How to Repack Wheel Bearings- 2009 Scamp 13' - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:16 AM   #101
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
Well, my left brake is working fine, I don't really want to cut the cable and check if I don't have to.

It's the right brake that is not working. It appears to have power going to it, I'm just not sure if it is getting 'enough' power.

Based on a visual inspection of the right brake I am not surprised it is not working, it is pretty rusted out (compared to the left brake that looks almost new).... I just wanted to test for power as a 'last resort' before ordering a new brake.

Thoughts on if 4.97/5v sounds about right for a brake?
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:52 AM   #102
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
..

Thoughts on if 4.97/5v sounds about right for a brake?
My controller can be set to max voltage of anywhere from zero to 12 (or the same voltage as the tug), so it depends on that setting, and also on how far I move the manual activation lever. My controller also shows the voltage so I can check that against the reading I get at the brakes.

YMMV
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:30 PM   #103
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Ahhh. That makes sense. I didn't realize my brake controller settings directly related to voltage.

So, the controller was set at 5, and I got readings at 5... so it sounds like I am getting correct power. I can go back and read again at 2 and 10 just to compare, but if I am understanding you correctly, the power seems to be working correctly, and the brake is shot.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:04 PM   #104
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Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Well, my left brake is working fine, I don't really want to cut the cable and check if I don't have to.

It's the right brake that is not working. It appears to have power going to it, I'm just not sure if it is getting 'enough' power.

Based on a visual inspection of the right brake I am not surprised it is not working, it is pretty rusted out (compared to the left brake that looks almost new).... I just wanted to test for power as a 'last resort' before ordering a new brake.

Thoughts on if 4.97/5v sounds about right for a brake?
You could also check the voltage at the 7 pin connector on your vehicle.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:07 PM   #105
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
I know the 7 pin is working because the driver side brake is working.

I got back under the trailer and tested the brake at 2 and 10, and the voltage on the multimeter corresponded correctly. So, unless someone has other thoughts, it sounds like the power supply is fine and the brake is shot (not surprised).
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:24 PM   #106
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Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
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The voltage at the brake pin on the 7 pin should match the voltage you are getting at the brake assembly. If it does not, you have a bad connection in the brake circuit. If you have 4.97 at the brake assembly, you should have the same at the 7 pin.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:46 PM   #107
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
Ok I will double check at the TV. I assume I stick the red probe into the slot that corresponds to brakes... is the center post the ground? Or do I just ground to the frame?


Edit* looked at wiring diagram, I see one of the 7 slots is the ground.

Thanks.
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