Finally got a Scamp! Axle/suspension perhaps needs work - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-10-2008, 08:44 PM   #15
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I just took a closer look at the photo, and if those are little rubber caps in the center of the hubs, with a Zerk grease fitting under them, that's a relatively new axle. The EZLube system certainly didn't exist in the 70s. If you crawl under and get the serial number, GAWR and plant number from the plate on the axle, you can do some research and find out when it was made. If the GAWR is 2,000 or 2,200 lbs, again, it is fairly recent.

If that's a new axle, then that's not your problem. Personally, I'd start with balance since you'll need to set that up right. However, it's easy enough to rattle the ball mount and coupler (the coupler is adjustable by a nut underneath and there are kits to quiet the ball mount).

From the photos, there are a lot of updated things on this Scamp. Besides the likely axle, it has what looks like rat fur, not elephant skin, and radius sliding windows. OTOH, the tongue setup looks old-style.
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:30 PM   #16
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Thanks for all the useful info guys. I'll have to take a closer look at the axle/hubs.

The owner before the ones who sold it to me definitely did alot of renovation work from what I understand. While it's not rat fur... the 'elephant skin' is in great shape... no gaps in the seams like I've seen on a number of other older units. It also has all new woodwork, new stovetop, new fridge (although it's just a cheap AC only unit), new cushions/upholstery, new taillights... even new Scamp decals on the repainted exterior.
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:22 PM   #17
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Our new (1976) Scamp... cleaned up!
Hi!
We have a 1976 Scamp too...but the rear window is solid. It looks as though your window slides open....Where did you get that??!! I'm so jealous.
A little more ventilation in the summer would be great!
Marjie
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:08 PM   #18
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Unfortunately, I don't know much more about it than you do. I DO know that the one of the previous owners did a fairly extensive renovation.
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Old 03-13-2008, 01:38 AM   #19
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I just took a closer look at the photo, and if those are little rubber caps in the center of the hubs, with a Zerk grease fitting under them, that's a relatively new axle.
Not necessarily so. I've got rubber caps and a zerk fitting with the "bearing buddies" I installed on the original 36 year old axle that needs replacing.

One other thought on the noise. I'm not familiar with your tug, but if you have a receiver, I found a lot of noise disappeared once I put on one of those little clamps that keeps everything tight.

From the pictures, your tongue looks a little high and the rear of the vehicle looks a little low. I'd try loading the trailer and balancing the loads before replacing the axle. The axles are supposed to be self damping by design, so I'd test the amount of spring and residual bounce by having someone bounce their weight a few times on the rear bumper. (sort of like checking for weak shocks on a car)
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:25 PM   #20
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Roy, I thought of that, but they didn't seem to stick out as much as BBs.

BTW, if you haven't already, when you next redo your bearings, I recommend that you use the newer seal from Dexter that has two lips and a spring retainer which they use with the EZLube system. Much better seal than the old style, although it may be hard to find.
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:48 PM   #21
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I'm not familiar with your tug, but if you have a receiver, I found a lot of noise disappeared once I put on one of those little clamps that keeps everything tight.
What little clamps, if may ask?



(I deleted unrelated copied text to save space)
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:37 PM   #22
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Howdy, I run car tires on my 13' Boler and it rides as good as my truck, and my truck rides like a large car, unless I`m on a highway with concrete break sections....normally towing it seems as if there is nothing attached to the truck.....I would weigh the trailer axle and tongue and try 12-15 % of your trailer weight on the tongue when you you load the trailer up.....as someone mentioned earlier, it sounds as if your tongue is too light and bounces, lifting against your ball.....this will make a lot of noise, because the the hitch coupler has some play in it, unless you use an equalizer, and bouncing type action pulling up on your Element TV.....your trailer looks real good.....hopefully the under carriage is in the same shape......Benny
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:12 AM   #23
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What little clamps, if may ask?
Here's one.

Here's another.

Here's still another.

Yet another.

And still another.

All found on the Ballmount Accessories page at ETrailer.com

Looks like a growth industry!!!

However, being as frugal as I am, I would be inclined to drill a hole in the side of my receiver, tap it and put in a short bolt. If it tore out, I would have the hole all ready for one of the J-bolts above.

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Old 04-05-2008, 07:16 PM   #24
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I'm bring this topic back to life as I'm sick of bumping up 99. (The return home is much better as the road has been paved, but California roads are likely to be getting much worse before they get better.)

From what I gather from this discussion, I might be able to improve the ride by:

1) Putting more load in the front of the trailer

2) Putting some kind of anti-rattle device on the hitch. All the ones shown were for 2", do they make them for 1 1/4?

3) Not having the trailer tires at max inflation.

Anything else?

Bobbie
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Old 04-05-2008, 08:01 PM   #25
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If all else fails, tap in some wedges made of wood.
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Old 04-05-2008, 11:28 PM   #26
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I'm bring this topic back to life as I'm sick of bumping up 99. (The return home is much better as the road has been paved, but California roads are likely to be getting much worse before they get better.)
2) Putting some kind of anti-rattle device on the hitch. All the ones shown were for 2", do they make them for 1 1/4?
Anything else?
Bobbie
I had a rattely hitch several years ago. I took a 1/2 inch bolt and nut, drilled a hole in the side of the receiver tube large enough for the bolt to go through and had a welder weld the nut to the receiver tube. When the draw bar was installed I tightened the bolt against the draw bar and the rattle was gone.
You might also check the adjustment on your coupler. After you have hooked your trailer to the TV try to lift it up. if it is loose and rattles when you lift it up you might want to tighten it up. Look up underneath the coupler and you should see a nut that increases the tension on the ball when the coupler is engaged. With a socket wrench tighten the nut {just barley enough} to eliminate the rattle. You don't want it so tight that it restricts the free movement of the ball inside of the coupler when you are turning.
I lived in the Fresno, Merced are for years. For some reason when Cal Trans repaves a section of 99 it only takes about 6 months before the pot holes return.
Hope this helps,
John
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:09 AM   #27
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It really does not seem to be the hitch. The trailer bounces and the ride is transmitted to the car. I'm going to try loading more weight on the tongue and see if it helps.

Bobbie
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:22 PM   #28
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You can measure your tongue weight by just putting it on a bathroom scale.
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