hint for Safety chain attachment

[Roger C H]

When we received our Trillium it attached to the car with a "Quick Link"

We have replaced that with a "Clevis Slip Hook with latch"(2600#):

(I was unable to transfer the pictures, so please go to the website)

http://doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageId=363

It is ever so much easier to hitch and unhitch now, especially in the rain!

[Kevin K]

Like this?

[Raya]

Or maybe like this? (has latch)





http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/campb...949.html?ref=42

Couple of notes:

1) In boating, we have not had good luck with shackles and the like made in China. I favor those made in the USA and tested, such as the ones made by Crosby company. Also consider that these may be heavily shock loaded when/if something does happen. Also, all the force may be on one hook alone.

2) Edit: I'm not too familiar with sling hooks, so I checked the Crosby Group's always-excellent catalog for information. There is no specific percentage of strength rating to subtract for angled pulls, like there is with a shackle, however they do specify that the load should make a straight pull on the hook. I think this has more to do with making sure the load cannot fall on the latch instead of the hook. So as long as you can be sure the load stays on the hook, it seems like you retain full capacity. Here were the pertinent notes:

a) When placing two (2) sling legs in hook, make sure the
angle between the legs is less than 90° and if the hook or
load is tilted, nothing bears against the bottom of this latch.
(See Figure 3 & 4.)

b)Latches are intended to retain loose sling or devices under
slack conditions.

c) Latches are not intended to be an anti-fouling device.

Sorry if this is more than anyone ever wanted to know about sling hooks,

Actually, after doing the small bit of research to answer my own question on sling hooks, I've decided that I really need to put a bit more thought into my own safety chain system, and check things over to make sure that everything is rated adequately and that I don't have any "weak links." I have some locking S-hooks but will have to check them over for a rating. Meanwhile, I think I'll use the "link" style ones again.

Thanks, Roger, for bringing this up - safety chains are probably one of those slightly "forgotten" areas in trailering (not being as 'fun' as mods and such).

One thing is that the typical "S" hooks have always made me a bit nervous. How is one supposed to have faith that they will remain in the "hook" position if something goes awry?

Raya

[Roger C H]

Here is an alternate hook, thanks to Brian B-P:

http://doitbest.com/Chain+hooks+and+load+b...-sku-752402.dib

Actually, the hooks I bought were from an Ace Hardware in Sahuarita, AZ. Raya, I think that is the exact hook.

In my boating days, I just brought the two ends of the chain together and placed a bolt and nut through the links and tightened them. Of course boating doesn't have days on end of usage, unless you go on a long trip, and this method effectively yields one chain instead of two separate ones. I did have it unhook once. Forgetting that I had towed a smaller trailer earlier, I had the 1 7/8" ball on the TV instead of the 2". The hitch came off going over some railroad tracks, but the chain did keep the (boat) trailer attached. Luckily I wasn't going very fast. The stanchion for the boat did put a nice dent in the TV, however.

I saw the clevis hooks with the latch on a big motorhome as a safety attachment for his auxillary vehicle and I thought, "I can do that!" It was such a burden to unscrew the "Quick Link" in order to detach the TV from the Trill that I was avoiding it as much as possible.


Another question for the experianced people out there: My Trill seems to ride tongue high when hooked to my TV. Would there be any advantage to lowering the TV ball, that is buying a lower hitch?

[Raya]

I can't immediately tell where that second hook is made, but I know the former Campbell Chain Company (now Cooper/Campbell) as a US chain manufacturer, so that probably bodes well (I trust metal items made in the US much more). The Crosby Group is another company like that, as is ACCO.

I would say that yes, you should get whatever drop receiver it takes to make the trailer tow more-or-less level, keeping in mind you also want about 10% tongue weight. I usually end up level or even just a tiny tad nose down. But never nose up.

Looking at your rig, if it were mine, I would want the trailer tongue a bit lower.

Raya