EZ hitch

[John McMillin]

I love my EZ Hitch-- the alignment device, I mean. There's really no downside, except for the modest cost. The sturdy steel V-section plates not only align the trailer laterally for hitching, they protect the bumper from a damaging impact should you back just an inch too far-- as you will. If you have the rear camera, alignment should be an easy task, but knowing just how far NOT to back up isn't.

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Chillywilly

Ok. Our VW Tiguan comes with a class 1 hitch. It has weight limit of 220. Now, before I get a 13' Scamp or Casita, educate me about the EZ hitch. I want to know the good, bad and the ugly. Thanks.

Throw it out. Get something bigger. Hitch, ball mount, and ball shank size need to match each other. Get at least a class II. Overkill is the name of the game when towing. You do not want to be in an accident while towing..

See YouTube for info on Easy Hitch. I don't think it is worth getting.

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I'm going to assume that when you say EZ Hitch you're talking about a Weight Distribution Hitch. Weight Distribution hitches are not recommended for 13' or smaller trailers. Most likely you'd overload the trailer axle.

One thing I like about these is they lock that tongue down in the ball. It is a comforting feeling.
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You could put one on a smaller trailer but it might mean beefing up the hitch mount.

It can be done without overloading a trailer axle. A larger axle for example, or a lower setting on the torque bars.

They make them for 4000 lbs trailers and 450 lb tongue weight. A lighter setting could work real well.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Night Sailor

One thing I like about these is they lock that tongue down in the ball. It is a comforting feeling.
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You could put one on a smaller trailer but it might mean beefing up the hitch mount.

It can be done without overloading a trailer axle. A larger axle for example, or a lower setting on the torque bars.

They make them for 4000 lbs trailers and 450 lb tongue weight. A lighter setting could work real well.

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Locking down the ball with a WD hitch can also have a negative effect. Most are known to do this so well that, should the trailer get turned over in an accident, it can take the TV with it.

a AWG suggests that 98% of hitch separations are due to pilot error.

But, if it's an older trailer, I would want to start out with a new coupler

[Brian B-P]

This was posted in response to the original statement about a class 1 hitch:

Originally Posted by Night Sailor

Throw it out. Get something bigger. Hitch, ball mount, and ball shank size need to match each other. Get at least a class II.

... but this has already been addressed, 3 days and only 3 posts ago:

Originally Posted by Chillywilly

Found out from VW today, that it is a class 2 hitch.

There's no problem to be fixed here, and nothing to be concerned about.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Oh, this thing.
Attachment 61532

Some folks have them, use them, and like them.

I don't have one and don't want one. The jack on my Scamp has a foot on it and it's not designed to be dragged across the asphalt, etc. it may bend the jack and that would be a PITA. IF the jack had a wheel on it and I could get the wheel parallel to the rear bumper... maybe...

But, I look at getting in and out of my truck to hookup good exercise! YMMV

Good points, I would also be concerned about impacting the coupler every time you hook-up.

[John McMillin]

"Throw it out. Get something bigger. Hitch, ball mount, and ball shank size need to match each other. Get at least a class II. Overkill is the name of the game when towing. "

I respectfully disagree with this philosophy. You could say that about the car and the trailer, as well as the hitch. First, you think the Tiguan's not big enough; you need its big brother, the Toureg. Then you notice that your egg trailer is only half the vehicle's tow capacity. Time to get a bigger trailer, and (if you're made of money) you wind up pulling a 24' Airstream behind it.

Our trailers were originally designed to be pulled by the family car. It's about right-sizing and sufficiency, not "overkill."

[John McMillin]

And rather than speculating about weight distributing hitches, CW, just do this simple test. Go to your Tiguan and open the tailgate. Sit down on the tailgate, or have someone of about 150 lbs do it. Watch the results. Did the rear of the car sag more than one inch? I didn't think so.

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

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Locking down the ball with a WD hitch can also have a negative effect. Most are known to do this so well that, should the trailer get turned over in an accident, it can take the TV with it.

a AWG suggests that 98% of hitch separations are due to pilot error.

But, if it's an older trailer, I would want to start out with a new coupler

I am not at all worried about flipping my TV. It is a dually and weighs as much as my trailer. Also my trailer has a very low center of mass. I drive slow most of the time for the fuel economy...even when unladen. Getting in an accident with a trailer is something I take every measure to prevent.

I once abandoned a boat when I found the trailer provided was not in my opinion highway worthy. While I had a lot of time and money invested in the boat, the risk moving it was too high. I turned around and drove 3 hours home rather than take a chance with it. I don't feel I lost money, if that trailer failed, the consequences could have been a nightmare in real life.

I did have one trailer decouple on me many years ago on an extreme bump which damaged my TV. The only other issue I has towing was a too light trailer literally bouncing off the ground on the bumps.

I would use a LL every time if they were made for light trailers.

I am contemplating swapping my hydraulic brake mechanism for electric brakes on my boat trailer but it only moves 15 miles a year. Thise brakes work--too well. It can't be ramp launched so I debate the cost benefit every year. I would probably swap the axle and change the tires, wheel, and bolt pattern at the same time to match my TV if I towed longer distances.. Perhaps when the tires start to checker, or I buy a place in Florida it will be a good idea.

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by John McMillin

"Throw it out. Get something bigger. Hitch, ball mount, and ball shank size need to match each other. Get at least a class II. Overkill is the name of the game when towing. "

I respectfully disagree with this philosophy. You could say that about the car and the trailer, as well as the hitch. First, you think the Tiguan's not big enough; you need its big brother, the Toureg. Then you notice that your egg trailer is only half the vehicle's tow capacity. Time to get a bigger trailer, and (if you're made of money) you wind up pulling a 24' Airstream behind it.

Our trailers were originally designed to be pulled by the family car. It's about right-sizing and sufficiency, not "overkill."

It is not at all respectful to put words in my mouth and disagree with something I DID NOT SAY.

I did not say anything about the tow vehicle. I was very specific about the topic which was that the OP thought he had a Class I hitch which was a prime candidate for replacement. A Class I hitch would never be considered overkill.

I tow with a Volvo 240. It has a fantastic turn radius and is an amazing car. I pull three different trailers with it and it does a better job on these than my pickup in two of these cases. Years ago I routinely towed with a 48 HP Rabbit diesel. Small cars are ideal TV because it is a natural way to carry more. Unfortunately the Volvo can tow up to 15,000 lbs, so I have a dually for the big tows.

I do absolutely believe a heavier grade hitch mount, ball mount and ball are wise investments and cheap insurance for safe travels. A mechanical failure at the hitch ball could cause a lot of damage. Consider the various shank sizes of a 2" ball. Would you rather have a 3/4" shank, or an 1.25" shank? The cost difference is low. The strength difference is substantial as the cross sectional area is 2.77 times greater. What is better-- a hollow tube ball mount or a solid piece of steel? I'll take the bigger shank and driller file my ball mount to accept it.

I have a huge assortment of ball mounts, various drop heights ball sizes, ball mount sizes, also assure you I have tossed out all the weak stuff including one factory GM hitch rated for 12,000 pounds that I felt was not safe towing a trailer and load close to that weight. My ball shanks fit the ball mount tightly and are torqued down secure with locknuts and drilled to accept cotter pins.

My chains attach to my hitch mount. Consider what happens if the hitch mount fails? A hitch rated for 17,000 lbs gives a more secure feeling than one rated for 2000 lbs. While your options are limited to your vehicle, I would always chose a higher rated hitch, ball and ball mount, for the peace of mind.

How do attach you chains? With hooks or enclosed threaded D-Rings. I use threaded D rings so the chain cannot fall off or I use a large bolt captured by washers and a nut through much larger than needed chain--so it can't come off on its own.

Each of my vehicles has the highest rated hitch, ball mount, and ball I could find.

However you are right in one respect. Overkill is not the right word. I do not consider all this to be overkill. I consider it to be adequate.

For a trailering novice the best advice I could give would be to use overkill with regards to hitches.