Hitch popped off -- Replacement

[Randy P.]

Originally Posted by CampyTime

In addition after hooking up, is this finger test to see if the tongue is next to the ball? If I find thus adjuster screw, how snug do ya go?

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Wendy, the easiest way I found to make this adjustment is by taking the appropriate sized ball, 2" in my case, and inserting it into the hitch and latching it closed. Move the ball around by hand. It should move freely but not be loose and clunky. The adjustment nut is up inside the ball socket so you'll have to lay on your back to see it.

Relatively small adjustments make a noticeable difference.

[Kenny Strong]

Cathie the latch lock will go in place, when the latch is not properly positioned. The latch is spring loaded, when the lever is lowered, the latch that surrounds the ball can pinch the ball on the largest circumference and not under the ball as it should. The fact that the lock will go thru the lock hole gives one the impression that the latch is secure and in place correctly. You drive off and the latch pops off the ball. This is what this whole topic is covering. Do not assume the the hitch and ball are in alignment, you have given a fine reason why the trouble will happen, " I do not believe that our latch lock will go in place if the latch is not latched all the way. " But it will, because of the internal clam shell configuration, of the latch, it allows it to set incorrectly if one is not being observant, most times it can be put in place blindfolded, sometimes it just might hang up and the bolt can be put in place. Guess what then happens? One is then inclined to say well it was on correctly because the bolt was locked and in place !

Later Kenny

[Cathi]

Kenny, I see what you are saying. We always see that the latch is all the way down and if not, we pull forward a tiny bit to get the plate in place. That is a pretty uncommon situation since most of the time, the latch will fall completely down. It is obvious to us when the coupler is not on the ball properly because our latch will not go all the way down, and as you said, we then know that the plate is apparently up too high.

Thanks for bringing up the point because it is just second nature to us to make sure the plate is where it belongs and it may not be second nature to others. Also, as I mentioned, others may not have our exact set-up as there seems to be variation among couplers.

Ours is not any problem as far as this is concerned but then we always look for the plate placement. I take it that many people do not know that there is a plate in there to get into the right place, so your explanation should help them.

[Paul O.]

Originally Posted by Kenny Strong

Cathie the latch lock will go in place, when the latch is not properly positioned. The latch is spring loaded, when the lever is lowered, the latch that surrounds the ball can pinch the ball on the largest circumference and not under the ball as it should.

This thread is already long, but the horse is not quite dead yet, so allow me beat on it some more. Here is a picture of the ball coupler that looks like the one on my Scamp 5th:

http://www.rvpartsmarket.com/Atwood-Trailer-Hitch-Coupler-3-Inch-Channel-5000-Lbs_p_342.html

and this link shows images of many ball/coupler types.

https://www.google.com/search?q=trai...=1486&bih=1070

The diagrams elucidate how they work. They are all designed so the latch closes either without the ball, or when the ball is fully seated in the pocket. The cross section views also make it clear why it is sometimes necessary to pull forward 1/2 inch to seat the ball. Yes, there is a spring, but that spring does NOT hold the ball in the pocket. If it all depended on the force of the spring to be locked, no DMV would allow it on the road. So, if it is possible to lock the latch against the largest diameter of the ball, something is broken or deformed and should be replaced.
I hope this clarifies it some.
Paul

[Paul O.]

hopefully this shows a clickable link:
80060 Atwood Trailer Hitch Coupler 3 Inch Channel, 5000 Lbs.

[Paul O.]

Originally Posted by Paul O.

The cross section views also make it clear why it is sometimes necessary to pull forward 1/2 inch to seat the ball.

I forgot to add: and why it is possible to raise the TV some before it pops out of the pocket.

[Timon]

This is why I prefer only collar, bulldog, style hitches. Once you close the jaw and slide the collar forward it's locked. There is no guessing since you cannot close the jaw with the ball part way in. It's either in or out. The only downside to one is that when hitching you may have to pull sideways to get the jaw to close. I always got around that by backing in just off to one side. Now with backup cameras that really easy to do.

The other nice thing is that there are collar lock that will lock it closed both on and off the ball. This allow you to lock the trailer when it's sitting or when it's on you TV. If you can put the lock on it's 100% hitched.

If and when we get a trailer the coupler will be a bulldog type. If the manufacture won't put one on a trailer shop will.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by CampyTime

Dear War Eagle, Are you a teacher or do you write for a living? Cheers! Wendy

Wendy, Thank you for your kind words. I'm about to wrap up a 30-year career teaching at the college level. Once retired, we plan to spend a LOT more time camping. So I hope we cross paths with you somewhere out there....

[CampyTime]

Hi War Eagle,

Teacher of 5th grade here! Alas,any years to retire. Started at 37 and 50 now.

God Bless You and enjoy that soon to be retirement! Yes indeed, one never knows when paths might cross. Would be a pleasure, that is if I'm still alive after many more years of CC state testing!


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[Brandiwhne]

I teach fifth grade and I also started teaching very late. Lol.


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[Steve Outlaw]

Originally Posted by Timon

This is why I prefer only collar, bulldog, style hitches. Once you close the jaw and slide the collar forward it's locked. There is no guessing since you cannot close the jaw with the ball part way in. It's either in or out. The only downside to one is that when hitching you may have to pull sideways to get the jaw to close. I always got around that by backing in just off to one side. Now with backup cameras that really easy to do.

The other nice thing is that there are collar lock that will lock it closed both on and off the ball. This allow you to lock the trailer when it's sitting or when it's on you TV. If you can put the lock on it's 100% hitched.

If and when we get a trailer the coupler will be a bulldog type. If the manufacture won't put one on a trailer shop will.

I agree wholeheartedly. I've rarely had any trouble getting the hitch to close. I just pull or back up an inch or so and it locks. This hitch is standard on the Oliver and has been since day one.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Timon

This is why I prefer only collar, bulldog, style hitches. Once you close the jaw and slide the collar forward it's locked. There is no guessing since you cannot close the jaw with the ball part way in. It's either in or out. The only downside to one is that when hitching you may have to pull sideways to get the jaw to close. I always got around that by backing in just off to one side. Now with backup cameras that really easy to do.

The other nice thing is that there are collar lock that will lock it closed both on and off the ball. This allow you to lock the trailer when it's sitting or when it's on you TV. If you can put the lock on it's 100% hitched.

If and when we get a trailer the coupler will be a bulldog type. If the manufacture won't put one on a trailer shop will.

Let's leave that as a matter of personal choice as there is no real evidence that the standard type of hitch is prone, whatsoever, of popping off the ball if properly connected. That said, if one can't properly connect and verify the security of their hitch, as there are many other even more complex mechanical precautions that must be made when towing, they might want to think of another form of RV'ing.

Many on this site. including moi, have the experience of 10's of thousands of miles of towing, using the common ball and coupler system without a hitch separation.

[ruscal]

The "standard" types have adjusters that would add a variable to how well they securely connect. They also sometimes can be latched above ball centerline without a strong visual clue that that has happened. Also the pawl fork can be sitting on top of the ball. The Bulldog type has no adjustment as it is made to tolerance adequate to properly capture the ball. If it were closed above ball center it would sit so high that you would easily see that it was not properly clamped. That is why I have a preference.
You have been successful for thousands of miles by very diligent and careful use of your "standard" type hitches Bob.
Lapses of attention do happen to experienced users at times.
Russ

[CampyTime]

Camping now and scary when unhooking last night. Slight grade to my site, did have chocks in place. Jacking down to raise coupler off ball and once again big final pop! Court came off ball hard, and with wood under tongue jack and foot pedestal, pedestal started to slide off wood! Yikes, I was scared and almost pooped my pants.

No confidence there so momentarily hitched back up to truck so I wouldn't flip out. Coupler went over ball fine and always does.

When I tried again to unhitch, ball came off coupler with NO pop at all. So all I can assume is that it's this concave front if coupler people are talking about and that truck ball was putting forward pressure on this concave area that coupler has to work it's way past? Must be tension as I said when I hooked back up for emergency sake and then u hooked, no pop at all and coupler always goes over ball smoothly. Do I understand this correctly now?


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[Carol H]

Originally Posted by CampyTime

Camping now and scary when unhooking last night. Slight grade to my site, did have chocks in place. Jacking down to raise coupler off ball and once again big final pop! Court came off ball hard, and with wood under tongue jack and foot pedestal, pedestal started to slide off wood! Yikes, I was scared and almost pooped my pants.


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You have learned the same way I did that using wood for blocking of any part of the trailer is not such a great idea. Wood allows things to slide on it *way* to easy - especially if at all wet. Lego type levelling blocks with their rougher surface are less likely to allow slippage.

[CampyTime]

I have the lynx levelers and from now on, will do. Thanks Carol. Do I have the other stuff right?

Cheers friend,
Wendy


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[Carol H]

Originally Posted by CampyTime

I have the lynx levelers and from now on, will do. Thanks Carol. Do I have the other stuff right?

Cheers friend,
Wendy


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Suspect I have the other stuff but the Lynx should be just as good if not better for preventing slippage as well. I use them under the rear jacks as well. Can never own enough! LOL

[C&G in FL]

Several years ago, I had a device on a camping trailer called "Saf-T-Hitch." I do not believe it is still made, perhaps they were not making any money. It was a heavy pivoting hinged bar that bolted to the tongue of the trailer. After getting the coupler on the ball, the bar swung forward and up and locked in place with what I recall was a spring loaded pin. The bar itself came up to a point where it was positioned 1/4-1/2 inch directly below the shank of the ball. Should the coupler try to "pop" off the ball, it could not rise high enough because the bar restricted upward movement of the tongue once it was locked in place. I thought it was a great safety device and wish it were still being manufactured/sold.


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[Paul O.]

I would like to add a bit about using chocks, but before I do, let me preface this by emphasizing that we learn by reading AND doing. If there is any slope to the site, it is good to put the chocks in place and then let the trailer rest against them while still connected. That way the trailer stays put when unhooking. You can do all the pushing and kicking the wedge chocks in place, and the trailer is still going to move a bit. Ideally both chocks should share the load equally.
And an extra note on parking a trailer on a hill: if it is steep, it might be a two person job to actually pull away. There are write-ups on that topic, possibly in your tow vehicle manual.

[CampyTime]

Hi Paul, I did have the chocks in place before unhitching. With the combination of the " popping" of the coupler off the ball, and the grade and the fact that the trailer is inclined rearward when taking coupler off ball, my jack pedestal stand started sliding off wood. Even with chocks ointment place it was scary as hell.

Truck must have rolled forward a bit when I put it in park, putting force in concave portion, front of coupler.

I never unhook trailer without chocks. Bad business.


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