Honda Ridgeline and an Oliver Legacy 23 - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 07-17-2018, 08:39 PM   #43
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Well, OK, until you start up a long grade and the transmission begins to hunt between 4th and 5th. Back and forth, back and forth. Lots of wear and annoying. Limit it to 4th until you get to the top of the hill.

Then you start down a long grade and it goes into the highest gear. Now it won't hold back as well and the brakes get more use. Limit it to a lower gear and take some load off the brakes.

Then you have to merge at the top of an up-hill ramp. Just when you back off the throttle a bit to squeeze in, it up-shifts twice. Then you try to adjust your speed and bit and have to wait for it to downshift twice to get you some power. If you limited it to 4th, you would have instant throttle response as needed. Then let it decide when you are going with the flow and settled in.

The computer cannot look ahead at the general conditions like you can. No harm in helping it decide in order to save wear, reduce heat, save brakes or increase throttle response.
After 45years of buying only manual transmissions, I bought my TC with a 6spd automatic.
I read up on it and was impressed and skeptical at the same time.
It now has 18000 miles on it and it has exceeded my expectations.
It never hunts for a gear in drive, but it will downshift halfway up a steep grade when towing which opens the torque converter momentarily and blips the engine a couple hundred RPM. In Sport Mode it has a more aggressive shift strategy and a manual shift mode which I occasionally and unnecessarily use to anticipate a coming grade. (A tip of the hat to your last paragraph)

It uses engine braking only in manual or Sport Mode.
I anticipate that my 10spd automatic on my new Ranger will be even better (if that's even possible).


There's still a lot that can be done with a stick which an automatic can't match,but the trade-offs are getting more worth it every year(I am loathe to admit)
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:50 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
Big fan of the TOW/Haul mode on my Ford. Only "problem" is to remember to turn it on next time I start the truck (like after gas stops). I find it most useful when going downhill, it does a very nice job controlling speed.

It’s the first TV I have owned with it. Kind of like a backup camera, once you’ve had one you won’t go without.
My experience using the tow / haul mode and my remembering to turn it on echoes yours . Thank God my wife has a perfect memory !!
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:59 PM   #45
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No one has said a word about cruise control. I presumed that when I got my '11 F-250 at it's primitive best or worst (it has crank windows to match the crank driver) that ordinary autos and SUVs would have gotten the cruise control that provides engine braking first and that nearly option-less trucks would get it last.

At any rate, cruise control provides modest engine braking, tow haul provides more aggressive engine braking, and the manual control of the automatic will do anything you want that won't destroy it.

Could it be that 7 years after I bought my truck, autos and SUVs still don't have cruise controls which will decelerate you??
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Old 07-18-2018, 05:59 AM   #46
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Another fan of Tow/Haul (F150.) It never hunts when climbing and the gearing on descents is spot on. I often use it when driving in the mountains, even w/o the trailer.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:26 AM   #47
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My FJ Cruiser has a 5-speed transmission. It downshifts a lot more when towing in cruise control than without, so I generally don't use cruise to tow.

The Lite House is pretty light so I don't stay in 4th all the time. If if downshifts to 4th on a hill I move the shifter to hold it in 4th until the climb is complete, to avoid "hunting". Seems to work. I also added an auxiliary transmission cooler for good measure.

Now, if you have one of those new 8, 9, or 10 speed transmissions things might be different, not sure what the best approach would be.
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:08 AM   #48
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Consider renting a Uhaul or other trailer that is a bit bigger than the one you want to buy. Load it up to weight you determine that the real trailer will weigh. Tow it over terrain you expect to encounter. That can give you a real world idea of what you can do.

Ive done this twice with tow rigs and trailer combos that Ive wanted to buy.

Ive learned from vehicle design engineers that tow capacity is based on several factors and is underrated in the US by about 20%. Same with hitch weight. Another factor they use is the real ability of the vehicle to tow a specific weight at at least 45mph over the Eisenhower pass in CO. (Not kidding, they really do)

A weight distribution hitch or Firestone aftermarket shock airbags could resolve the hitch weight problem if you are close or a bit over your rating. You can also pack the trailer to balance the load to lower the hitch weight some. Keeping in mind that the hitch weight should be close to 10% of trailer weight loaded.

As far as traveling minimalist. I had a truck/trailer combo that was right at my limits empty. I packed what I needed that I wouldnít be able to get on the road. Kept it to just what I needed and made stops along the way for everything else like groceries, water for trailer etc. Kept water load to 3 to 5 gallons in trailer for hand wash and toilet use until I got to destination. Traveled all over America for thousands of miles that way without a problem! Just had to be careful on what I needed and didnít really need on any given point of the trip.
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Old 07-21-2018, 12:28 PM   #49
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I have a friend who has a car hauler trailer and the next time he moves his Kubota tractor he said I could try it with my Ridgeline if I wanted. Sounds like a good test for what the Ridgeline can do.


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Old 07-21-2018, 01:07 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by trainman View Post
I have a friend who has a car hauler trailer and the next time he moves his Kubota tractor he said I could try it with my Ridgeline if I wanted. Sounds like a good test for what the Ridgeline can do.


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Just let me know when you conduct the test so I can stay home and off the road. !!
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:17 PM   #51
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There is no absolute up or down, yes or no, on what will tow what. I could hook up my 23' Oliver to my Samurai and tow it around my place. Or do it with my quad, for that matter.

But pulling long grades and stopping during emergencies is the deal. Stopping on a curve can be very dangerous. Keeping the speed under control on long downgrades is critical. The heavier the tow vehicle, compared to the trailer, the less likely a sway problem will take you off the road and end up upside down.

The closer the trailer weight is to the TV weight, the thinner the margin of safety. People have towed unfair loads all over the place and gotten away with it, but that is no reason to advise others that it's "no problem". That is, unless you are refering to towing the trailer to the other side of the yard with your Samurai and not refering to towing over the Sierra range in a hail storm.

I've even had my one ton Ram skip sideways a bit on a dry pavement corner while braking and it weighs nearly twice what the Oliver does.

I'd Like to tow my rig with a Ridgeline, I like Hondas, and I know it would actually tow it, but I also know it would not be safe in anything but ideal conditions. So, no thanks. I want a much larger safety margin.
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:22 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by trainman View Post
I have a friend who has a car hauler trailer and the next time he moves his Kubota tractor he said I could try it with my Ridgeline if I wanted. Sounds like a good test for what the Ridgeline can do.


trainman
How will you test out the real world surprise emergency stop, or icy pavement corner, or long downgrade speed control, or sway from poor weight distribution? Can I watch?
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:42 PM   #53
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But what about optimal setup??

We once saw a Big ol Ford Excursion towing a mid size popup.

The popup was swaying back and forth like a drunk'n hula dancer. That rig was not safe even though the Ex had a 9,000lb tow rating! On the other hand, well I won't go into pages of details but rigs that are set up right with the correct connection hardware and correct adjustments can be very safe regardless of their physical size and weight. So many factors come into play. Consider all factors.
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Old 07-21-2018, 04:39 PM   #54
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Guys don't worry, this Ridgeline is just what I have now to pull the Casita, if we decide in the future to upgrade to the Oliver, I'm sure the 3/4 ton pickup will also be included in the upgrade. I'm not the type of person to do things just to get by, in fact I'm pretty much overkill on things like this. Plus even if the Ridgeline would work, I probably would not be happy with the V6 power the Ridgeline has to offer and a big new V8 or diesel would be in my driveway pretty soon. Thanks again for all your answers as I posted this post mainly to see how everyone felt about a tow vehicle that was just on the borderline to do the job or not. I still may do the trailer/Kubota test just to see what happens, but knowing ahead that it will never workout in actual safe trailer pulling. Steve you are safe for the time being, as for me I'm staying inside as it's 108 degrees here in Ft. Worth as I type this.

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Old 07-21-2018, 04:47 PM   #55
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rigs that are set up right with the correct connection hardware and correct adjustments can be very safe regardless of their physical size and weight. So many factors come into play. Consider all factors.
The devil is in the details.

So many times people ask if their vehicle will tow a certain trailer. They may have never towed before, are not aware if their trailer has brakes or not, no idea if they have a brake controller, no idea how old the tires are and no idea about proper weight distribution, sway control, or tongue weight.

If a rig is set up correctly and towed carefully, it's likely there will be no problem, even if the trailer weight is at the rated tow capacity. Those cases are of little concern.

The ones where everything is wrong and someone is telling them to "go for it", concern me.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:00 PM   #56
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Guys don't worry, this Ridgeline is just what I have now to pull the Casita, if we decide in the future to upgrade to the Oliver, I'm sure the 3/4 ton pickup will also be included in the upgrade. I'm not the type of person to do things just to get by, in fact I'm pretty much overkill on things like this. Plus even if the Ridgeline would work, I probably would not be happy with the V6 power the Ridgeline has to offer and a big new V8 or diesel would be in my driveway pretty soon. Thanks again for all your answers as I posted this post mainly to see how everyone felt about a tow vehicle that was just on the borderline to do the job or not. I still may do the trailer/Kubota test just to see what happens, but knowing ahead that it will never workout in actual safe trailer pulling. Steve you are safe for the time being, as for me I'm staying inside as it's 108 degrees here in Ft. Worth as I type this.

trainman
Weíre having sunny days with highs in the upper 70ís to low 80ís and night time
temps in the 50ís . Iíve never experienced 108 deg and God willing I never will
Been to Texas several times and it was always to hot for myliking
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