How to Repack Wheel Bearings- 2009 Scamp 13' - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-10-2016, 08:07 PM   #85
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
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Iowa
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I think you can replace one side only.
There are complete brake assemblies with backing plate available through your trailer repair shops.
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:09 PM   #86
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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I would replace both brake assemblies, and I would buy the ones made by Dexter. I'm having a problem with the Axle Tech brakes (AKE) that I bought from etrailer. They also sell the Dexters, but they cost about double, about $60 each.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:00 PM   #87
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
ALLLL RIIIGHHTTYY THEN.



Here are my questions:
1. Can I replace one side and not the other?
2. How do I test for power (to check before I install a new brake, just to make sure)? I have a voltmeter, but it has been quite a while since I have used one.
3. Please see the pictures in the link below. There is a gap between the brake assembly and hub, visible when I am underneath, adjusting the manual star adjustment. Is this normal, or is it supposed to be more 'sealed'?
4. Do I need to spring for a Dexter brake assembly, or is there a trusted aftermarket that is less expensive?
5. Is it best to disable my brake controller this weekend by setting it to zero, or unplugging it?
You can replace just one side but I personally would not - for the cost I would start out fresh then you know what the state of each brake assembly really is. I would buy only Dexter.

A real simple way to test if you have power to one side is to jack up the side in question and plug in the trailer to the car and have someone use the manual lever on the brake controller - if the brakes are working you may hear a bit of a buzzing sound and you should feel resistance when you try and spin the tire.

I leave my brake controller in the vehicle 24/7 12 months out of the year and never unplug it - it will shut down shortly after you turn the vehicle off. The only time I change settings is at the start of every tow when I do a few test stops and adjust the controller as needed.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:19 PM   #88
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Thanks for your replies.

Carol, I know it is not working. I had the trailer up on jacks tonight, and one side works, one does not. My question about measuring the voltage is to determine if there is a power issue (IE it is not even receiving power) or a mechanical issue (IE it is receiving power but just doesn't function).

This is a 2009 Scamp with little mileage... it is pretty clear that the working brake has a LOT of life left, based on the pads. If I need to replace both I will, but seems a shame when I have a unit working quite well.

My question about bypassing the brake controller is just for this weekend... I will be taking the trailer out, but do not want to use the brakes since I only have 1 side working at this time. (Before anyone gives me a hard time about this, I just towed the trailer from Ga to Va all the way back to OK without brakes, so I am not too concerned towing it an hour from here and back for the weekend).
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Old 08-11-2016, 01:31 PM   #89
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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Scamp used a simple clamp block for the ground for the trailer brakes. This exposes that connection to corrosion especially using an aluminium lug to a steel frame with copper wire. Make sure that connection is good and the connection with the cross over wire to the other brake is good. I am guessing that you brake works on the driver's side of the trailer and not working on the passengers side. Power and ground for the brake usually runs down the driver's side of the trailer and ties into the brake activator and then crosses over to the passengers side. These are all under the trailer connections exposed to the elements and lack of proper wire support can lead to failures in the wiring. Scamps decision to use the frame as a ground conductor for the trailer brakes I don't think is a good choice. At least that is the way it in on my 1986 trailer. If you have a properly set up breakaway switch on the trailer you can pull that and then check the brake voltage at each brake connection behind the wheel. Just don't leave it on too long as it is draining your battery and the brake coils are heating up.
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Old 08-11-2016, 04:51 PM   #90
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Steve,
You are right, it is the drivers side that is working.
There is no breakaway switch, as far as I know.

Help me out on wire testing, it is VERY rusty for me.
If I disconnect the wires that come from the right side brake that connect to the wires on the frame coming from the left side brake I can check them to see if power is coming to the brake. Correct?
What are the brake wire colors, and what should I be looking for with my voltmeter?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:35 AM   #91
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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It is very important that you take these checks very seriously as you're dealing with brakes and electrical systems in your car and trailer. Damages can be severe and expensive if improperly applied. I urge you to seek professional help where prudent. I am not a professional and do not profess to be. I am sharing information to help you to make proper judgment, it is your decision on how to proceed.

See wiring diagram below. Note my 1986 Scamp didn't use the white wire as a continuous ground. White wire was connected to the frame and the frame used as 12 volt ground for the electric brakes. My electric brake coils have 2 black wires one to be connected to 12 volt ground and one connected to the blue wire that sends 12 volt positive to the brake coil when the brakes are applied. This is the same wire that crosses over to the passengers side.

hook up your trailer to your tug and plug in your trailer wiring. I would have the trailer up on stands and remove the passenger side tire. Coming out the backing plate behind the brake drum you will see 2 wires. Where these 2 wires attach to the wire coming from the the other side of the trailer brakes if there is only 1 wire it should be the 12 volt positive and the other wire from the brakes would be 12 volt ground. In the case of my trailer made in 1986 I have only one wire cross over as Scamp used the frame as ground.

On the passenger's side of the trailer brakes follow the 2 wires on the back side of the brake drum to where the wire connection for the crossover meets. Expose that connection and see if it is still properly attached. This connection must be protected from shorting to ground or you can seriously damage the electrical system in your car.

Set your meter to DC volts and probe that connection with your meter wire. One meter probe on the cross over wire and one probe on ground of the frame. You have to hold these connections while someone in your car has the engine running and activates the manual override switch on the brake controller in your car. You supposed to get a voltage reading if you don't then you have a ground or positive wire issue between the brakes on the passenger's side and the brakes on the drivers side. If you have good voltage and the brakes on the passenger's side are not working you could have a bad coil, frozen rusted brake application lever or mal adjusted brake shoes.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...gram_Scamp.pdf
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:25 PM   #92
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Steve,
These are clear, concise directions that I feel comfortable following- Thank You.

We are going out this weekend, sans brakes, so I will start on this Monday or Tuesday. I will keep you posted on the results.. I am sure I will have another question or two.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:48 AM   #93
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Remove wheel with axle blocked up and all that is needed on our old unit is a flat screw driver to remove cap (hammer may help), pliers to remove pin, grease to repack, replacement cotter pin is a good idea but may not be needed. The nut will turn by hand on ours when pin removed. Do it so often that all items work easy but if it has been sometime since done things can get sticky. Like to check break shoes every spring so pull drum off and clean out dust each spring and if a lot of driving we will check mid season, cleaning out dust from drum each time.
Wheel bearings are not good to ignore.
Any auto mechanic can help those that are not inclined to check there own.
So far our seals are ok visual inspection no leaks
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:07 AM   #94
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Name: Gordon
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North Carolina
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... replacement cotter pin is a good idea but may not be needed....


ALWAYS use new cotter pin. They are cheap as dirt and a broken one can lead to bearing damage and loss of the trailer's wheel. Not fun when you are going 65 MPH.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:02 PM   #95
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Name: Frank
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Wheel Bearing care

Never use an air hose to spin the bearing it can score the rollers and cone.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:43 PM   #96
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Never use an air hose to spin the bearing it can score the rollers and cone.
Well with all due respect, I have done this for over 25 years on bearings in the printing industry and related machinery as well as servicing all the cars I have owned my adult life, my dad although retired is/was and ASE certified master mechanic and he taught me how to clean bearings while assisting him at his automotive shop. I have never seen one score that way, but we are not trying to spin them just dry them and blow out any residue from the cleaning step. I understand the concept of scoring a bearing without grease and under mechanical pressure, but I just can't see how that could happen simply by blowing them out with an air hose...maybe I am missing something???
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:14 AM   #97
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Name: Darral
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Tennessee
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Yes... he said "spin" the bearing not blow it out.

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Well with all due respect, ............. but I just can't see how that could happen simply by blowing them out with an air hose...maybe I am missing something???
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Old 08-19-2016, 08:14 AM   #98
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Name: Frank
Trailer: Casita
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Brgs

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Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Well with all due respect, I have done this for over 25 years on bearings in the printing industry and related machinery as well as servicing all the cars I have owned my adult life, my dad although retired is/was and ASE certified master mechanic and he taught me how to clean bearings while assisting him at his automotive shop. I have never seen one score that way, but we are not trying to spin them just dry them and blow out any residue from the cleaning step. I understand the concept of scoring a bearing without grease and under mechanical pressure, but I just can't see how that could happen simply by blowing them out with an air hose...maybe I am missing something???
My info came from a brg manufacture.

No wonder you are confused....you say both yes and no in your reply.
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