Hitch ? Where to install? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-17-2013, 02:24 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by McKenna Lynn View Post
What would be the advantages of a Class III for me, if I would not be upgrading to a heavier trailer in the future.
I don't see how it matters if you get a heavier trailer or not, unless you plan to massively exceed the Subaru's rated capacity, since even a Class 2 hitch can handle more trailer (3500 pounds) than the Subaru is rated for.

The receiver box size (1.25" or 2") is not strictly determined by the class, but a Class 3 hitch would typically have the larger box. Since weight distribution (WD) systems are not available for 1.25", this would matter if you needed WD for a larger trailer... if Subaru allows WD (I don't think they do).
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:00 PM   #16
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I vote to have an independent installer install the wiring. Brake lights and such use a plug in connector but donít forget part of the installation involves getting a properly routed and designed charge line so your brakes and battery get recharged and are isolated when the engine is off and installing a controller where it works for you. Plus with an installer you will take your trailer and they will set you up properly with the right ball, right height hitch and make sure everything is working properly before you ever leave the driveway. They can show you how to operate the controller. With the dealer you probably gonna end up with just the hitch and the wiring harness adapter plugged in unless they sub out to a contractor to give you a whole package. I doubt you will ever find a trailer specialist at the dealer.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:02 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
Lynn
The Subaru hitch is one of the best looking hitches, but it is also the most expensive and the most difficult to install because the rear bump wrapper has to be removed. The other issue with the stock hitch it has the smaller opening (1.25" I think). Not only is the weight rating lower but most accessories (bike racks) work better with the 2" hitch receiver.
Most of the after market 2" receiver hitches hang below the bumper and are very visible on the Outback. On the Outback Forum someone posted about the Torklift Stealth hitch and a lot of people like it. I have a low hanging 2" Curt Hitch, if I were to buy one today I would buy the Torklift Stelth hitch. If you want to see an install check out Outback video.
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Torklift Central ECO Series-Stealth Trailer Hitches
A hitch shop was recommended to me here, and their website focuses on Draw-Tite hitches. Do you know about them?
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Old 09-21-2013, 04:57 PM   #18
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A hitch shop was recommended to me here, and their website focuses on Draw-Tite hitches. Do you know about them?
The largest towing equipment company in North America is Cequent. Draw-Tite is one of their brands; their other hitch brands include Reese and Hidden Hitch, and are listed across the top of their web page. Although these were separate companies years ago, their product lines are now almost entirely integrated - you can get most of their hitches under any of the three brands. Most U-Haul hitches are also actually made by Cequent.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:21 AM   #19
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The Subaru hitch ...
... Not only is the weight rating lower...
What is the rating of the Subaru factory hitch? Is it any lower than the car's ratings?
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:29 AM   #20
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I would be amazed. My preference is to stick to 2" hitches, but I also have two pickups with 2" hitches, which is why the subie does, also.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:56 AM   #21
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I too an a fan or 2" receivers. There is a currently active discussion going on right now at Airforums.con that I have been following.

To WD or Not.... Sport 16 - Page 2 - Airstream Forums

New Ford F150 pick up. To use or not to use a WDH for a 16' Airstream?

Considering the glass eggs are lighter the wind may want to blow them around.

The 2" receiver costs just a few dollars more and you then have the option of going with a WDH which will smooth out the overall ride and provide an extra degree of safety/stability.
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:02 AM   #22
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I too an a fan or 2" receivers. There is a currently active discussion going on right now at Airforums.con that I have been following. To WD or Not.... Sport 16 - Page 2 - Airstream Forums New Ford F150 pick up. To use or not to use a WDH for a 16' Airstream? Considering the glass eggs are lighter the wind may want to blow them around. The 2" receiver costs just a few dollars more and you then have the option of going with a WDH which will smooth out the overall ride and provide an extra degree of safety/stability.
you cannot use a WD hitch on a Subaru (or most other modern cars). It puts too much stress on the unibody structure. Also, many trailers are not rated to take the additional frame torque that WD hitches apply.

Still, I would also recommend a 2" hitch because it will not limit your choice of ball mount, bike rack, hitch silencer, or other accessories.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:19 AM   #23
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you cannot use a WD hitch on a Subaru (or most other modern cars). It puts too much stress on the unibody structure. Also, many trailers are not rated to take the additional frame torque that WD hitches apply.
Modern unibodied vehicles are quite stout. Stronger than most folks think.

I am aware of a number of Subaru's that are taking advantage of a WDH. I always recommend a towing professional to be involved with this type of installation.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:32 AM   #24
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Modern unibodied vehicles are quite stout. Stronger than most folks think...........
I think there is something to this whole unibody thing. I've heard that a lot of the newer airplanes are going away from steel frame rails.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:43 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
Modern unibodied vehicles are quite stout. Stronger than most folks think.

I am aware of a number of Subaru's that are taking advantage of a WDH. I always recommend a towing professional to be involved with this type of installation.
When I spoke to Subaru regarding the reason for their not wanting a WD used I was told it was due to their AWD system. It may impact handling in not a good way... No mention if it having anything to do with weak attachment points. Having said that i am aware of a number of people on this forum who have put WD on their Subaru and some have towed thousands of miles over a number of years & no reports of hitch failure, which does not support the notion by some here that the issue is the vehicle isn't stout enough to use a WD.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:46 AM   #26
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I think there is something to this whole unibody thing. I've heard that a lot of the newer airplanes are going away from steel frame rails.
For sure TG. Even "incomplete", unibody vehicle have success using a WDH.

*Note this rig was set up by a towing setup professional.
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mustang andy trailer.JPG   mustang Stang hitch.JPG  

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Old 09-22-2013, 11:49 AM   #27
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When I spoke to Subaru regarding the reason for their not wanting a WD used I was told........
All info regarding towing should be noted/investigated.

I am interested in the Subaru response but have questions.

Is this info from a document we can review or was it an of the cuff remark from a Subaru salesman, service rep etc????

thnxs C
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Old 09-22-2013, 04:48 PM   #28
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*Note this rig was set up by a towing setup professional.
Professional (in this context) = anyone paid to do something, in contrast to an amateur, who does it free of charge

There is not, to my knowledge, any certification standards or process for a "towing professional", other than
  • licensing of drivers, who operate rigs with trailers
  • professional engineers, none of whom are found at the most popularly referenced RV dealership

You are responsible for your rig. If you disregard the manufacturer of the tow vehicle on the advice of someone selling and installing hitches (or someone in a forum like this), that hitch dealer will not take responsibility for your rig, and their advice does not absolve you of your responsibility.
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