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Old 07-16-2012, 11:43 AM   #1
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Ford Escape Factory Towing Package

Hello everyone,

This post is just for information to save someone the research time I went through. I couldn't find anywhere in my documents or online for that matter as to what my factory towing package included. Finally ended up calling the service department at my Ford dealer. I was told the factory towing package on the 2009 Escape XLT has the transmission cooler built into the Air Conditioning unit. The Escape with the Factory Towing package and the V6 e series engine is capable of towing 3500 lbs. Hope this helps anyone who may be wondering as I was, about what the towing package included. I forgot to ask about the 7 way plug though....


Ed
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:40 PM   #2
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I'm curious as to what kind of gas mileage you get towing and not towing.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:49 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by SurfsideEd View Post
Hello everyone,

This post is just for information to save someone the research time I went through. I couldn't find anywhere in my documents or online for that matter as to what my factory towing package included. Finally ended up calling the service department at my Ford dealer. I was told the factory towing package on the 2009 Escape XLT has the transmission cooler built into the Air Conditioning unit. The Escape with the Factory Towing package and the V6 e series engine is capable of towing 3500 lbs. Hope this helps anyone who may be wondering as I was, about what the towing package included. I forgot to ask about the 7 way plug though....


Ed
It includes a fourplug for the trailer and the factory ClassII hitch. No factory RV plug or electric brake controller is supplied, but can be supplied aftermarket or possibly dealer installed. These last two items are needed to reach the 3500# rating. Notice Ford says "3500# when properly equipped".
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:15 PM   #4
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I'm curious as to what kind of gas mileage you get towing and not towing.
I tow my 13D front bath Scamp with my 2008 Ford Escape (2.3L 4CYL 2WD manual transmission)
When towing at just under 60MPH we get consistent mileage between 22 and 26MPG. Towing at 65MPH the mileage can drop below 20MPG.
Trip mileage without the trailer is consistently between 27 and 30MPG @ 75MPH.
2008 marked the introduction of electric power steering which is the equivalent of about a 5HP increase.
The Four cylinder engine gained .2L in displacement and 15HP for the 2009 model year.
It has remained pretty much the same since then, through the 2012 model year.
The 2012 and earlier Escape also offered a 3.0L V6 mated only to an automatic, and a Hybrid mated only to an automatic. All models offered either 2 or 4 wheel drive.
The hybrid will not be offered next year due to the introduction of the more efficient ecoboost engine.
2013 marks the introduction of a whole new Escape. The ECOboost technology allows the car to retain the 3500# tow capacity, but Ford will no longer offer a V6 or a manual transmission after 2012. Maximum fuel economy will actually increase by several MPG, with no loss of power.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:40 PM   #5
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Thanks Floyd, very helpful info.

My Triple e weighs in just under 1400lbs so not worried on the 3500 lb limit. I do have electric brakes but I didn't really find any problems braking without them being hooked up. I felt no push as I did when I used to pull the Tent Trailer some years back. Swerving and slowing to avoid a moose on the highway didn't cause any problems either. The Triple e pulls very well.

It cost me 67 dollars ( aprox 33 dollars per 100 miles) to pull it along the Superior lakeshore, which is 300 km of very hilly and rugged terrain. My speed was between 90 and 105 km/ph. I had started out using 87 octane but at 150 kms in I filled up with 91. I noticed quite a noticeable difference in gas milage and power for the last half using the higher octane. Using the 87 octane I could not use 6th gear. As a note, It was a hot day and I used AC pretty much all the way. No sign of engine overheating, heat gauge pretty well stayed in the middle the whole way.

I do wonder if it's ok to use the 91 octane in the V6 e series. Would appreciate comments on this.

Thanks
Ed
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:03 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by SurfsideEd View Post
Thanks Floyd, very helpful info.

My Triple e weighs in just under 1400lbs so not worried on the 3500 lb limit. I do have electric brakes but I didn't really find any problems braking without them being hooked up. I felt no push as I did when I used to pull the Tent Trailer some years back. Swerving and slowing to avoid a moose on the highway didn't cause any problems either. The Triple e pulls very well.

It cost me 67 dollars ( aprox 33 dollars per 100 miles) to pull it along the Superior lakeshore, which is 300 km of very hilly and rugged terrain. My speed was between 90 and 105 km/ph. I had started out using 87 octane but at 150 kms in I filled up with 91. I noticed quite a noticeable difference in gas milage and power for the last half using the higher octane. Using the 87 octane I could not use 6th gear. As a note, It was a hot day and I used AC pretty much all the way. No sign of engine overheating, heat gauge pretty well stayed in the middle the whole way.

I do wonder if it's ok to use the 91 octane in the V6 e series. Would appreciate comments on this.

Thanks
Ed
Yes, it certainly is ok to run 91 octane in your Escape.Better yet, if you can find fuel without ethanol, you will get more power and better fuel economy. Your electronic engine controls can compensate for octane.
If your Escape is U.S. spec or the same as, then it is tuned to run on 87 octane fuel, so you will likely experience no improvement when not towing.
Accelleration is the most fuelish, so a little lighter foot might make the difference. I am sure that the higher octane would make no measurable difference at cruisin' speed or even under light acceleration.
Higher octane fuel is actually less volatile and so resists detonation, thereby not alerting the knock sensor, which would normally retard the timing under a load when required.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:14 AM   #7
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Yes, it certainly is ok to run 91 octane in your Escape.Better yet, if you can find fuel without ethanol, you will get more power and better fuel economy. Your electronic engine controls can compensate for octane.
If your Escape is U.S. spec or the same as, then it is tuned to run on 87 octane fuel, so you will likely experience no improvement when not towing.
Accelleration is the most fuelish, so a little lighter foot might make the difference. I am sure that the higher octane would make no measurable difference at cruisin' speed or even under light acceleration.
Higher octane fuel is actually less volatile and so resists detonation, thereby not alerting the knock sensor, which would normally retard the timing under a load when required.
I use the non-ethanol gas when ever possible in my tow vehicle. I get better pulling power in 5th gear and the mileage improves enough to compensate for the extra cost, depending on the cost. I also use it in all of my small gas motors, boats and classic cars, though not required. It runs better and prevents storage issues from moisture.

I had to replace two small engine carburetors because of corrosion and leaking seals from ethanol at $240 each. No problems since switching to non-ethanol. I also have been using stabilizer for years (buy it by the gallon).

Unfortunately, non-ethanol is getting really hard to buy in the cities, at least in MN. It has also gotten a lot more expensive too.

Regards.
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:13 PM   #8
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Do you know if the 2013 2.5 L Escape is ok to tow a Scamp? probably the 16 foot. I know very little about cars and towing and am considering getting the 2013 Ford Escape with the 2.5L I4 IVCT engine . I know they say the 2.0 ecoboost is the one for towing but can the 2.5 work??
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:42 AM   #9
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Do you know if the 2013 2.5 L Escape is ok to tow a Scamp? probably the 16 foot. I know very little about cars and towing and am considering getting the 2013 Ford Escape with the 2.5L I4 IVCT engine . I know they say the 2.0 ecoboost is the one for towing but can the 2.5 work??
I am not familar with the escape. I did a quick search and found this comparison chart: http://media.ford.com/images/10031/2...cape_Specs.pdf

The tow capacity (2.5L I4 IVCT engine) is per chart 1500 lbs. According to the Scamp website the estimated dry weight of a 16 footer is 1750 pounds. Add all your personal belongings water, etc. and you are much higher than the "rated" capacity.

If you are in accident, plan on getting into a legal battle. I would also worry about warranty issues and your insurance company will denign the claim.

I also read the Escape has a history of transmission failures. Just search on the net to find history. I would make sure it is equipped with a transmission cooler for towing.

All of my tow vehicles are older pickups with rear wheel drive and manual transmissions so failure is basically non-existent.

I don't know how mechanically Ford gets 240 hp out of a 2.0 liter engine in the upgraded Escape eco models. Turbo's? I have worked on and rebuilt several engines. I buy for simplicity. If a turbo ever fails, you will be shocked at the price to fix it. I would rather have a larger less efficient siimple engine than a smaller that is complicated and can not handle heavy loads for an extended period of time.

You are going to have to upgrade to the higher-end escape models just to get higher towing capacity and be legal. I would think the suspension also has to be heavier since they appear to be 4wd.

Sorry, maybe some real Escape owners can chime in.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:34 PM   #10
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All of my tow vehicles are older pickups with rear wheel drive and manual transmissions so failure is basically non-existent.
A friend of mine had a Jeep Cherokee which destroyed its manual transmission input shaft - no design is immune to poor design or poor quality control, but I agree that more simple is more likely to be reliable, because there is just less to go wrong.

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I don't know how mechanically Ford gets 240 hp out of a 2.0 liter engine in the upgraded Escape eco models. Turbo's? I have worked on and rebuilt several engines. I buy for simplicity. If a turbo ever fails, you will be shocked at the price to fix it. I would rather have a larger less efficient siimple engine than a smaller that is complicated and can not handle heavy loads for an extended period of time.
Yes, the EcoBoost engines are turbocharged, just like every modern diesel. If reliance on turbos for sufficient power output makes the engines unable to handle heavy loads for extended periods, that will come as a big surprise to the heavy truck industry... maybe they should double their engine sizes and abandon those turbos...

Just kidding - the heavy trucks just confirm that turbos do add complication and repair cost, but when the vehicle is properly designed they can be a valuable component of a reliable system.

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I would think the suspension also has to be heavier since they appear to be 4wd.
Suspension capacity and driven wheels have no relationship. The 4WD could have not only the same capacity but the same actual suspension parts, although there is a tendency to package a slightly taller suspension with 4WD, either to give clearance for more drivetrain parts hanging down, or to fit larger tires, or just to suit the expected desired image. If a specific package does have higher rear suspension capacity, that might lead to a higher tow rating, on the assumption that the trailer will have 10% tongue weight.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:12 AM   #11
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A friend of mine had a Jeep Cherokee which destroyed its manual transmission input shaft - no design is immune to poor design or poor quality control, but I agree that more simple is more likely to be reliable, because there is just less to go wrong.


Yes, the EcoBoost engines are turbocharged, just like every modern diesel. If reliance on turbos for sufficient power output makes the engines unable to handle heavy loads for extended periods, that will come as a big surprise to the heavy truck industry... maybe they should double their engine sizes and abandon those turbos...

Just kidding - the heavy trucks just confirm that turbos do add complication and repair cost, but when the vehicle is properly designed they can be a valuable component of a reliable system.


Suspension capacity and driven wheels have no relationship. The 4WD could have not only the same capacity but the same actual suspension parts, although there is a tendency to package a slightly taller suspension with 4WD, either to give clearance for more drivetrain parts hanging down, or to fit larger tires, or just to suit the expected desired image. If a specific package does have higher rear suspension capacity, that might lead to a higher tow rating, on the assumption that the trailer will have 10% tongue weight.
I understand your reply and agree. I have retrofitted turbos into sports cars and love driving them. I have also replaced OEM turbos that have failed. I am no way an expert but "feel" consumer grade gasoline engines are more reliable when pulling a "heavy" load using a larger displacement engine rather than a small one equipped with a turbo pushed hard. I am looking at buying a turbo truck now and have been reading a lot of postings (manufactures forum) from turbo engine owners - some love em, some hate them. I would rather give up a few mpg for reliability. I am going to wait a year to look at the reports then.

I have two trucks, one 2wd and other 4wd, both same model and engine. Though they both have identical towing capacity, the 4wd suspension is much better at handling my tonque weight. I had not thought about a SUV having the same capacity whether 2 or 4 wd.

Thanks for your reply.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:37 AM   #12
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This is a much more acceptable statement.
My statement about pulling a trailer over the capacity of the TV was meant as a warning not to do it. I recall reading about an investigation of a major accident caused by a person pulling a trailer over the capacity of the tow vehicle. The owner was deemed at fault, insurance was denigned, and the family that got rear-ended sued. I recall people were killed from the collision.

I did not provide links because it was a while since reading the story.


Regards.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:48 AM   #13
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I think that this portion of the Community Rules is the best part:
"Challenge others' points of view and opinions, but do so respectfully and thoughtfully."
I agree.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:06 AM   #14
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This is a much more acceptable statement.
I received an email copy of the attack on my original comments.

I wrote a rebuttal to the email but decided to just shut up.

Thanks for your moderator efforts.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:02 AM   #15
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There have been stories of grossly overloaded tow vehicles and insurance complications, but I think, that is not a common situation. I see large campers on half ton trucks, pulling trailers of some sort. I know that they are overloaded. I can only assume that they are occasionally involved in accidents. If insurance claims were denied for every overloaded vehicle, that would be news. Manufactures recommended tow limits are not law. They are recommendations. I am sure that some on this site think that exceeding those limits should be automatic grounds for insurance claim denial. But let's face it they’re not.
I don't know where the line is between gross negligence and simple liability. But it is possible to tow a trailer with a vehicle which has no manufacture recommended towing capacity and still be covered by your liability insurance.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:11 AM   #16
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Thank you, David. Our parents taught us black from white but the ability to accept the existence of grey is also useful. The rules of evidence are very relaxed here; none of us have at our fingertips the latest, most comprehensive and indisputable information about every subject; the anecdotal, impressionistic, and seat-of-the-pants opinion is given space beside the most exhaustively-supported and nuanced arguments. The price of admission to the forum is quite simply an interest in the subject matter of the forum, however mild or transitory.

We should all contribute WHEN we have something of merit to contribute. For me, it's often humbling to discover that I don't know enuf to say anything intelligent but preferable to the consequences of saying it anyway. There are members here who are very effective and patient in point by point rebuttal. They won't shoot themselves in the foot by getting angry. Grey area; caution advised!

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Old 03-25-2013, 11:31 AM   #17
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I don't know where the line is between gross negligence and simple liability. But it is possible to tow a trailer with a vehicle which has no manufacture recommended towing capacity and still be covered by your liability insurance.
I agree (with this and with the earlier part of David's post).

It is also possible to tow a trailer within the vehicle's towing capacity as recommended by the manufacturer and still be negligent and liable for damages. It's like a speed limit - yes, you are supposed to stay within it and exceeding it (aside from being a legal offense in itself) is evidence of negligence, but that doesn't mean it is always safe, prudent, or responsible to drive as fast as the limit.

Towing packages are mostly about drivetrain reliability, which is important, but is far from the whole story.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:37 PM   #18
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There have been stories of grossly overloaded tow vehicles and insurance complications, but I think, that is not a common situation. I see large campers on half ton trucks, pulling trailers of some sort. I know that they are overloaded. I can only assume that they are occasionally involved in accidents. If insurance claims were denied for every overloaded vehicle, that would be news. Manufactures recommended tow limits are not law. They are recommendations. I am sure that some on this site think that exceeding those limits should be automatic grounds for insurance claim denial. But let's face it they’re not.
I don't know where the line is between gross negligence and simple liability. But it is possible to tow a trailer with a vehicle which has no manufacture recommended towing capacity and still be covered by your liability insurance.
For the fun of it I called my insurance agent. He likes to hear from me because it usually means business. LOL.

Anyway, he said if there was a minor fender bender they would just pay it, even if some negligence was involved.

However, if it was a major accident and negligence was involved (like the owner knowing he/she grossly exceeded towing capacity or overloaded the trailer) then they would probably still pay damages. He said they might use subrogation to collect monies from the person who caused the loss, even if it is the insured person. He laughed and said just don't do it - it can be a legal mess.

I also found out from him that there are firms that specialize in RV legal cases, especially involving loss of control from swaying - who knew?

Anyway - thanks for the reply.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:47 PM   #19
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This has me thinking, liability insurance, isn't that insurance for when you mess up? Or am I mistaken? Is it actually insurance for when you do everything exactly as you should?
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:26 PM   #20
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They pay. Your rates go up. You pay. Am I wrong folks? How bout a show of hands.

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