How to Repack Wheel Bearings- 2009 Scamp 13' - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-03-2016, 09:39 PM   #57
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Let me clear the air on one thing about Dexter....you can talk to their own engineers and get different "opinions"! I've done it.

Anyway, one thing from their conversations has come out is this: The EZ-LUBE was designed exclusively for BOAT TRAILERS! They're continually backing in water and will get water eventually into the hubs.

What does EZ-lube do? You pump the grease in until the new comes out- the idea is that you're going to push out any "water" that has gotten in there as well. Does it work? That I cannot tell but Dexter said it will help.

About the cavity being filled? I WOULD NOT take a grease gun and fill the cavity AFTER installing new bearings/seals!! I repeat, I WOULD/WILL not do that!! Ask any professional mechanic (and I've talked to many on this subject) and they simply clean/replace, pack (bearings AND cones) and reassemble. A cavity full of grease is simply going to cause the hub and bearings to run hotter. (Dexter will also tell you this when you do the grease replacement with the EZ Lube.) Most likely, you will see the rubber cover puff out and possibly blow some grease out. I had mine puff out when I had some brake shoes sticking before I figured out what was happening. The hubs were only going to apx 125 deg and caused this! You would be SHOCKED at the temps Dexter told me the hubs/bearings/grease could get up to and not hurt them...so the extra grease-caused temps should be ok...but the temps will increase slightly.

On the temps, i know what my Scamp ran brand new from the factory- over 1100 mile trip. I use and WILL use that as a benchmark as they age. I have not greased nor repacked my bearings since buying the trailer new in 2010. The wheels are not loose, they spin freely and still run the SAME temps as they did from day 1 coming home from Backus. I take mostly short trips and am not worried about breaking down on the interstate. My trailer now has nearly 10,000 miles on it. I keep the Scamp up on jacks and spin the wheels regularly when not in use. I dont recommend this practice for anyone else, but it's worked for me and I feel comfortable with it based on my experience in the mechanic and machine shop world in which I was raised and am still a part of. But as I said earlier too...a 13' is MUCH easier on it's axle system so keep that in mind!

A word of caution: DEXTER DOES provide a chart on "compatible" grease!! It's imperative you go by this if you're going to use the EZ-LUBE system. When questioning them exactly WHAT grease they used....they admitted it depended on what year the axle was made and what they were using at the time....sheesh...... Go by their chart!
EDIT: and yes they recommend the "Kendall Blue" that Floyd mentions. So did my Bro-in-Law who is a local mechanic here in our town.

This axle/bearing/tire business can be VERY confusing and frustrating.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Excellent, thanks for the info!
I am sure this will stir a whole different debate, especially since there appears to be conflicting info even within Dexters provided info. The 'how to video' i posted from Dexter is EXACTLY the same axle that I have. Yet, in the video they do not do any sort of grease gun fill? They only apply liberally to certain areas, and otherwise leave space... as others have recommended. And yet, if you have an EZ-Lube Axle, according to Dexter, you're supposed to 'fill 'er up' (for lack of a better phrase).... so... which is it?

*steps back slowly* Let the debate begin!!

(after you all answer my brake question above! lol)
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:02 PM   #58
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Let me clear the air on one thing about Dexter....you can talk to their own engineers and get different "opinions"! I've done it.

Anyway, one thing from their conversations has come out is this: The EZ-LUBE was designed exclusively for BOAT TRAILERS! They're continually backing in water and will get water eventually into the hubs.

What does EZ-lube do? You pump the grease in until the new comes out- the idea is that you're going to push out any "water" that has gotten in there as well. Does it work? That I cannot tell but Dexter said it will help.

About the cavity being filled? I WOULD NOT take a grease gun and fill the cavity AFTER installing new bearings/seals!! I repeat, I WOULD/WILL not do that!! Ask any professional mechanic (and I've talked to many on this subject) and they simply clean/replace, pack (bearings AND cones) and reassemble. A cavity full of grease is simply going to cause the hub and bearings to run hotter. (Dexter will also tell you this when you do the grease replacement with the EZ Lube.) Most likely, you will see the rubber cover puff out and possibly blow some grease out. I had mine puff out when I had some brake shoes sticking before I figured out what was happening. The hubs were only going to apx 125 deg and caused this! You would be SHOCKED at the temps Dexter told me the hubs/bearings/grease could get up to and not hurt them...so the extra grease-caused temps should be ok...but the temps will increase slightly.

On the temps, i know what my Scamp ran brand new from the factory- over 1100 mile trip. I use and WILL use that as a benchmark as they age. I have not greased nor repacked my bearings since buying the trailer new in 2010. The wheels are not loose, they spin freely and still run the SAME temps as they did from day 1 coming home from Backus. I take mostly short trips and am not worried about breaking down on the interstate. My trailer now has nearly 10,000 miles on it. I keep the Scamp up on jacks and spin the wheels regularly when not in use. I dont recommend this practice for anyone else, but it's worked for me and I feel comfortable with it based on my experience in the mechanic and machine shop world in which I was raised and am still a part of. But as I said earlier too...a 13' is MUCH easier on it's axle system so keep that in mind!

A word of caution: DEXTER DOES provide a chart on "compatible" grease!! It's imperative you go by this if you're going to use the EZ-LUBE system. When questioning them exactly WHAT grease they used....they admitted it depended on what year the axle was made and what they were using at the time....sheesh...... Go by their chart!
EDIT: and yes they recommend the "Kendall Blue" that Floyd mentions. So did my Bro-in-Law who is a local mechanic here in our town.

This axle/bearing/tire business can be VERY confusing and frustrating.
Sounds complicated!

http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/produ...s/E-Z-Lube.pdf

I find that the EZ-LUBE system works as advertised, however...

Notice the CYA disclaimer which could be construed as contradictory.
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:02 PM   #59
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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I did follow the grease chart provided by Dexter, and I bought NLGI #2 Mystik JT6 Hi-Temp Multi-Purpose Grease.

I am going to fidget with the breaks a little bit tomorrow to see if they are OK... any suggestions on how to confirm they are not seized up would be great. Also, any suggestions on how, if at all, to clean the pads would be great. They are a little rust covered. I dont know if I should just use a dry cloth, a damp cloth, or any sort of solution?? I know not to use any oil/lubricant.

I am concerned the actuator arms are seized up- they don't seem to move at all if I pull outward on the brakes a bit, but I don't know if this is a good measure.

There is some good info in this .pdf I plan to follow on brake maintenance.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...ric_Brakes.pdf
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:06 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
I did follow the grease chart provided by Dexter, and I bought NLGI #2 Mystik JT6 Hi-Temp Multi-Purpose Grease.

I am going to fidget with the breaks a little bit tomorrow to see if they are OK... any suggestions on how to confirm they are not seized up would be great. Also, any suggestions on how, if at all, to clean the pads would be great. They are a little rust covered. I dont know if I should just use a dry cloth, a damp cloth, or any sort of solution?? I know not to use any oil/lubricant.

There is some good info in this .pdf I plan to follow on brake maintenance.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...ric_Brakes.pdf
friction will take care of the rust on the braking surfaces, Springs and such use Brakleen and a little WD40.
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:11 PM   #61
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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I was hoping someone would say WD-40. That stuff is liquid gold.
I will use very very sparingly, but I figure it would be normal for me to be able to pull a little and get a bit of movement, which right now I cannot do.
I will be very careful not to get the WD-40 on the outside of the brake pads.

Any other suggestions are welcome!
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:38 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Collins View Post
After all is said and done - there's a lot more said than done.

Being "handy" is one thing, but being skilled is another.
Replacing and repacking bearings is a messy job, and if not done right can lead to more trouble. Go to a reputable trailer shop, and let them do it.
Then how would you EVER get from "handy" to "skilled"?
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Old 08-04-2016, 06:49 AM   #63
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Trailer: 2013 EggCamper
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Hey Darral,

I hear you and I have to agree with you!!! I used to be into boating big time (hence my userid Scarab) but now prefer the road trips and relaxation of FGRV's much more!! When I found out my FGRV had the EZ lube (boat axle) I was excited!!

I'm guessing the grease expands in both methods. Yours, the cap does not bulge out because there is air in the cavity for the grease to go to. The filled method the cap bulges out due to no air gap. I'm guessing both run similar temps, or if the filled method is hotter - not by much - and still WELL under temp limit specs.

I like the EZ method because it does not allow the bearings to ever go dry, pushes moisture out (air pockets and hot/cool cause condensation), and you feel confident they are always fully greased and fresh. I also scoop some of the extra grease from the cap once done pumping to create an expansion air pocket - no more bulging cap. And I like it because - its EZ.

Now don't get me wrong - if I buy a used trailer, I tear apart and replace/inspect/repack - just to know where I am at - then I fill with EZ method and use same grease from there on (Valvoline Durablend because the stores always carry it - and its on the list).

I'm guessing with proper attention, both of our methods will work perfectly and not leave us on the highway!!
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Old 08-04-2016, 06:59 AM   #64
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Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
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In your pictures I notice you have removed one of the magnets. Do make sure that it is secured with the little clip and the spring that goes behind it is in good shape. I had one come loose. Not good.

Also, Bob's suggestion of checking the adjuster is a good one. A frozen adjuster later will require you to take things apart. Raz
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:25 AM   #65
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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I've always removed the adjusters, cleaned and lubed the threads, usually with an anti seize compound. If you are trying to actually pull on the shoes, that's near impossible as the springs are pretty stiff. Otherwise move the lever that the magnet is on to actuate the shoe movement. I've always cleaned any glaze off the shoes with 80 grit sandpaper. I recently bought a set of brakes from etrailer, the complete assemblies, and it appears one has had some kind of failure after 500 miles, causing an error code in the controller. Can't check it out as our son has that trailer and is 8 hours from me, so I ordered a replacement and had it sent to him. I was a truck mechanic for 25 years, probably did at least a couple brake jobs per week on average, although 90% were air brakes. Don't know if that qualifies me to comment on how to do wheel bearings, but I've learned to not do that here.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:49 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
...I recently bought a set of brakes from etrailer, the complete assemblies, and it appears one has had some kind of failure after 500 miles, causing an error code in the controller. ...
Off hand, I cannot think of anything that would cause an error code to show up on a controller other than an electrical problem. It could be as simple as either a failed ground or broken positive wire to the brakes / magnet and not a defect in the new brake assemblies. If not that, then maybe a failed magnet. It should not be too hard to diagnose, although the eight hour drive is an obstacle.
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:44 AM   #67
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Thanks for the response JW. However, I include a pic that I took early on last year before taking a 800+ mile round trip from Tenn to Foley, AL (Gulfshores) and back. This is EXACTLY how it looks from the factory. As I said earlier- never greased. You can see some air space in the cavity. When the "bulging" took place (during a test pull), I popped one of the rubber covers loose and air came out. Maybe Scamp/Dexter DID fill the cavity but you can see from this pic, it's not 100%. Both sides look the same and that's why I chose to leave well enough alone for now.

Anyway, while on the trip to Gulfshores, I checked my hubs while stopped at the gas stations and NEVER had any "heat" issues on the way down. When I knew I was going to be checking the hubs, I would zero out my brake controller until I was stopped (mostly at the gas pump) and check the hubs. A couple of times on the way down and I was done until I started back.

IF I was to plan a long interstate trip- like many on here do, I probably would disassemble and check my bearings, repack and check the brakes. But again, right now, I'm down to short/close trips with my Scamp. I despise having it on the interstate.

Before I get "jumped" about zeroing out my brake controller, I would do this only on long exits and gear down (I drive a manual shift) and the truck has NO problem stopping both. Then a mere 20-30mph into the filling station I was perfectly safe. I would always dial it back before exiting the truck. If in heavy traffic, I leave it fully active.

[QUOTE=JWScarab;601758] Hey Darral,

I hear you and I have to agree with you!!! I used to be into boating big time (hence my userid Scarab) but now prefer the road trips and relaxation of FGRV's much more!! When I found out my FGRV had the EZ lube (boat axle) I was excited!!

I'm guessing the grease expands in both methods. Yours, the cap does not bulge out because there is air in the cavity for the grease to go to. The filled method the cap bulges out due to no air gap. I'm guessing both run similar temps, or if the filled method is hotter - not by much - and still WELL under temp limit specs.
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2010 Scamp 13 aft 8K miles & 5 yrs .jpg  
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:38 PM   #68
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Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Off hand, I cannot think of anything that would cause an error code to show up on a controller other than an electrical problem. It could be as simple as either a failed ground or broken positive wire to the brakes / magnet and not a defect in the new brake assemblies. If not that, then maybe a failed magnet. It should not be too hard to diagnose, although the eight hour drive is an obstacle.
A few weeks after the initial installation, and about 500 miles, is when the code appeared. We did meet up with our son at a campground mid way between our homes. I was not about to Pull the wheels off there. All wiring was new. As a quick diagnosis I cut the power wire at the right brake and the code went away so I'm assuming the problem is in that right brake, possibly the magnet. Next time I buy brake assemblies I'll go for the higher priced Dexters that etrailer sells, not the cheaper brand.
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Old 08-04-2016, 06:26 PM   #69
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 97
Ok, 1 last question (hopefully!!)

Please see attached photos. After a long run around with the guy at the auto parts store, he found what he said were the correct grease seals for L44649.

They look a little different than what was on there, but i THINK the difference is a single lip seal vs. a double... though after looking at pictures, it may just be that this is completely the wrong part.

Also, it is clear that when this seal is installed and flush with the hub, it will not touch the bearings... there will be a few millimeters gap. This is normal? Or is this grease hub not thick enough? (though the original one is quite thin... so I suppose this is how it is supposed to be)

I keep editing this post as I think of new stuff because noone has commented yet lol. What I am finding is I need seal 10-60, but what I bought was National Seal part 204507. I find 2 different pictures for this part online... one looks like what I am supposed to have, one looks like what I bought... I think I may have an engine oil seal? Oy.

https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:12 PM   #70
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Well, leave me to my own devices long enough, and I will probably figure it out on my own. It appears that I definitely have the wrong part.

I found this really handy graphic that confirms I need a 10-60 seal. I found this really handy graphic, and was able to get the alt seal (the 1st one wasnt in stock) at my local auto parts store. #474276

http://www.federalmogulmp.com/en-US/...al%20Guide.pdf

Final re-assembly tomorrow. Then a QUICK breakdown of the left side of the trailer (should take 1 hr rather than 3 days lol) and then to get the brake controller installed, so that we can confirm if the brakes are actually functional or not!
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