Engine oil - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-09-2013, 03:21 PM   #15
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2007 Silverado: Change oil Once a year or when the readout tells you to. Whichever comes first.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:37 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Mike :When you run synthetic oil for a 15000 mile OCI do you change the oil filter at 7500 miles ?. From what I have read the oil will last for 15000 miles but the oil filters are not designed for 15000 miles and end up going into bypass long before you change oil . NAPA told me that their NAPA Gold filter (Wix ) is not rated for 15000 miles . This may be a good question for Floyd
Yes, unless a high capacity filter of some sort is available, it has to be changed out midway. My Toyota's filter is one I absolutely hate changing (it is a pleated filter inside a permanent aluminum housing that can be a bear to remove sometimes), thus the change in my practices.

One more thing I recall reading: synthetics tend to keep rings in better shape (staying swelled rather than shrinking with age as with ordinary oil).
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:21 PM   #17
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What Mike said

I use synthetics, but for less viscosity change with temperature, not in pursuit of longer oil change intervals or reduced engine friction.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:09 PM   #18
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all my vehicles get mobile 0w-30 changed spring/fall, synthetics in differentials if they have them. Only problem I ever had was when i first got married and my wife ran a 1980 pinto 4 quarts low of oil, and that was a fatal problem, in my mind when you drive something you check the oil....her reply to that was 'why do you think I got married!!"
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:30 PM   #19
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The problem with switching is the tolerances that synthetic oil runs at is much tighter than regular oil.

If the car or truck were new than yes running synthetic will extend engine life.
On a used car or truck you likely won't see a gain in engine life but synthetic will tolerate higher temps before breaking down.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:10 AM   #20
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Bob & Grace, Seeing that you are from Michigan (rust belt) and assuming that you don't drive like a teenager that thinks he/she is on a drag strip, it is unlikely synthetic oil is going to make a difference in your engine life. Your vehicle will probably rust away around your engine and when it eventually goes to a scrap yard, your engine will probably be one of the few things left that is still good.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:06 AM   #21
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I did a fairly extensive study into engine oils several years ago. What was apparent at that time was that within a specific engine oil spec, it didn't matter what brand since they were all formulated to that specific specification and were essentially the same product marketed under different brand names.

Differences between the various specs were mostly the additives used to tailor the lubricant to its intended application. For example an oil intended for an outboard motor might have more of an additive to dissolve or disperse water than an automobile engine oil.

What came to light via my study was that oils formulated to the diesel specification were almost the same as engine oils for gasoline engines except that included was a larger amount of anti-wear additive.

Subsequently, I use either RPM Dello or Shell Rotella in everything from lawn mowers to my old diesel Blazer and everything in between. Since we live only a mile from a small town that has become the shopping destination for the county and just about any type of store imaginable is located within two miles from us, our vehicles are all very low mileage for their age. So I cannot brag about so many hundred thousand miles.

I do have a Honda mower about 20 years old, one of the first ones that came out with the plastic base. I have mowed about 1-1/2 acres of our 2-1/2 all spring, summer and well into fall with this machine for the exercise until this spring when I finally decided I was old enough to use a rider. Still finding the Honda walk-behind useful for trimming I visited the Honda dealer early this spring needing a gasket/O-ring set for cleaning the carburetor.

The parts fellow was surprised that such an old model was still being used for such a large plot of ground on a consistent basis. Thinking about it now, perhaps using RPM Dello or Shell Rotella diesel grade oil in that Honda mower may have contributed to its longevity. In any case, it makes for a good story.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:19 AM   #22
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I use full synthetic oil and a NAPA Gold filter Change oil every 4000 to 4500 miles .
Dealer says I change oil too often ,my mechanic says not often enough.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:30 AM   #23
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I use synthetic in my Toyota FJ. It helps to stretch out the time between oil changes a bit over conventional oil. Any little bit of extra miles between oil changes is great for the FJ as it is a real pain in the azz to change. You have to remove a small skid plate to access the drain plug. There is a larger skid plate that has to be removed to access the oil filter. The oil filter cover can only be removed with a special tool. Once you know the procedure, it is not too bad. But it is still a lot more painful than some of my previous vehicles.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:48 PM   #24
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I change mine every 10k miles to prevent engine damage. I have seen several customers need $$$ engine repairs because they changed their oil at 5k. The oil I use has a unique property that is heat/pressure activated chemical that coats the bearings to prevent wear. So changing oil early thinking it will keep the oil cleaner, will actually wear out the engine sooner.

But I can only speak of my specific case, yours will be different. But most modern engines will easily go 10k miles on a good synthetic. And changing early will only cost you more money.

On the topic of does synthetic increase MPG? The only one I have seen any evidence that changing the oil directly improves MPG is Royal Purple.

Jason
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:27 PM   #25
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I change mine every 10k miles to prevent engine damage. I have seen several customers need $$$ engine repairs because they changed their oil at 5k. The oil I use has a unique property that is heat/pressure activated chemical that coats the bearings to prevent wear. So changing oil early thinking it will keep the oil cleaner, will actually wear out the engine sooner.

But I can only speak of my specific case, yours will be different. But most modern engines will easily go 10k miles on a good synthetic. And changing early will only cost you more money.

On the topic of does synthetic increase MPG? The only one I have seen any evidence that changing the oil directly improves MPG is Royal Purple.

Jason
What kind of oil has this additive that's heat/pressure activated?
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:05 PM   #26
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I have a few things to say on the subject. First, I use nothing but Amsoil or RedLine oils in my cars. There is a difference between synthetic oil bases. In fact, most of the motor oils sold as synthetic in the US cannot be called synthetic under European standards. Most "synthetic" oils here are class III base stocks, which are made from conventional oil. Class IV and V base stocks are truly synthetic.

I used RedLine oil in my Scion xD, which had a 1.8 liter engine (same as Corolla). I towed my Scamp and my cargo trailer often with that car, and sent samples of oil to Blackstone labs for analysis. At 10,000 miles (with a lot of towing), my oil analysis showed less wear than the average (same) engine showed at 6,000 miles with conventional oil. This is according to the guys at Blackstone, who were impressed with the low wear and high TBN of my oil samples. They encouraged me to keep going, but undecided 10,000 miles was an easy OCI to remember.

Good synthetic oil will resist thermal breakdown better than conventional or lesser synthetics. Good synthetics will also vaporize less than conventional oil. This means less of a loss of oil between changes. Some engines are known for losing a lot of oil as vapor... Such as the VW ALH engine. This engine requires synthetic... But many owners who used class III synthetics would end up with lots of oil collecting in the intake. Class IV and V synthetics would generally stay in the engine where they belonged.

As a teenager, I always drove OLD diesel Mercedes. Being low on dough, I ran conventional oils in the summer and synthetic (class III) in the winter. Never had a problem going back and forth. One of those cars is still on the road with well over 600,000 miles on the original engine.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:14 PM   #27
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O' Silver Ghost, pleeeeze do tell us of this oil that gets better with age......
I have a big quiddich tournament at Hogwarts soon and I need all the help I can get for my ride.

Also warn us of which ones shouldn't be changed to often.....
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:55 PM   #28
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What kind of oil has this additive that's heat/pressure activated?
This kind:




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