Help with hitch lock - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-02-2013, 03:01 PM   #15
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Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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I posted this earlier. Just go to the site and it will answer all your questions.

hitch lock from Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:19 PM   #16
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Name: Logan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13'
Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by SharonM View Post
Well, the seller (a cop in Kansas) sent me an email and told me to buy a few things before we hooked up in Oklahoma for the trailer/title transfer. I quoted in first post exactly what he said. If what I've bought is wrong, I'll have to head to a walmart (there's one close to our meet-up) and make it right.

Sharon
You're fine.

The lock you purchased will fit the lever lock coupler on all factory equipped Scamps.

The only other thing that would help is a pin lock for the receiver on your vehicle.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:38 PM   #17
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Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
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Logan, does this one look like it'll work?

Master Lock 2866DATSC Swivel Head Receiver Lock, Chrome : Amazon.com : Automotive

Sharon
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:41 PM   #18
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Name: Clayton
Trailer: 19' 1977 BIGGAR
British Columbia
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Looks like you've chosen a good hitch lock which will keep it secure to your vehicle and keep it from opening. We have a similar one.

We also purchased a hitch lock which takes the place of the receiver pin. It keeps your hitch secured in the vehicle hitch receiver.

Even if you have all the locks in the world, make sure you walk around your vehicle looking at everything, including the hitch pins/locks and make sure your trailer lights/brake connector is still hooked to the vehicle so all your lights are functional.

Things vibrate loose or can get bumped out, and of course, there are the stories of people undoing things while you have stopped and left you vehicle for a bit.

Have fun!!
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:42 PM   #19
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Name: Clayton
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We use one just like that. That's the type I was referring to in my message above.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:45 PM   #20
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Name: Logan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13'
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That would be fine.

It has the pins for both 2" and 1 1/4" receivers.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:46 PM   #21
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Name: Sharon
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Texas
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Thank you for that, Clayton. Some fool once said, "ignorance is bliss." That has not been my experience as I've jumped head first into this whole new world of trailers and tow vehicles and what keeps them joined at the hip!!!

Sharon
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:52 PM   #22
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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Originally Posted by 841K9 View Post
The coupler is just a spring catch - any good bump could open up even a brand new one.
A well-designed coupler latch is an over-centre linkage. "New" and "junk" are not mutually exclusive... but to be sure, I did agree that a pin could be valuable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 841K9 View Post
Why do you think off road trailers use pins or pintles?
For greater articulation without binding a coupler socket against a ball stud.
You asked...
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:02 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
A well-designed coupler latch is an over-centre linkage. "New" and "junk" are not mutually exclusive... but to be sure, I did agree that a pin could be valuable.


For greater articulation without binding a coupler socket against a ball stud.
You asked...
Pins have almost no articulation. Especially when connected to a drawbar.
Pintles in the most common solid mount have almost the same amount as a standard ball hitch.

Now, the rotating pintle on my m1008 is a completely different beast.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:46 PM   #24
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I was going to suggest Wal mart.
They have matching sets of locks for your drawbar and the coupler on your trailer.
John
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:02 PM   #25
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I bought one from O'Reily's I don't recall what I paid for it but I like it better than the pin by far!
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:10 PM   #26
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Sharon, you needn't be overly concerned with security on your trip home. Why? You won't need the coupler lock with the ball on the way home because the coupler will be on the ball of the receiver draw bar (stinger). It is best to have a cross pin thru the coupler latch mech handle but it does not need to be a lock. As you already have a lock for that purpose, use it if it fits; put a piece of heavy wire thru it if it doesn't. Likewise at the receiver/drawbar connection, simple non-locking hitch pins are perfectly acceptable as a safe mechanical connector. The various locking pins and coupler "fillers" are intended to prevent theft and tampering; towing is safe enuf without them, certainly at least for the first trip.

The correct trailer connector or adapter to match the electrical connector on your tow vehicle is vastly more important to your legality, safety, and peace of mind on your first tow. Likewise a well-adjusted brake controller (if the trailer has brakes), correctly-inflated tires, and extension mirrors are very important and deserve more time and deliberation than the prevention of theft. You can worry about that after you get it home.

jack
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:53 PM   #27
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 841K9 View Post
Pins have almost no articulation. Especially when connected to a drawbar.
Sorry for the confusion - I thought "pin" referred to a euro-style pin-and-jaw coupling, but it appears to mean a clevis and pin. I agree that the clevis setup would have minimal roll or pitch articulation, and I didn't expect anyone to use that other than on a farm or on a cheap lawn tractor (like mine, where my plan is to upgrade to a common ball and coupler some day).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 841K9 View Post
Pintles in the most common solid mount have almost the same amount as a standard ball hitch.

Now, the rotating pintle on my m1008 is a completely different beast.
I should have said pitch articulation (not roll); pitch movement is about 90 degrees up or down for a pintle hook and ring - that's why I have heard of some people using them off-road, including Darrel who described his setup in 1973 Compact II by Hunter. Of course if you want serious off-road articulation, you can use something like a Treg.

Pin-and-jaw and pin-and-clevis are dead simple, but still need some safety device on the pin. Pintle hook-and-ring doesn't appear to me to have any obvious stay-coupled advantage, except that it might be a long way to bounce the ring up over the end of the hook, versus the distance to bounce a socket coupler up off of a ball. Of course, because they are normally used in heavy-duty applications, using any of them on a light-duty trailer would be durable, due to the construction rather than anything inherent in the pintle hitch design. Depending on either to work without a proper latching mechanism would be risky, but they usually come with something suitable.

And now back to pinning/locking that conventional ball coupler...
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:07 AM   #28
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Scamp 13 - 2011
California
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Regarding the Master 187XD Titanium, or probably most any of the other coupler or hitch locks, cutting might be difficult but picking is a whole other thing. Take a look at this YouTube video.
OUCH!
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