Hitch popped off -- Replacement - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-08-2014, 10:33 AM   #71
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This is why I prefer only collar, bulldog, style hitches. Once you close the jaw and slide the collar forward it's locked. There is no guessing since you cannot close the jaw with the ball part way in. It's either in or out. The only downside to one is that when hitching you may have to pull sideways to get the jaw to close. I always got around that by backing in just off to one side. Now with backup cameras that really easy to do.

The other nice thing is that there are collar lock that will lock it closed both on and off the ball. This allow you to lock the trailer when it's sitting or when it's on you TV. If you can put the lock on it's 100% hitched.

If and when we get a trailer the coupler will be a bulldog type. If the manufacture won't put one on a trailer shop will.

I agree wholeheartedly. I've rarely had any trouble getting the hitch to close. I just pull or back up an inch or so and it locks. This hitch is standard on the Oliver and has been since day one.
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:38 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Timon View Post
This is why I prefer only collar, bulldog, style hitches. Once you close the jaw and slide the collar forward it's locked. There is no guessing since you cannot close the jaw with the ball part way in. It's either in or out. The only downside to one is that when hitching you may have to pull sideways to get the jaw to close. I always got around that by backing in just off to one side. Now with backup cameras that really easy to do.

The other nice thing is that there are collar lock that will lock it closed both on and off the ball. This allow you to lock the trailer when it's sitting or when it's on you TV. If you can put the lock on it's 100% hitched.

If and when we get a trailer the coupler will be a bulldog type. If the manufacture won't put one on a trailer shop will.
Let's leave that as a matter of personal choice as there is no real evidence that the standard type of hitch is prone, whatsoever, of popping off the ball if properly connected. That said, if one can't properly connect and verify the security of their hitch, as there are many other even more complex mechanical precautions that must be made when towing, they might want to think of another form of RV'ing.

Many on this site. including moi, have the experience of 10's of thousands of miles of towing, using the common ball and coupler system without a hitch separation.
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Old 08-09-2014, 01:39 PM   #73
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The "standard" types have adjusters that would add a variable to how well they securely connect. They also sometimes can be latched above ball centerline without a strong visual clue that that has happened. Also the pawl fork can be sitting on top of the ball. The Bulldog type has no adjustment as it is made to tolerance adequate to properly capture the ball. If it were closed above ball center it would sit so high that you would easily see that it was not properly clamped. That is why I have a preference.
You have been successful for thousands of miles by very diligent and careful use of your "standard" type hitches Bob.
Lapses of attention do happen to experienced users at times.
Russ
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:17 PM   #74
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Camping now and scary when unhooking last night. Slight grade to my site, did have chocks in place. Jacking down to raise coupler off ball and once again big final pop! Court came off ball hard, and with wood under tongue jack and foot pedestal, pedestal started to slide off wood! Yikes, I was scared and almost pooped my pants.

No confidence there so momentarily hitched back up to truck so I wouldn't flip out. Coupler went over ball fine and always does.

When I tried again to unhitch, ball came off coupler with NO pop at all. So all I can assume is that it's this concave front if coupler people are talking about and that truck ball was putting forward pressure on this concave area that coupler has to work it's way past? Must be tension as I said when I hooked back up for emergency sake and then u hooked, no pop at all and coupler always goes over ball smoothly. Do I understand this correctly now?


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Old 08-20-2014, 02:28 PM   #75
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Camping now and scary when unhooking last night. Slight grade to my site, did have chocks in place. Jacking down to raise coupler off ball and once again big final pop! Court came off ball hard, and with wood under tongue jack and foot pedestal, pedestal started to slide off wood! Yikes, I was scared and almost pooped my pants.


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You have learned the same way I did that using wood for blocking of any part of the trailer is not such a great idea. Wood allows things to slide on it *way* to easy - especially if at all wet. Lego type levelling blocks with their rougher surface are less likely to allow slippage.
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:37 PM   #76
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I have the lynx levelers and from now on, will do. Thanks Carol. Do I have the other stuff right?

Cheers friend,
Wendy


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Old 08-20-2014, 04:15 PM   #77
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I have the lynx levelers and from now on, will do. Thanks Carol. Do I have the other stuff right?

Cheers friend,
Wendy


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Suspect I have the other stuff but the Lynx should be just as good if not better for preventing slippage as well. I use them under the rear jacks as well. Can never own enough! LOL
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:39 PM   #78
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Hitch popped off -- Replacement

Several years ago, I had a device on a camping trailer called "Saf-T-Hitch." I do not believe it is still made, perhaps they were not making any money. It was a heavy pivoting hinged bar that bolted to the tongue of the trailer. After getting the coupler on the ball, the bar swung forward and up and locked in place with what I recall was a spring loaded pin. The bar itself came up to a point where it was positioned 1/4-1/2 inch directly below the shank of the ball. Should the coupler try to "pop" off the ball, it could not rise high enough because the bar restricted upward movement of the tongue once it was locked in place. I thought it was a great safety device and wish it were still being manufactured/sold.


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Old 08-20-2014, 06:47 PM   #79
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I would like to add a bit about using chocks, but before I do, let me preface this by emphasizing that we learn by reading AND doing. If there is any slope to the site, it is good to put the chocks in place and then let the trailer rest against them while still connected. That way the trailer stays put when unhooking. You can do all the pushing and kicking the wedge chocks in place, and the trailer is still going to move a bit. Ideally both chocks should share the load equally.
And an extra note on parking a trailer on a hill: if it is steep, it might be a two person job to actually pull away. There are write-ups on that topic, possibly in your tow vehicle manual.
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:50 PM   #80
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Hi Paul, I did have the chocks in place before unhitching. With the combination of the " popping" of the coupler off the ball, and the grade and the fact that the trailer is inclined rearward when taking coupler off ball, my jack pedestal stand started sliding off wood. Even with chocks ointment place it was scary as hell.

Truck must have rolled forward a bit when I put it in park, putting force in concave portion, front of coupler.

I never unhook trailer without chocks. Bad business.


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Old 08-20-2014, 08:51 PM   #81
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Chocks in place. Not ointment. I'm sorry.


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Old 08-20-2014, 09:55 PM   #82
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Hand brake first. Then put it in park.
Keeps things where they are supposed to be.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:58 PM   #83
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Chocks in place. Not ointment. I'm sorry
Did you by any chance fall victim to some autocorrection or autocompletion software? Those things should be banned.
I should have been clearer on the use of the chocks. You are doing exactly the right thing to *always* use them. The point I was trying to make was that when there is any incline under the wheels, the trailer will roll down until there is some pressure against the chocks. Maybe an inch or so. There were times when I had to really push hard on them to free them, and sometimes even push or pull with the tow vehicle after hooking up.
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:21 PM   #84
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Depending on what the parking area slope is I set the chocks down and backup a bit to set the tires against them as that keeps the trailer from rolling back to the chocks on its own. I've never had a problem with any trailer sliding off of wood but maybe I've been lucky. One suggestion I have to folks that think their trailer may slide is to disconnect the 7 pin but leave the safety chains connected until your sure it's stable. If it does get away it won't go far
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