Hitch ? Where to install? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-22-2013, 05:10 PM   #29
MC1
Senior Member
 
MC1's Avatar
 
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Nest fan, Airstream Sold
Ontario
Posts: 2,006
Definition of a professional.......

"a person engaged or qualified in a profession."

Works for me
__________________

__________________
MC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2013, 05:36 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
Definition of a professional.......

"a person engaged or qualified in a profession."

Works for me
When I worked in the auto industry, I only met a few engineers that were PEs. Most didn't bother to take the PE exam, though others thought it might help them if they decided to branch out and do some consulting. In any case, those with the PE certificate were not any more qualified or smarter that the others, IMHO. The big difference that I saw in competence was experienced based.

I guess if one was sued, the PE might be something to cling to, to claim competence.
__________________

__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2013, 07:27 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
Definition of a professional.......

"a person engaged or qualified in a profession."
It's amusing that by this definition, someone who is absolutely unqualified and incompetent can claim to be a professional!

Ever looked at what constitutes a profession? There is no "towing" profession, except by the most minimal definition of something for which you need some skill... by that standard, the kid who sells you an oil filter at Walmart is an automotive maintenance professional. Real professions - medicine, law, engineering, teaching, accounting - require accredited training and working subject to a governing authority (such as a medical board, professional engineering association, etc.)

It would be nice if there were some authority related to services involving towing equipment.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2013, 07:49 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
When I worked in the auto industry, I only met a few engineers that were PEs. Most didn't bother to take the PE exam, though others thought it might help them if they decided to branch out and do some consulting. In any case, those with the PE certificate were not any more qualified or smarter that the others, IMHO. The big difference that I saw in competence was experienced based.

I guess if one was sued, the PE might be something to cling to, to claim competence.
I don't think there are a lot of engineers working in the auto industry with no education.

So did anyone review the work of those guys? At an auto manufacturer or supplier, my guess is yes.
If their work turned out to be faulty, does the manufacturer take responsibility? Again yes - it happens every day.

So when your hitch guy says "yeah, you can use that", who reviews the decision and does the hitch place take any responsibility? I didn't think so...
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2013, 08:04 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
All info regarding towing should be noted/investigated.

I am interested in the Subaru response but have questions.

Is this info from a document we can review or was it an of the cuff remark from a Subaru salesman, service rep etc????

thnxs C
Well for starters its documented in Subaru's owners manuals that they don't recommend the use of a WDH.

For whats its worth in regards to who told me the reason, it was the service manager (about 20 years with Subaru) for one of the largest Subaru dealers here on the West Coast and he actual tows with his Subaru's as well. Was very helpful in getting my car set up correctly for towing when I first got it and Subaru wasnt offering any of their own hitches etc. Told me he has a trailer thats a bit heavy on the tongue as well, so he did some investigating of his own as why and spoke with some powers that be inside Subaru about the reasons for not using a WDH. I would take his word for it over a hitch installer any day as he knows Subaru's far better.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 12:55 AM   #34
Member
 
McKenna Lynn's Avatar
 
Name: McKenna Lynn
Trailer: Considering Scamp 13
Colorado
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
What is the rating of the Subaru factory hitch? Is it any lower than the car's ratings?
From what I know, they don't have a 2 inch. So that's why I was leaning toward an independent.
__________________
McKenna Lynn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 01:03 AM   #35
Member
 
McKenna Lynn's Avatar
 
Name: McKenna Lynn
Trailer: Considering Scamp 13
Colorado
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post

When I spoke to Subaru regarding the reason for their not wanting a WD used I was told it was due to their AWD system. It may impact handling in not a good way... No mention if it having anything to do with weak attachment points. Having said that i am aware of a number of people on this forum who have put WD on their Subaru and some have towed thousands of miles over a number of years & no reports of hitch failure, which does not support the notion by some here that the issue is the vehicle isn't stout enough to use a WD.
I am concerned about voiding my warranty, by doing anything Subaru recommends against ( hitch weight > 200, or WDH). This is the main reason I feel I can't go with with 16 ft Scamp with my Outback 3.6. It would put me over the hitch weight. I've also been told that it could enable insurance to deny any claim. I feel the Scamp is actually smaller than I want but can't pull 16 ft because of the warranty/insurance constraints.
__________________
McKenna Lynn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 01:05 AM   #36
Member
 
McKenna Lynn's Avatar
 
Name: McKenna Lynn
Trailer: Considering Scamp 13
Colorado
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post

All info regarding towing should be noted/investigated.

I am interested in the Subaru response but have questions.

Is this info from a document we can review or was it an of the cuff remark from a Subaru salesman, service rep etc????

thnxs C
The WDH issue is addressed in the manual.
__________________
McKenna Lynn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 01:08 AM   #37
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by McKenna Lynn View Post
From what I know, they don't have a 2 inch. So that's why I was leaning toward an independent.
The reason I was asking about the hitch rating was to confirm that no other hitch - other than the factory hitch - is required to use the full capabilities of the Subaru. While the 2" size is desirable, that size is not the only relevant factor.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 01:13 AM   #38
Member
 
McKenna Lynn's Avatar
 
Name: McKenna Lynn
Trailer: Considering Scamp 13
Colorado
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
The reason I was asking about the hitch rating was to confirm that no other hitch - other than the factory hitch - is required to use the full capabilities of the Subaru. While the 2" size is desirable, that size is not the only relevant factor.
I'm still learning all this. But I was under the impression the Scamp required a 2 in. And if Subaru doesn't make that, then I have no choice but to go to a hitch installer, regardless of other factors.
__________________
McKenna Lynn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 01:20 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by McKenna Lynn View Post
I'm still learning all this. But I was under the impression the Scamp required a 2 in.
Learning is good!

The Scamp requires a 2" diameter ball; that can be mounted by a receiver of any size. The ball size and receiver size are unrelated; the receiver size is the size of the square box opening in the receiver.

There are some hitch parts which are only available for a 2" receiver, but none of them are needed to tow the Scamp. Some members are convinced that a weight-distributing hitch (WDH) system is desirable; if you decide it is (even though Subaru says not to use one), then you need a 2" receiver.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 03:50 AM   #40
Senior Member
 
Roger C H's Avatar
 
Name: Roger
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 1300 "Homelet"/2014 Subaru Outback "Rosie"
Washington
Posts: 2,172
Registry
Smile Our Experience

We tow our 2009 Trillium 1300 with a 2000 Subaru Outback 2.5L.
Our owner's manual also says no WDH because of the effect it has on the AWD system.
We had our hitch installed by our dealer. We bought the car new with a hitch. It turns out that the dealer, Auburn Subaru, had it installed by Torq Lift. Torq lift also installed our electric brake controller when we got our Trillium.
All have been working fine. Our weight, according to Fred Simpson is 1840#.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!

Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
Roger C H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 07:02 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
.........
So when your hitch guy says "yeah, you can use that", who reviews the decision and does the hitch place take any responsibility? I didn't think so...
Your point is valid, but in the context of the progression of this discussion from a specialty towing service like CanAM, I would say that there is informal regulation. The initial regulator is the laws of physics. If you generate a towing solution that is inherently unstable, there will be almost immediate consequences. Longer term, there is the power of the marketplace. Every single person that buys a towing setup has the power to share their experience widely on forums like this, on social media like Facebook or Yelp and to complain to government regulators or the BBB. Additionally, a towing shop needs to keep their liability insurance, providing an additional level of scrutiny to their practices. In spite of the ongoing criticism here of Can Am specifically and hitch shops in general, I've seen no evidence of a systemic issue. Perhaps I've missed something and someone can show me a list of unhappy Can Am customers - I'd welcome it.
__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 10:43 AM   #42
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by McKenna Lynn View Post
I'm still learning all this. But I was under the impression the Scamp required a 2 in. And if Subaru doesn't make that, then I have no choice but to go to a hitch installer, regardless of other factors.
Lynn as Brian suggests, Scamp doesn't require you to have a 2" receiver bar only a 2" ball. You need to check the actual trailer as many of their trailers including the 16' only had an 1 7/8" ball for years and its only been a few years since they switched to a 2" coupler on the 13' as well.

Subaru sells what is known as Class I or Class II hitches only. In your case the Outback is rated depending on which model you have to tow 2800lbs or 3000lbs so you should get a Class II hitch for it as it is rated to tow up to 3500lbs which is more than the Outbacks towing capacity. The draw bar receiver box on a Class II hitch as mentioned is not 2" but that does not mean you can not get a 2" ball to put on the draw bar for it. Subaru does not sell a Class III hitch which is the one that takes a 2" receiver bar. The reason Subaru does not offer their own Class III hitch is because their cars are not rated to tow the weights that hitch is rated to tow. Their cars are also not designed for the use of a WDH (for whatever reason one wants to believe) which would require a Class III hitch.

As simple as that.

Based on my personal experience of 6 years of towing with an Outback, I happen to agree with Subaru that its a piece of equipment that is not needed or necessary to use if the trailer is within the cars towing specs. Have towed through wind storms strong enough to put semi trailers sideways on the highway in front of me and have experienced no issues with the trailer - in fact didnt even notice the wind.

Some people want the 2" receiver bar for bike rakes as they claim them to be more sturdy - again I have managed to purchase a very high end bike rack that fits the Class II hitch and dont notice any difference between its stability and the one used previously that have a 2" receiver bar. It seems that some folks forget that you still need to watch the tongue weight specs even with a bike rack - pretty easy to over load that back end of the car if you put a heavy duty bike rack and load it up with heavy mountain bikes for example.
__________________

Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
5th wheel hitch to hitch pull jackstrr Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 9 07-19-2011 05:19 PM
"U-Hitch" Rear Hitch Receiver Tim Ryce Modifications, Alterations and Updates 9 03-12-2009 05:05 PM
Trailer Hitch Install needed - Vancouver BC Booker B. Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 06-27-2008 11:37 AM
Hitch Aid / Bumper Guard Behind Hitch Ball? Parker Buckley Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 12 01-27-2008 04:05 PM
Hitch install questions Quint Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 19 01-18-2006 12:29 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.