How to Repack Wheel Bearings- 2009 Scamp 13' - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-02-2016, 08:43 PM   #29
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Name: Jack L
Trailer: Bigfoot B-17 CB
Washington
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Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
ALLLLRRIIIGGGHHHTTTT....

So, some interesting things happened tonight in our 1st attempt.
First, we humorously missed the step about loosening the lug nuts on the wheel prior to getting this whole thing started... so, after some how managing to wiggle the front AND rear bearings out with the wheel still on, we had to put the whole thing back together, lower the trailer (to get some pressure) loosen the lug nuts and then start over again. Good learning experience.

On a quick visual inspection, the bearings seem to be in good shape. The grease did not seem 'burnt' or discolored, or dirty. I will know more after I get the bearings cleaned off and inspected more thoroughly.

Now to the interesting part... I think I might have breaks??? I found some wires and what looks like something that is 'break-ish'... check out the pictures here. If I do indeed have breaks, I am pretty sure they are not hooked up (the dealer said there were no trailer brakes). How do I test them?

Here is a link to a folder of pictures, let me know if you are unable to access. https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6
Yep, You have brakes on your trailer. Next step to get them working would be to get a brake controller installed in your tow vehicle.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:00 PM   #30
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 128
Ok, cool. When we had uhaul put on the hitch we had it set up so the brake controller could be added easily, for just such an occasion!

How do I know if the brakes are ok? They look kind of rusty to me, but I don't know what they are supposed to look like.

Will I be able to test the brakes and see if they work prior to reassembling the wheel?
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:16 PM   #31
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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You really really need to go to Dexter Axle's site!! I have a 2010 Scamp with the 2200# Dexter Axle. And I'm 99% sure yours will as well. They have SUPER documentation for their axles- installing/packing new bearings, AND, testing the brakes! They give voltages, amperages, etc... and explain it all in detail. They tell you what to look for on the magnet, etc. You REALLY need to do this before proceeding!!

I can tell by looking, the brake area looks rusty. So you will probably want to use some "brake cleaner" and make sure the brake shoes can still pivot and not try to freeze up when applied. In other words, make SURE your brake shoes are "free". I had a slight problem with this last year...

I would still watch some YouTube videos for more tips. You may find some ideas on how to help with your brakes. If you have a 7-pin plug for your TOW, there's a way to test/activate your brakes with pins. But I'll stop there.... Get you a brake controller and Good luck.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:51 PM   #32
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Ok, headed to Dexter's Axle site now.
Just watched the videos... the 'how to replace the bearings' one is perfect, because this is exactly the same as the unit we have. Should be easy to proceed from here. They did talk about some other parts though, that I am unsure about.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:43 PM   #33
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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If you inspect the cones and they're not pitted or show other signs of wear (same as the bearings) then there's no need to remove them. But if I took them out, I certainly would replace them while I was at it.

They're talking about "seals" and something I would DEFINITELY replace since I have it apart- especially since the rubber in the seal is 7 yo.

Again, Dexter thoroughly explains how to inspect the magnet. Your shoes looks like they have quite a bit of padding left. But all I can say, I would try and clean off the shoes as best as possible (MAKE SURE you dont blow any dust/rust into the hubs/bearing cavities!!!).

I can tell you, these 13' Scamps are easy for the most part on their axles/tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Ok, headed to Dexter's Axle site now.
Just watched the videos... the 'how to replace the bearings' one is perfect, because this is exactly the same as the unit we have. Should be easy to proceed from here. They did talk about some other parts though, that I am unsure about.
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:21 PM   #34
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Darral,
Thanks for the clarifications. I will inspect the cones but replace the gaskets.

I will get a better look at the brakes tomorrow, and work on getting the brake controller added to my hitch so we can see if these puppies work!

Thanks again everyone! Keep those suggestions coming if I have missed anything!

-ginny
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Old 08-03-2016, 12:58 AM   #35
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Name: Glenn
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
British Columbia
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I repacked the wheel bearings on my tent trailer. Used about $20 worth of grease to fill up the hub and topped it off pumping grease in through the Bearing Buddies I bought.
I had half a gallon of dirty solvent to dispose of somehow. Had grease slinging out of the hub, coating the tires, blew the hub cap off somewhere around Chilliwack when the grease heated up.
Spent weeks cleaning the grease from under my fingernails.
Then I discovered that you could pay somebody to do it for you for $69 ( repack and inspect existing bearings ). They had a tank that recycled the solvent, and I could watch.
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Old 08-03-2016, 01:56 AM   #36
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Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
California
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Spent weeks cleaning the grease from under my fingernails.
Then I discovered that you could pay somebody to do it for you for $69 ( repack and inspect existing bearings ). They had a tank that recycled the solvent, and I could watch.
, I've done the maintenance and repairs on all my vehicles for years but am glad to let others do it now. I'd rather bush the sawdust off me than deal with the grease too. But the new folks to TTs do need to know how it all works and that's what this site is good for....info .
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:01 AM   #37
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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So Raz, you are suggesting I clean (and inspect) the existing bearings and repack?
Yup thats what most people do - just clean up the bearing, inspect for signs of wear and discolouration and put it back on but with a NEW seal.

There is no reason to replace the bearings as long as they are not showing signs of wear.

Have had some bearings on the trailer for years with no signs of wear but have had to replace one set after only a year - would not have known they were not wearing well if I did not do a yearly inspection and repacking. Had another bearing failed in less than three months..... in the later case I only became aware of the issue due to heat off the hub.

Trailer bearings are not sealed as well as car bearings are and therefor have a higher probability of contamination particularly by moisture. The fact they often sit around more than cars is another issue.
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:05 AM   #38
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
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Spent weeks cleaning the grease from under my fingernails.
Then I discovered that you could pay somebody to do it for you for $69 ( repack and inspect existing bearings ). They had a tank that recycled the solvent, and I could watch.
Care to share where you found that deal? Now that I have 4 to do I am starting to think along the same lines. Not to mention the cleaning off of the grease is hard on my nail polish!
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:24 AM   #39
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Then I discovered that you could pay somebody to do it for you for $69 ( repack and inspect existing bearings ). They had a tank that recycled the solvent, and I could watch.
You can pay someone to do just about anything you need done. And there are some jobs it's best to leave to a professional. Dentistry comes to mind. But when you pay someone else, you miss the opportunity to learn and the satisfaction doing a task right brings. I like being as self sufficient as I can. It avoids the argument when the guy at iffy lube forgets to tighten the drain plug. Raz
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Old 08-03-2016, 05:46 AM   #40
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Trailer: 2013 EggCamper & 2011 Silverado Reg Cab 4x4
Ohio
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I have a question about the EZ Lube axle from Dexter that is on some of our FGRV's. I understand the air in the hub theory and not to fill the hub with grease - but the EZ Lube axle (on my previous 2005 Casita, and my current 2013 EggCamper) instructions say to slowly pump grease into the zerk until new grease comes out. This fills the hub entirely with grease! Thoughts?
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:30 AM   #41
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Dave hit the nail on the head for me... while I am sure I may eventually get lazy enough to pay someone else to do this, I feel it is super important to understand how to do it myself. On the side of the road, cars wizzing by is NOT the place I want to be watching you tube videos and attempting this for the 1st time lol. Besides, I never would have figured out I actuslly have brakes!!

Off to work for me now... I will pick up the gaskets I forgot yesterday, and work on the project more this evening, more pics to come. Thanks all!
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:05 AM   #42
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Name: Jack L
Trailer: Bigfoot B-17 CB
Washington
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I went back and looked at your brake photos and you may just need a good cleaning. I did not see anything alarming in the photos. Dirt and rust accumulate on brakes and they need occasional maintenance. You can buy a complete new brake assembly for about $33 per wheel from Etrailer.com or your local Dexter source should have them for a reasonable price. Either way, it's not a complicated fix.
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