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Old 07-27-2015, 10:54 PM   #21
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
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Dang Steve, that's what I was going to suggest, you beat me to it. So much easier than using clamps or shims too.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:18 PM   #22
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Easier yet, do what I do, nothing.
When I hear the rattle, I know the hitch is still there.
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:01 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
Easier yet, do what I do, nothing.
When I hear the rattle, I know the hitch is still there.
Good one Glenn, I've got different stingers for different trailers I use, most I don't care if they rattle either .
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:52 AM   #24
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
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I put weld beads on my draw bar and ground to net fit. It was quiet for a while, then started making noise again, so I drilled the receiver on both axis and tapped threads for set screws. I located the horizontal screw close to the corner of the tube nearest the top so the set screw would not crush the draw bar, and did similarly locate the vertical screw near a corner. I used a 5/16" drill to pilot a 3/8" NC tap. I used 3/8" hex bolts for the set screws. It works well.
I just purchased a new cargo carrier for the back of the trailer that fits into a 2" receiver. It is loose as a goose and rocks all over the place. I think I will forgo the weld beads and just do a set screw starting at a bottom corner of the receiver tube and angle it up at 45 degrees. Maybe one screw can tighten both axis that way?
Russ
I can post pictures if anyone is interested in how this looks.
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:01 AM   #25
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Maybe I'm in the dark but I don't understand folks having problems with a hitch rattle. After towing for over 30 years with trailer weights from 150# to 50,000# you're going to get a bit of rattle now and then with the road conditions. All hitch combos will wear out and spread/stretch clearances over time and need to be changed out. I would call it metal fatigue of the hitch components. I've heard mine on occasion but it was always because of the road, still tracking good, turn the radio up and keep on truckin'
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:25 AM   #26
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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One of my bike racks has a threaded pin that screws into a threaded piece inside the square tube, so when tightened there is no play. For my other racks I welded a 5/8 nut on to a flat piece of steel, insert in rack tube, 5/8 bolt through hitch hole, and tighten. No rattle, no movement of the rack. Works for me, maybe not for others. Since I use several different draw bars in four vehicle hitches, and all fit differently in each hitch, I can't weld a bead to tighten them so have to use a tightener device.
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:55 AM   #27
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I had a similar issue and even tried 2 of those set ups, vertical and horizontal without success. What works for me is the "Softride" locking model seen here
Stainless Steel Locking, Anti-Rattle Threaded Hitch Pin for 2" Trailer Hitches Softride Locks SR25219
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:48 PM   #28
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Maybe I'm in the dark but I don't understand folks having problems with a hitch rattle. After towing for over 30 years with trailer weights from 150# to 50,000# you're going to get a bit of rattle now and then with the road conditions. All hitch combos will wear out and spread/stretch clearances over time and need to be changed out. I would call it metal fatigue of the hitch components. I've heard mine on occasion but it was always because of the road, still tracking good, turn the radio up and keep on truckin'
Dave,
Hitch rattling is to be expected, but still annoying.
It is sort of like being in McDonalds sitting in a booth backed up to a couple of screaming kids arguing over a plastic toy. It's hard to ignore for me even though I am sitting in the "arguing brat capitol of the world".
Sometimes silence is worth a million dollars.
Russ

Now I just have to figure out how to shut up the mud and snow tires!
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:05 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal View Post

Now I just have to figure out how to shut up the mud and snow tires!
Well Russ I spent yesterday working on that issue and it easily fixed if you are willing to part with about $1600 for new all season radials and rims for them to run around on in the spring and summer months.

Like the hitch rattle it may be one of those things you might want to learn to just live with
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:10 AM   #30
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Hmmmm... Hitch "Rattle" indicates movement between two or more parts. Movement between parts equals fatigue & wear.


The earlier comment that "All hitch combos will wear out and spread/stretch clearances over time and need to be changed out. I would call it metal fatigue of the hitch components." came as a surprise to me.


But, I have always used the "U" shaped clamp to eliminate play in the receiver and have yet to see any wear on a receiver or drawbar.


And for less than $30, silence is not only golden, it is fairly cheap and, if I do hear any noises back there I know to check it out ASAP and not just turn up the radio to fix it.... LOL



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Old 07-29-2015, 08:15 AM   #31
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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Another solution I have seen is always leave the drawbar in and eventually it will rust solid to where it's impossible to remove it, LOL
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:29 AM   #32
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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Hitch rattle isn't to big an issue with a a body on frame construction. But with a frame less uni-body construction the noise is of much greater magnitude. A louder boom sound echoing through the body. Whole different effect between my early Bronco with frame and my uni-body Nissan Pathfinder.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:17 PM   #33
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Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
Colorado
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The sloppy feel and metal-on-metal clanging of a loose fit between ball mount and receiver tube on rough roads has always annoyed me. So I finally opted for a Roadmaster Quiet Hitch (for 2" hitch) clamp just to see how well it worked. (https://www.campingworld.com/roadmas...iABEgJU3vD_BwE). To my ears and peace of mind, it was money well spent.
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:16 PM   #34
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
The sloppy feel and metal-on-metal clanging of a loose fit between ball mount and receiver tube on rough roads has always annoyed me. So I finally opted for a Roadmaster Quiet Hitch (for 2" hitch) clamp just to see how well it worked. (https://www.campingworld.com/roadmas...iABEgJU3vD_BwE). To my ears and peace of mind, it was money well spent.
It only took the one trip back home from picking up the trailer to convince me that I needed to go home and order a clamp. My hitch, the stinger and ball were brand new and good quality brands. Adjusting the receiver on the tongue helped but did not get completely rid of the racket.
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:16 PM   #35
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I use a similar product called “Hitch Vice”, and besides stopping the rattling of a loose drawbar, it also captures the bar in the reciever. The other day I made a bone-headed move. I have a locking hitch pin, and I went inside the house to get the key for the locking mechanism, but got side tracked and never put a hitch pin in, and drove around town and on the freeway for about 50 miles, and when I got home to remove the drawbar, I noticed my mistake.
I don’t think they acknowledge this as a safety benefit.
Dave & Paula.
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:11 AM   #36
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
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Originally Posted by David B. View Post
I have a locking hitch pin, and I went inside the house to get the key for the locking mechanism, but got side tracked and never put a hitch pin in, and drove around town and on the freeway for about 50 miles, and when I got home to remove the drawbar, I noticed my mistake.
Dave & Paula.

You must have put the hurts on those bolts Dave
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:54 AM   #37
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Name: Charlie
Trailer: 2014 Lil Snoozy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
I use a similar product called “Hitch Vice”, and besides stopping the rattling of a loose drawbar, it also captures the bar in the reciever. The other day I made a bone-headed move. I have a locking hitch pin, and I went inside the house to get the key for the locking mechanism, but got side tracked and never put a hitch pin in, and drove around town and on the freeway for about 50 miles, and when I got home to remove the drawbar, I noticed my mistake.
I don’t think they acknowledge this as a safety benefit.
Dave & Paula.
Dave,

It is so easy to forget a pin. I am a little paranoid about that and check it multiple time before we pull out from anywhere. I use the screw in lock pin to stop the rattle. It works great and would prevent the pin from coming out if one forgot the lock. I am glad you had the clamp on.
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Old 05-17-2018, 06:19 PM   #38
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Name: julie
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Alabama
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Maybe unrelated but had thunks sounding from hitch on last travel adventure. Determined it was loosened bolt from ball. Almost screwed off. Word to the wise, check that bolt!
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Old 05-17-2018, 06:26 PM   #39
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julmar View Post
Maybe unrelated but had thunks sounding from hitch on last travel adventure. Determined it was loosened bolt from ball. Almost screwed off. Word to the wise, check that bolt!
A few weeks ago I found the nut on my sway bar ball mounted on the hitch drawbar was so loose I could remove it by hand! How I got so lucky that it did not fall off on the highway I do not know.

Thanks for the reminder to check all bolts and re-torque as needed.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:22 PM   #40
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Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julmar View Post
Maybe unrelated but had thunks sounding from hitch on last travel adventure. Determined it was loosened bolt from ball. Almost screwed off. Word to the wise, check that bolt!
Or once you know what you need, get a one-piece welded ball mount. No nut to check! Nothing for thief to unscrew and drive off with your trailer with the ball still locked in the coupler.
https://www.amazon.com/Brinks-3050-0.../dp/B000OEOWA6
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