extension. As for an anti-rattle device I know etrailer sells them, also Amazon I think, and I made one for myself. They seem to be kind of expensive for what they are. A while back I think someone put a photo of one on here that they bought , but it looked like it was pulling the ball mount up, I set mine up to pull it down as it would be with weight on it when hooked to the trailer ????
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09-23-2012, 10:50 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet (want 13 ft fiber glass
Posts: 2,316
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Draw Bar Not Tight
I use the Hitch Vice, and would recommend it to anyone. It's very easy to use and it works.
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09-23-2012, 12:09 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz
When we switched from a pickup to a Subaru the draw bar noise became much more obvious. I shimmed things with two pieces of sheet metal which helped some but did not eliminate the noise. Long term, an anti rattle device like the ones mentioned is probably a much better fix. Raz*
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I shimmed mine with 2 pieces of heavy plastic from a discarded snow sled .
I also use a hitch extension so I can lower my trucks tailgate and not have the tailgate hit the hitch
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09-23-2012, 12:24 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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I like Jack use a piece of Mt. bike inner tube. Quick fix that works for the most part but a problem if you take the draw bar off often - put mine on and leave it on unless I Know am not going to use it for a couple of months.
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09-23-2012, 08:07 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Jesse
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
Maryland
Posts: 815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
There are many types of anti-rattle devices to use with to tighten your hitch in the reciever. If you go to a hitch shop they should have a few different types. I finally bought one a while ago, and can't believe I put up with that clunking as long as I did.
I have THIS one, which works great, but it is a bit tight now getting my chains hooked up on the lock side, but not that bad. In hindsight I think I might have gone with THIS type. Either one should work, even with an extender, I would think.
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I use the Roadmaster one (Jim,s second link above) and really like it. I have used three or four different types, and that one is the best I've used (on a 2" hitch).
__________________
-Jesse
SOLD! - 1984 Scamp 13 in Maryland.
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09-23-2012, 08:53 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 19 ft 2010
Posts: 258
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Hack Saw Blades
Buy a cheap packages of hack saw blades, push them in as far as they go, break them off and do it again. The downside is they will rust quickly.
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09-23-2012, 11:32 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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I've had one noisy receiver.
I drilled a hole slightly larger than a 1/2 inch bolt in the side of the receiver and welded a 1/2 inch nut over the hole.
A 1/2 inch bolt stopped all the noise when it was tightened against the draw bar.
John
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09-24-2012, 03:42 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr and 1980 Bigfoot 17 ft
Posts: 1,339
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I tried shims (they fell out) and a cheap U-bolt (wouldn't stay tight). Then I bought a Hitch Vise model HT-3. It's great. Rock solid.
Hitch-Vise Fit Guide: Toyota Hitches
__________________
1980 Bigfoot 17' & former owner of 1973 Compact Jr
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09-24-2012, 09:44 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul
Posts: 196
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I have been eying this one up: StowAway Hitch Tightener
Seems very simple. Anyone have any experience with it?
Craig T.
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09-24-2012, 07:32 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
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I guess I'm just different. I don't mind the slop, but I drive a truck and don't hear the noise. I find when it's time to unhitch the trailer, the grease on the ball has caused the spoon to create a bit of a "vacuum." Rather than jack the trailer up a bunch, I just stomp on the draw bar and the trailer pops off the ball. Works for me!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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09-25-2012, 01:43 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
I find when it's time to unhitch the trailer, the grease on the ball has caused the spoon to create a bit of a "vacuum." Rather than jack the trailer up a bunch, I just stomp on the draw bar and the trailer pops off the ball. Works for me!
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Mine sticks once in a while. Makes for a rather dramatic moment.
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09-30-2012, 10:30 AM
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#18
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Member
Trailer: 2002 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe / 2002 Ford Explorer 4X4
Posts: 64
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Quitehitch
This was my answer to the loose ball mount.
Quiethitch The Silence Speaks For Itself
Nothing to fall out, no nuts to tighten/loosen, etc.
Simple to use, USA made, quality device and design.
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09-30-2012, 05:35 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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I've got something that shows up on etrailer.com but not in their products. I think it was made by Reese, less than $20. A simple square that goes around your tube with a single bolt that applies pressure to your reciever. Solved the problem.
Something like this but not quite. Been working for 65 years.
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10-04-2012, 09:12 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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I drilled a couple of holes in the receiver and threaded them 3/8" NC. and installed short bolts to snug thing up. It has worked well so far. No clunking..
Russ
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