How to Repack Wheel Bearings- 2009 Scamp 13' - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-05-2016, 03:54 AM   #71
Raz
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Trailer: Trillium 2010
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As this is a popular axle, most RV places will carry the seal. It should say 7" x 1 1/4" on the package which refers to the drum size.. The local RV place here carries the Tekonsha brand. A 5603 is the correct seal. I've had good luck with them. Raz
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Old 08-05-2016, 06:43 AM   #72
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raz View Post
As this is a popular axle, most RV places will carry the seal. It should say 7" x 1 1/4" on the package which refers to the drum size.. The local RV place here carries the Tekonsha brand. A 5603 is the correct seal. I've had good luck with them. Raz
In hindsight, a local RV place may have been the easier route... I just assumed auto parts store would work.

The part I got last night is for that size axle, according to the chart I posted from national, so I think I am on the right track now!!! (Finally!)
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:00 PM   #73
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Ok,
the 1st wheel went back together succesfully (amazing what you can do with the correct parts!) and then the 2nd wheel came off and went back together in less than 45 min. I feel very comfortable that this is something I can do again in the future.

A few follow up questions/issues:
1. I do not (yet) own a grease gun, so while I was able to thoroughly clean the bearings, shaft, and other exterior areas... I did not shoot new grease into the ez-lube axle and push the old grease out. Is this an issue? I can take it back apart pretty simply and do this as needed.

2. When I dissasembled the left wheel, I found the brake was in significantly better condition. They look like completely different brakes compared to what is on the right side. Is this concerning? Should I just order the $45 brake kit and replace the rust-bucket looking brakes to look like the ones on the left, or should I just get over this whole rust thing and not care about how they look? ALSO, very important, I realized I am missing a piece on the right side brake. The little clip that prevents the magnet from slipping forward) is missing. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to replace this part immediately or the next time I disassemble the hub?

3. After re-assembling the left wheel, there is an occasional faint clicking or clacking sound. It sounds maybe something rubbing in the brake area... but it is so faint (and not as frequent as each rotation of the tire... more like every 3 turns or so) I never would have heard it unless I put my ear right up to the wheel (which I did). There is NO wiggle or play in the wheel or hub. Everything is very solid. Thoughts? (My plan was to not worry about it until I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday of this next week, and see if the brakes even work- then see if the sound remains after the brakes engage and re-engage. Is this foolish? Am I missing something major?

Thank you all as usual. Pictures of the left side brake have been added to the photo album here for your inspection:https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:06 PM   #74
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Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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As long as you used "compatible" grease, not "cleaning" out the EZ Lube shouldnt be a problem...especially if you never intend on using it. I havent.

I've heard some "problems" occuring if that clip is not on the magnet. I cant give you advice personally, but if you dont get the answer you need here, call Dexter or eTrailer and I'm sure they can tell you what can happen.

That "faint" scrubbing you hear is normal for e-brakes. That's the magnet sitting against the hub. It threw me a few times as well. Especially when we owners are as paranoid about the bearings as we deserve to be! When the brakes are applied, the pull of the magnet gets stronger with the more brakes that are applied. In other words, the more brakes- the more voltage- the more voltage the stronger the magnet pull and more braking will take place.

I've given you the basics and the others will fill in with "Pro" advice. Good job and your learning experience will be invaluable in the future...and YOU will be helping others like yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Ok,
the 1st wheel went back together succesfully (amazing what you can do with the correct parts!) and then the 2nd wheel came off and went back together in less than 45 min. I feel very comfortable that this is something I can do again in the future.

A few follow up questions/issues:
1. I do not (yet) own a grease gun, so while I was able to thoroughly clean the bearings, shaft, and other exterior areas... I did not shoot new grease into the ez-lube axle and push the old grease out. Is this an issue? I can take it back apart pretty simply and do this as needed.

2. When I dissasembled the left wheel, I found the brake was in significantly better condition. They look like completely different brakes compared to what is on the right side. Is this concerning? Should I just order the $45 brake kit and replace the rust-bucket looking brakes to look like the ones on the left, or should I just get over this whole rust thing and not care about how they look? ALSO, very important, I realized I am missing a piece on the right side brake. The little clip that prevents the magnet from slipping forward) is missing. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to replace this part immediately or the next time I disassemble the hub?

3. After re-assembling the left wheel, there is an occasional faint clicking or clacking sound. It sounds maybe something rubbing in the brake area... but it is so faint (and not as frequent as each rotation of the tire... more like every 3 turns or so) I never would have heard it unless I put my ear right up to the wheel (which I did). There is NO wiggle or play in the wheel or hub. Everything is very solid. Thoughts? (My plan was to not worry about it until I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday of this next week, and see if the brakes even work- then see if the sound remains after the brakes engage and re-engage. Is this foolish? Am I missing something major?

Thank you all as usual. Pictures of the left side brake have been added to the photo album here for your inspection:https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:25 PM   #75
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Oklahoma
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Darral,
Thanks for your insight. For something as critical as bearings and brakes, I'll hope to get a few more inputs, just to make sure I am on the right track, but my gut feelings lined up with what you said, so that is good.

I am super curious to see if these brakes even work when I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday. (then there is the whole issue of how to even adjust the controller, how to know each brake is working (not just 1 side), and proper testing). I have more reading to do for sure!!

-Ginny
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:01 PM   #76
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I can give you a "quick" test method. I keep my Scamp on jackstands so this test was/is easy for me. But once you install the brake controller (and you havent said what you're getting I dont think), the brake controller has a "feedback" sequence that it goes through. Now, I'm speaking for my Tekonsha "Prodigy" which is probably the most popular bc sold. I wouldnt have anything else.

On mine, if I use the "manual" or "Over ride" lever, and when there's not trailer connected, on my read out, it will give an "nc". IF there's a trailer there and connected, it will simply give me the voltage that's being applied. It also clicks periodically and that is the "feedback" making sure the trailer is still connected. One "cheat" method I have too, I have a 7-pin plug tester I plug into my TOW 7-pin socket. It has LED's to test the signal/brakes, back up lights etc. When you apply the brake lever on the brake controller, as the voltage increases, so does the brightness of the LED. It's a QUICK way to test the TOW and it's plug for issues.

Anyway, last year, I adjusted my brakes....one side....after 5 yrs. I took the trailer for a "test pull" and noticed that the right side or curb side was getting ALOT hotter (the hub) than the left or driver's side. Without ANY brakes, both hubs ran about 90-95 deg consistently. Therefore, I knew one side had being doing most of the stopping....probably since it was new! I should have checked but there was always the "tug" when I applied my lever as I was leaving the driveway to test it...still do that.

Anyway, while on jackstands, I had the wife apply the lever as I spun the wheel. IF the brakes are working, it WILL quickly lock the wheels where you cant turn them. The brakes are working. It's easy to test BOTH sides this way. This may sound crazy, but I also adjusted the side that was running cooler (left/driver's) until now it's slightly warmer than the right side. (There's a way I did it with voltage-monitoring but that's just too deep to go into right here.) Hey the brakes work fine and I figured I should let them play "catch up" for awhile. YOu're in MUCH better shape as you've had yours off and know what shape the shoes are in. IF you're not getting brakes or one side, you will most likely need a volt meter to start trouble shooting why voltage is not getting back there. But most likely if that happens, it will be a bad "ground"..so keep that in mind.

And, let me give you a final warning...13'er brakes (7") will NOT slide the tires on pavement so dont expect them to!! Many owners have banged their heads trying to figure out what's wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Darral,
Thanks for your insight. For something as critical as bearings and brakes, I'll hope to get a few more inputs, just to make sure I am on the right track, but my gut feelings lined up with what you said, so that is good.

I am super curious to see if these brakes even work when I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday. (then there is the whole issue of how to even adjust the controller, how to know each brake is working (not just 1 side), and proper testing). I have more reading to do for sure!!

-Ginny
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:22 PM   #77
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Oklahoma
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Ugh. I had a post written then it timed out.

Anyways, Darral I followed most of what you wrote lol.

Might be a stupid question, but can I test one wheel at a time? I have 1 jack, but I can pick up a 2nd one if it is better to test the brake controller on both wheels at the same time.

I went in search of some videos (I am a visual person) and I found this one. It is super long, so by no means does anyone need to watch it, but it explained a lot for me, ESPECIALLY how to adjust the brakes with the star adjuster. I feel like I understand the whole thing soooo much more now!!

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Old 08-06-2016, 10:43 PM   #78
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If "timing out" ever happens again, just hit your "<" back arrow on your browser. "Copy" to memory what you just typed...re-log in and just "paste" it back in the window. I've used that trick MANY times.

NOW....one thing you jogged my memory. I had posted some pics on my Flickr site of how I adjusted my brakes...which way to move the lever etc. Not sure if it will help you any but you can compare it to everything else you've read/watched. I havent watched the clip yet but I will.

Here's my brake adjustment adventure from last year. ALSO, on my Flickr site is MANY mods that I've done to my Scamp. Check'm out when you get time

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57653220625545
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:01 PM   #79
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Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Yeah, back button usually works for me to, but no joy this time. Oh well, no worries!!

Pics were great, thank you!! I got a few good ideas there.

As for which way to turn the star adjuster, the guy in the video said it was really easy to figure out which way to turn it. "Take whichever way you think it should be, and it's the opposite"... seems legit to me.

New tail lights arrive tomorrow or Monday... that is the next project!
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:48 AM   #80
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ALSO, very important, I realized I am missing a piece on the right side brake. The little clip that prevents the magnet from slipping forward) is missing. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to replace this part immediately or the next time I disassemble the hub?
Replace it immediately. I lost one. The magnet came loose. Not good.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:02 AM   #81
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I would have replaced the complete brake assemblies. And since I'm having a problem with the Axle Tech assemblies from etrailer, next time I'll buy the Dexter parts even though they are double the price. I suspect the first seal you bought was a standard seal and not for the EZ lube axle. The seal does not touch the bearing.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:43 AM   #82
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
...

I went in search of some videos (I am a visual person) and I found this one. It is super long, so by no means does anyone need to watch it, but it explained a lot for me, ESPECIALLY how to adjust the brakes with the star adjuster. I feel like I understand the whole thing soooo much more now!!
..
He put jack stands under the axle. Don't do that. Support the trailer by the frame. Consider keeping the trailer hitched to the tug for added stability. That also allows you to hook up and test the brakes but be sure the tug's umbilical is not connected while working on the brake wiring (cutting and reconnecting the wires).

Good that he used the heat shrink type of wire butt connectors but not so good that he used a torch to shrink the insulation. I do it all the time but only because I'm to cheap to buy a proper heat gun. You want indirect heat - no open flame on the connector or wires. You can even see flame coming OFF the connector and/or wire insulation in the video. Liquid electrical tape could add a second layer of protection for the connection.

There are likely other criticisms but he got too far off topic for me to tolerate watching any further and I am no expert anyway. It just goes to show you that not all instructional videos are right all the time, so you have to add some common sense and know the manufacturer's information.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:25 AM   #83
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 97
Raz,
I will order some of the little brackets now (they are 4 for $6, plus what I suspect is $6 shipping lol). Unless I decide to just replace that brake unit- see below.

Mary and Bob,
I am going to give the brakes a shot after I get the controller installed on Wednesday and see if they work (especially the more rusted right one). I may replace it when I do the next bearing inspection/repack- or if I find it isn't working after I install the brake controller. Or I might just replace it instead of ordering the little bracket thingy that is missing. Haven't decided yet. Don't really want to spend the $75 bucks for a new one if this unit is still working. (no issues spending the money if it is broken of course).

Gordon,
Thanks for your insight. Yeah, I would never put the jacks on the axle, just the frame right behind/beside the wheel. Right now I have the trailer pulled up to the fence so that it is a little harder to steal (it is basically hitch IN instead of hitch OUT in the driveway) so my plan to test the controller was just to pull the car up beside but not actually hitch it up... but, get the cable to plug into the 7 pin on the hitch. In the future I will just do the work with it still attached to the car, that makes sense about the extra stability, I just didn't know if it was ok to 'hinge' the trailer up (ie the hitch is attached as normal, but the back end of the trailer is up on jacks, therefore making the hitch sit on the ball at a funny angle).

Thanks for the advice! I guess I am in standstill mode on this part of the project until Wednesday.
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Old 08-10-2016, 07:55 PM   #84
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 97
ALLLL RIIIGHHTTYY THEN.

Brake controller installed today. Here is the update:

GOOD NEWS:
Left brake, which was the one that looked 'clean' works great. I was able to get one of those little star brake adjuster tools and manually adjust, then use the brake controller, and all works properly.

BAD NEWS
Right brake, which was the 1st one I dealt with that was all rusted out looking... doesn't work. I have not taken the wires apart to test power connectivity... but just based on looks compared to the other one, my guess is it is toast.

So, unless anyone has other suggestions, I think I will be in the market for a new brake assembly.

Here are my questions:
1. Can I replace one side and not the other?
2. How do I test for power (to check before I install a new brake, just to make sure)? I have a voltmeter, but it has been quite a while since I have used one.
3. Please see the pictures in the link below. There is a gap between the brake assembly and hub, visible when I am underneath, adjusting the manual star adjustment. Is this normal, or is it supposed to be more 'sealed'?
4. Do I need to spring for a Dexter brake assembly, or is there a trusted aftermarket that is less expensive?
5. Is it best to disable my brake controller this weekend by setting it to zero, or unplugging it?

https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6

THANK YOU ALL!!
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