Hitch popped off -- Replacement - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-23-2014, 10:39 AM   #29
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*chuckle* You have to be amused at someone who tries something like that HERE.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:35 AM   #30
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*chuckle* You have to be amused at someone who tries something like that HERE.
Yep, with our duty bird-dog "Willy Ketchum" on the job, the slippery ones seldom get by....

Now about that BigFoot dealer..... Moderators, where are you?
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:45 AM   #31
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Never heard of a 2-1/8" coupler or ball. Sure isn't commonly available. 2-5/16" maybe?

jack
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:52 AM   #32
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U-Haul used to use an odd over- size ball on their trucks to have control over was being towed with their trucks, at least they did in 1976.
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:09 PM   #33
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Checking the gap between the hitch and ball to determine if the hitch is totally seated on the ball.

Be extremely careful when you place your finger under the hitch to test the gap. A friend and/or spouse assisting by jiggling the trailer / hitch can prove to be a painful situation should the hitch suddenly seat itself. (Past experience speaking)
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:33 PM   #34
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Same thing

I had the same experience. The issue was that the bolt that holds the catch on the reverse side of the hitch was a little loose (also I was driving over a speed bump, rain gutter far too fast). I tightened that up and have not had a problem since. Scared the crap out of me when it happened. Fortunately the trailer landed on the handle of the tongue jack and no damage was done to anything besides grinding down the metal handle some.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:14 PM   #35
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I've had 1 trailer to disconnect while being towed... my fathers pontoon boat trailer, I had stored at Aunt's house in IL. She moved and had a family member to tow it to new house. They decided to tow it with a 2in. Ball not the 1 7/8in Ball. It was assisted by BFH to go on.
When I picked it up and towed down to AL. I had it to disconnect after hitting a expansion crack in road at 55 mph. Safety chains worked "flat spotted" spare tire. The couplers was stretched to almost fit 2in ball. I had to change out my 1 7/8 ball for 2in force on to continue trip. I had to cut off old coupler and replace after I got to AL.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:55 PM   #36
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BFH, Big Friendly Hammer?
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:40 PM   #37
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I think that the O.P. has left the building......
As if he was ever here....?
Yeah, from his public profile:
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Old 07-19-2014, 07:34 AM   #38
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I am a regular poster here and will verify that some of the cheap hitches out there will pop off if the weight is too light on the tongue. I recently had a utility trailer pop off the hitch and put a nice smile on my plastic bumper cover when dropping a big load in. The trailer coupler was adjusted right and pinned down and verified before hand. The weight was dropped into the trailer too far back behind the axle and the coupler slipped off the ball like it wasn't even clamped down. This is an extreme case though and shouldn't happen with our trailers as we don't dump 2500 pounds in to take with us, at least not all in one shot anyway

Joe
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:51 PM   #39
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I've been reading this thread with great interest as I'm curious to learn more about this adjuster screw under the tongue that's been mentioned several times. Thinking I need to check that before I leave on my trip Thursday. Have towed a pop up before my scamp and never knew about this. Could someone please tell me what/.where to look for this and how to tell if it's snug enough to the ball?

I always do an eyeball test after hooking up yo make sure that all I see is the neck of the ball. I grease the tongue and ball with lithium and Also use a padlock.

In addition after hooking up, is this finger test to see if the tongue is next to the ball? If I find thus adjuster screw, how snug do ya go?

Now you got me thinking. And the only time I ever hear a clunk is when I'm jacking the coupler off the ball when I unhook from the truck after arriving at site or home. It makes a clunking noise then pops up/off. Normal?


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Old 07-29-2014, 10:12 PM   #40
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Honestly, if everything is hitched up right and you use the tongue jack to determine if everything is good-to-go... like raising the rear of the tug... it doesn't matter whether you have a 2" ball or a 1-7/8 inch ball. That extra 1/8 inch isn't going to make it better.

Pay attention! Hookup properly and don't assume!

There is a reason your knees bend. If you don't trust the hitchup. Get down and LOOK to make sure the EARS on the trailer tongue are around the BALL of the tug.

Easy Peasy
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:07 AM   #41
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Dear Donna,

I've always been a super vigilant tower. Do walk arounds and visual/physical checks before and during travel at stops. However, I've never done the type of check you and others have mentioned

Is this correct? Hitch up, close coupler lock. Then, use tongue jack to raise hitch while all is attached. If it starts to raise the butt of your tug, all is good to go?

I hunk scamp 13 tongue jacks are rated for 2000 pounds, so thus should be ok, right? Donna, you know I'm a newbie!

Warmly,
Wendy


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Old 07-30-2014, 08:59 AM   #42
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Wendy Lee, Not every trailer hitch coupler has an adjustment screw. Amongst our three boat trailers, two utility trailers and one camper (all 2" lever-style couplers), only one of the six couplers has an adjustment screw. And truth be told, I think I trust it less than the others, because if the friction spring around the screw would happen to break, there is nothing to keep the screw from backing itself out due to road vibrations and loosening the claw's pinch around the ball without you knowing it. If a 2" coupler is designed and manufactured correctly to fit around a 2" ball, there really shouldn't need to be any adjustment. The main point is to MAKE SURE the coupler is completely down on the ball before activating the lever to pinch the claw UNDER the widest circumference of the ball. If so, lock it down, and it's a done deal. The problem comes when, for whatever reason, you don't notice that the bottom of the coupler is resting on the edge of the ball, rather than going completely down on it, and when you close the lever, you actually lock the claw ABOVE the widest circumference of the ball. When you do that, you essentially lock the coupler above the ball, and the only thing keeping the coupler on the ball is the weight of the tongue resting on the ball. One little bump, and off it slides. So, next time you hook your camper up, make special note pulling the lever all the way up, making sure the claw moves fully to the rear, drop the coupler completely down on the ball and push the lever all the way down until it locks. Now look up underneath the coupler to make sure the claw has slid into a position UNDER the widest part of the ball. Once you know the coupler is locked onto the ball, look closely at the vertical gap between the bottom of the coupler and the top of the hitch bar. It will probably be only 1/2" to 3/4" or so. From then on, just keep an eye on that gap. If the next time you hook up, the gap is that same 1/2" to 3/4", then things are looking good. BUT, if you hook up, and that gap is strangely larger, say 1" to 1 1/2", then something is wrong and you better take a closer look before pulling off. Long explanation of a fairly simple concept. One final personal piece of advice - don't put your fingers where they might get smashed. Murphy's Law will eventually catch up to you. Just my two cents worth....
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