Fix for tire wear and positive camber

[The Minimalist]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

Regarding the picture of the wheels tilting outwards, can this happen with a new one say from being under loaded? Is there an adjustment such as shimming the axle at the frame to correct this?

1. This should not be an issue if the axle was originally sized for the design load of the trailer.

2. No.

You may just as well bite the bullet. You will be glad you did.........45 more years of trouble free service.

[Owen Lindsay]

Johnny, After owning our 1973 Trillium with torsion axles, we went to a larger stick-built (Kit Companion) for a short time. We never gave any thought to the type of axles or suspension system until our first trip out.
The first thing we had to do each time we stopped was pick up all the clothes and replace the hangers in the closet. The trailer bounced like a paint-shaker at the hardware store.
One summer later we bought our Dolphin with torsion suspension and the problem went away. Good luck with your project!!

[Johnny M]

Okay thanks for the replies. I have a Dexter Axle plant about 1 mile from my home so I called them and they are going to email me over a form to fill out for a new axle. I was surprised that they said they built everything as needed and don't stock anything. Anyone here put a Dexter brand torsion axle on their Boler and if so what were the specs or model #?

[Donna D.]

Johnny, if no one answers up... you may want to get in touch with Paul Neumeister. He sells axles for Bolers. While he's in Sebringville, Ontario and you don't need an axle from him, I bet he can give you all the information you need.


Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister

[Johnny M]

Thanks Donna, I forgot about Paul! Thanks!

[CampyTime]

If this helps you...just got new axle installed on my 2012 Scamp 13 for negative camber on curbside tire. Torsion axles are supposed to have some positive camber as I recall which corrects when trailer is loaded.

If you're getting funky tire wear, a new axle on a 45 year old one would be a good investment and my opinion is to stay with the torsion axle. By the way my curbside spindle was bent, saw with my own eyes. Trailer tires nice and true now.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by CampyTime

If this helps you...just got new axle installed on my 2012 Scamp 13 for negative camber on curbside tire. Torsion axles are supposed to have some positive camber as I recall which corrects when trailer is loaded.

If you're getting funky tire wear, a new axle on a 45 year old one would be a good investment and my opinion is to stay with the torsion axle. By the way my curbside spindle was bent, saw with my own eyes. Trailer tires nice and true now.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Fiberglass RV mobile app

Thanks for the info, good to know. But this brings up another question regarding the positive camber that corrects when the trailer is loaded...I am pretty sure everyone has different loaded weights depending on their style of camping so how do you adjust for a trailer loaded on the lighter side vs one loaded on the heavy side so that you don't get bad tire wear (I understand about balancing the load evenly not talking about that)?

[FRED SMAILES]

I have a 74 boler replaced the alxe from paul, 4 bolts, a few swears,done.
in my build thread, Theres a hole on my boler
fred

[The Minimalist]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

Thanks for the info, good to know. But this brings up another question regarding the positive camber that corrects when the trailer is loaded...I am pretty sure everyone has different loaded weights depending on their style of camping so how do you adjust for a trailer loaded on the lighter side vs one loaded on the heavy side so that you don't get bad tire wear (I understand about balancing the load evenly not talking about that)?

For a given trailer, the axle is chosen to support the weight of the trailer and the average load a reasonable person would load for the intended use (In our case loaded for camping, not hauling all your household goods cross country). It's based on averages. It's not a one to one correlation. If you had a 2200 lb axle and you replace with the same, you should have no problems.

Usually there is a tag on the axle giving it's design load. On a torsion axle you need to get one with the same down angle as the original. Paul, the Boler guy, should be able to help you there.

[CampyTime]

Johnny, the Minimalist provided a great response to your question. I believe a new axle will sol e your problem. Starting angle on my Scamp 13 was 22 degrees up. 2200 # torsion axle. I ordered mine to replace origi al, which has 7 inch electric brakes. To give you an idea of cost, I paid $840 installed. Will be cheaper without brakes

Sent from my VS985 4G using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[Johnny M]

Thanks Fred, Clif and others for the additional info. After talking with Paul Neumeister he recommended I check the previous owners job of repacking the wheel bearings which he done a few days before we bought it and man am I glad I did. While you could tell the bearings were repacked (overly so with grease in the entire hub and castle nut), he failed to properly tighten the castle nut! That nut holds the hub in place but also is responsible for putting the right amount of pressure on the bearings. He had the nut too loose allowing slop in the hub thus allowing the wheels to lean in...I did one side first and compared it to the other side, repacked side now looks straight up and down and other side still leans in, fixing to do it now and will look at it again in the morning with better light but I think the problem is solved. If this is the original axle it probably does have some wear as I think the trailer sits a tad lower than it should but nothing I think that will cause any problems for the foreseeable future but I will probably have to replace those new tires we put on last fall sooner than expected due to the inside shoulder wear...

[Johnny M]

After doing the bearings on the drivers side (it too has the nut too loose) the tires don't lean in as much, very slightly now. Not sure if that is from 45 years of axle wear or a slight bend? Going to monitor the tires and see how they wear for a little while before I move forward with a new axle.

[Johnny M]

Okay after reading some of Ian Giles axle info, it appears my axle may not be original as it is trailing arm and not leading arm, and the axle tube is under the lower floor and not under the dinette. So if it has been replaced could it need to be aligned/bent on a hydraulic press to accommodate for the wear on the inside of the tires? The ground clearance of the lower floor at the door is 9 3/8" to bottom/underside of the floor. According to Ian's info the normal step up is 7 to 8"

[Johnny M]

Found the plate on the axle, it is indeed an Ingersol Rub R Rid axle, 1200 lb capacity, under patent by Neiohart. I spent a few minutes examining the welds on the axle and the brackets due to the fact that the axle manufacturers plate is on the curb side as opposed to the drivers side, is upside down and is also facing the tongue. It looks like the axle may have been cut off the frame due to evidence of uneven/cut metal on bottom of the brackets leading me to believe it was flipped over at some point and re-welded under the lower floor as opposed to under the dinette area. Can't believe I did not catch this when I had the body off the frame. The tires were badly worn but seemed worn pretty evenly so I didn't think to further examine the axle as the lower floor ground clearance seemed good. I guess that is one more thing Ian Giles could add to his buyers guide is looking for a "flipped axle". Anything to save a buck I guess...now it looks like I have got to start looking for a new axle.