Help me locate flat 7 wire? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-04-2015, 04:36 PM   #15
Name: Kenny
Trailer: '79 13' trillium
Posts: 32
To clarify, I'm not opposed to one on the underside of my car, but I have it wired up currently inside with a hidden compartment near the spare. The wiring currently allows me to switch between 4wire and 7wire, already linked, one running into the other.
The move to mount exterior would mean more fiddling, and likely a bit of a headache, as the trailer has it's own trick to work with: the tow wire is secured static about 2 feet behind the hitch on the frame. (i didn't do that, but I also don't really have any interest in having to add a whole new set up of wires and also link them to the old trailer wire.

Our winters are of course just winters. Here there is considerable salt used on roads.
I was talking with the local trailer company and one thing they did say was they see a good deal of corroded electrical tow related issues.

Given what I have to work with, making a short extension seemed the simplest.

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Old 06-05-2015, 10:17 PM   #16
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Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper, 2002 Highlander 3.0L, 1999 F250 7.3L Diesel
Posts: 471
Kenny, Did your tow vehicle come from the factory with the 4-wire plug located on the inside, or did you add it there by taping into the taillight wiring? If so, then I guess it makes sense to leave it there and also have the conversion to 7-wire with it there on the inside with it. For the sake of comparison, I've added some photos below (I hope) of the setup we like. Our Highlander came with the 4-wire plug mounted on the hitch. Then we had a Hopkins dual 4-wire/7-wire plug installed. The Hopkins has a 4-wire pigtail that plugs into the original 4-wire plug, then two additional wires were run from the front of the car to add trailer braking and battery charging for the trailer (the 7th wire for a trailer "accessory" is not currently being used).
The first photo shows the Hopkins combo plug with the 4-pin on the left side (vertical orientation) and the 7-pin on the right - both with their dust cover closed. The second one shows both dust covers open. The third photo shows how well the back side of the unit is sealed to the weather (if you can see it; bad lighting). Both the 4-wire plug and the 7-wire plug work great with no more need to carry along any additional adaptors. Dale
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DSC08043.jpg   DSC08044.jpg  


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Old 06-05-2015, 11:07 PM   #17
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Posts: 349
Originally Posted by Ksimdjembe View Post
I'm trying to find some ribbon style (at) 10 gauge 7wire to use in place of reg 7wire (thick, round).
I'd like it in place of thick wire that won't fit out the hatch of my tow vehicle.
I don't have much interest in relocating the wire harness to an under car mount, I like being able to roll it up in the hatch out of the weather.
Dan anyone help?
You're worry too much ab your TV's hatch which would "grind" the trailer harness when hatch closed. I had my Toyota towing harness installed underneath, so it would be affected by water, snow, mud ...My 2nd TV has harness like yours w/o issues and I have been using it for countless times. Remember, rubber seal of vehicle's rear hatch bearing a lot of tolerance. Both of my TVs having towing harness installed by myself. The latter is a modification for weather-proof. I could supply you with photos of both... My 2nd TV is a minivan. Both harnesses include combined 4/7pin connectors.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:43 AM   #18
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Trailer: Trillium
Posts: 712
look up festoon cable, not sure if 7 is a viable number or not, you might have to get 8 conductor, it is commonly used on cranes, comes with an overall jacket in yellow, orange or black, then if you stripped enough at the end, you could slip a piece of heat shrink on, make the plug connections, then slide the eatshrink down and turn it into round cable again
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:54 PM   #19
Name: Kenny
Trailer: '79 13' trillium
Posts: 32
Thanks for the ideas. I'll look into crane cable. Sounds like it could work.

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