Handling issues (1979 Trillium / 2000 Subaru outback)

[Jane in California]

From Bob Miller:

1. I would pass on the wooden shims idea. There is a "U" shaped clamp available that will take all of the play out of the drawbar/receiver connection. I never leave home without mine.

2.`You have a 35 year old trailer. The hitch could be worn, damaged or, at the very least, needs the ball clamp adjusted for a snug grip on the ball. As long as it's in the shop it might just be a good idea to get a new hitch installed at the same time. (I did)

3.Is there a chance that you are using a 1-7/8" Ball with a 2" hitch? It's happened to a number of us."

From Jane in California:

I am wondering about the camber too. It feels OK when towing, but when just sitting there, the wheels do appear to be tilted. I had the axle checked, and the shop said it was straight and true. But is it?

And have also experienced this bumping and jumping bit. Attributed it to the trailer being totally empty, but now I'd like to try those clamps. Can someone describe where to put them?

I had the bearings packed and the tires changed before I drove my trailer home. I am getting two different opinions....do I need to have specific trailer tires, or are passenger tires OK? My Trillium weighs about 1000 pounds.

My ball does fit my hitch... 1 7/8". But am considering having the hitch replaced and getting a 2" ball. Will this make for a better tow?

I have the feeling I didn't post this correctly. Still a newbie. Sorry!

[FlatlandFlyFisher]

It's been a long time since I first posted. An update:

a.) I replaced the axle on the trailer with a new axle, with brakes. This reduced the porposing behaviour, but it did not go away entirely.

b.) When the axle was replaced, the tongue was replaced as well, to remove the bent section. This changed the hitch ball diameter to 2" (a 1 7/8 wasn't quickly available).

I recommend A-line Frame in Saskatoon (A-Line | Frame & Alignment). They did a very good job on the tongue replacement and axle replacement

c.) The Subaru was pretty good for the task. With a 2.5 L engine, I did have some overheating issues if I pushed too hard.

d.) The trailer was good for the season, once I fixed the gas leaks (flared fitting at connection to fridge and jammed stove valve), reduced bug holes, and put more caulking.

e.) The Subaru has been deemed beyond the point of fixing (306 k), so it has been retired. I think my new(er) Ford F-150 will be up to the task. I didn't want to take the Trillium into the mountains with the Subaru, but we'll do exactly that next summer.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Jane in California

From Bob Miller:

1. I would pass on the wooden shims idea. There is a "U" shaped clamp available that will take all of the play out of the drawbar/receiver connection. I never leave home without mine.

2.`You have a 35 year old trailer. The hitch could be worn, damaged or, at the very least, needs the ball clamp adjusted for a snug grip on the ball. As long as it's in the shop it might just be a good idea to get a new hitch installed at the same time. (I did)

3.Is there a chance that you are using a 1-7/8" Ball with a 2" hitch? It's happened to a number of us."

From Jane in California:

I am wondering about the camber too. It feels OK when towing, but when just sitting there, the wheels do appear to be tilted. I had the axle checked, and the shop said it was straight and true. But is it?

And have also experienced this bumping and jumping bit. Attributed it to the trailer being totally empty, but now I'd like to try those clamps. Can someone describe where to put them?

I had the bearings packed and the tires changed before I drove my trailer home. I am getting two different opinions....do I need to have specific trailer tires, or are passenger tires OK? My Trillium weighs about 1000 pounds.

My ball does fit my hitch... 1 7/8". But am considering having the hitch replaced and getting a 2" ball. Will this make for a better tow?

I have the feeling I didn't post this correctly. Still a newbie. Sorry!

There are several "U" clamps similar to this one out there. Mine had a single bar rather than the plate, but works about the same. There is a LOT of stress there so don't be tempted in trying a hardware store clamp, it will just break or come loose.

Tire choice opens a whole bag of worms. Lets say that ST (trailer use only) tires were developed for a reason. I understand that they have stiffer sidewalls. And it's what I have always used for my trailers.

A 2" ball won't tow any differently, but it will set you up to match more trailers and other TV's in the future.

Just keep those questions a coming.....

[Jane in California]

I can't seem to find a U-clamp in a 1 7/8" size. Maybe I will switch out to a 2" ball after all. Now if only I knew where all this money was coming from!!

[Bob Miller]

It's not the size of the hitch ball, it's the size of the receivers outside dimension.
It clamps the drawbar to the receiver to reduce slack in the connection. Here's a link.


Roadmaster Quiet Hitch for 2" Trailer Hitches Roadmaster Hitch Accessories RM-061


This is the exact one I use

[David B.]

I have had great success using a hitch vice. Look here.
Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories
Good Luck
Dave & Paula

[Dbybe]

Originally Posted by Carol H

The U bolts they sell at hardware stores come in various sizes as well as grades/strength. The link posted wasn't actually the type I was thinking of. I know a number of RV'ers who use ones purchased from a hardware store & have used one on a hitch mount bike rake to stop the rattle as well as on a boat trailer.

The type I was think of looks pretty well the same as the anti rattle Roadmaster Quiet Hitch that trailer sells for $23.

I use this same hitch clamp from etrailer. It spans accross the joint between the receiver and the hitch itself. When sinched down there is no play at all and wonderfully, no rattle.