How to Repack Wheel Bearings- 2009 Scamp 13' - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-07-2016, 06:02 AM   #81
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
I would have replaced the complete brake assemblies. And since I'm having a problem with the Axle Tech assemblies from etrailer, next time I'll buy the Dexter parts even though they are double the price. I suspect the first seal you bought was a standard seal and not for the EZ lube axle. The seal does not touch the bearing.
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 07:43 AM   #82
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
...

I went in search of some videos (I am a visual person) and I found this one. It is super long, so by no means does anyone need to watch it, but it explained a lot for me, ESPECIALLY how to adjust the brakes with the star adjuster. I feel like I understand the whole thing soooo much more now!!
..
He put jack stands under the axle. Don't do that. Support the trailer by the frame. Consider keeping the trailer hitched to the tug for added stability. That also allows you to hook up and test the brakes but be sure the tug's umbilical is not connected while working on the brake wiring (cutting and reconnecting the wires).

Good that he used the heat shrink type of wire butt connectors but not so good that he used a torch to shrink the insulation. I do it all the time but only because I'm to cheap to buy a proper heat gun. You want indirect heat - no open flame on the connector or wires. You can even see flame coming OFF the connector and/or wire insulation in the video. Liquid electrical tape could add a second layer of protection for the connection.

There are likely other criticisms but he got too far off topic for me to tolerate watching any further and I am no expert anyway. It just goes to show you that not all instructional videos are right all the time, so you have to add some common sense and know the manufacturer's information.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 09:25 AM   #83
Senior Member
 
Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
Raz,
I will order some of the little brackets now (they are 4 for $6, plus what I suspect is $6 shipping lol). Unless I decide to just replace that brake unit- see below.

Mary and Bob,
I am going to give the brakes a shot after I get the controller installed on Wednesday and see if they work (especially the more rusted right one). I may replace it when I do the next bearing inspection/repack- or if I find it isn't working after I install the brake controller. Or I might just replace it instead of ordering the little bracket thingy that is missing. Haven't decided yet. Don't really want to spend the $75 bucks for a new one if this unit is still working. (no issues spending the money if it is broken of course).

Gordon,
Thanks for your insight. Yeah, I would never put the jacks on the axle, just the frame right behind/beside the wheel. Right now I have the trailer pulled up to the fence so that it is a little harder to steal (it is basically hitch IN instead of hitch OUT in the driveway) so my plan to test the controller was just to pull the car up beside but not actually hitch it up... but, get the cable to plug into the 7 pin on the hitch. In the future I will just do the work with it still attached to the car, that makes sense about the extra stability, I just didn't know if it was ok to 'hinge' the trailer up (ie the hitch is attached as normal, but the back end of the trailer is up on jacks, therefore making the hitch sit on the ball at a funny angle).

Thanks for the advice! I guess I am in standstill mode on this part of the project until Wednesday.
fieldphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2016, 07:55 PM   #84
Senior Member
 
Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
ALLLL RIIIGHHTTYY THEN.

Brake controller installed today. Here is the update:

GOOD NEWS:
Left brake, which was the one that looked 'clean' works great. I was able to get one of those little star brake adjuster tools and manually adjust, then use the brake controller, and all works properly.

BAD NEWS
Right brake, which was the 1st one I dealt with that was all rusted out looking... doesn't work. I have not taken the wires apart to test power connectivity... but just based on looks compared to the other one, my guess is it is toast.

So, unless anyone has other suggestions, I think I will be in the market for a new brake assembly.

Here are my questions:
1. Can I replace one side and not the other?
2. How do I test for power (to check before I install a new brake, just to make sure)? I have a voltmeter, but it has been quite a while since I have used one.
3. Please see the pictures in the link below. There is a gap between the brake assembly and hub, visible when I am underneath, adjusting the manual star adjustment. Is this normal, or is it supposed to be more 'sealed'?
4. Do I need to spring for a Dexter brake assembly, or is there a trusted aftermarket that is less expensive?
5. Is it best to disable my brake controller this weekend by setting it to zero, or unplugging it?

https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6

THANK YOU ALL!!
fieldphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2016, 08:07 PM   #85
Senior Member
 
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 1,279
I think you can replace one side only.
There are complete brake assemblies with backing plate available through your trailer repair shops.
Wayne Collins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2016, 08:09 PM   #86
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
I would replace both brake assemblies, and I would buy the ones made by Dexter. I'm having a problem with the Axle Tech brakes (AKE) that I bought from etrailer. They also sell the Dexters, but they cost about double, about $60 each.
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2016, 09:00 PM   #87
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
ALLLL RIIIGHHTTYY THEN.



Here are my questions:
1. Can I replace one side and not the other?
2. How do I test for power (to check before I install a new brake, just to make sure)? I have a voltmeter, but it has been quite a while since I have used one.
3. Please see the pictures in the link below. There is a gap between the brake assembly and hub, visible when I am underneath, adjusting the manual star adjustment. Is this normal, or is it supposed to be more 'sealed'?
4. Do I need to spring for a Dexter brake assembly, or is there a trusted aftermarket that is less expensive?
5. Is it best to disable my brake controller this weekend by setting it to zero, or unplugging it?
You can replace just one side but I personally would not - for the cost I would start out fresh then you know what the state of each brake assembly really is. I would buy only Dexter.

A real simple way to test if you have power to one side is to jack up the side in question and plug in the trailer to the car and have someone use the manual lever on the brake controller - if the brakes are working you may hear a bit of a buzzing sound and you should feel resistance when you try and spin the tire.

I leave my brake controller in the vehicle 24/7 12 months out of the year and never unplug it - it will shut down shortly after you turn the vehicle off. The only time I change settings is at the start of every tow when I do a few test stops and adjust the controller as needed.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2016, 09:19 PM   #88
Senior Member
 
Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
Thanks for your replies.

Carol, I know it is not working. I had the trailer up on jacks tonight, and one side works, one does not. My question about measuring the voltage is to determine if there is a power issue (IE it is not even receiving power) or a mechanical issue (IE it is receiving power but just doesn't function).

This is a 2009 Scamp with little mileage... it is pretty clear that the working brake has a LOT of life left, based on the pads. If I need to replace both I will, but seems a shame when I have a unit working quite well.

My question about bypassing the brake controller is just for this weekend... I will be taking the trailer out, but do not want to use the brakes since I only have 1 side working at this time. (Before anyone gives me a hard time about this, I just towed the trailer from Ga to Va all the way back to OK without brakes, so I am not too concerned towing it an hour from here and back for the weekend).
fieldphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2016, 01:31 PM   #89
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
Scamp used a simple clamp block for the ground for the trailer brakes. This exposes that connection to corrosion especially using an aluminium lug to a steel frame with copper wire. Make sure that connection is good and the connection with the cross over wire to the other brake is good. I am guessing that you brake works on the driver's side of the trailer and not working on the passengers side. Power and ground for the brake usually runs down the driver's side of the trailer and ties into the brake activator and then crosses over to the passengers side. These are all under the trailer connections exposed to the elements and lack of proper wire support can lead to failures in the wiring. Scamps decision to use the frame as a ground conductor for the trailer brakes I don't think is a good choice. At least that is the way it in on my 1986 trailer. If you have a properly set up breakaway switch on the trailer you can pull that and then check the brake voltage at each brake connection behind the wheel. Just don't leave it on too long as it is draining your battery and the brake coils are heating up.
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2016, 04:51 PM   #90
Senior Member
 
Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
Steve,
You are right, it is the drivers side that is working.
There is no breakaway switch, as far as I know.

Help me out on wire testing, it is VERY rusty for me.
If I disconnect the wires that come from the right side brake that connect to the wires on the frame coming from the left side brake I can check them to see if power is coming to the brake. Correct?
What are the brake wire colors, and what should I be looking for with my voltmeter?

Thanks for the help.
fieldphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2016, 10:35 AM   #91
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
It is very important that you take these checks very seriously as you're dealing with brakes and electrical systems in your car and trailer. Damages can be severe and expensive if improperly applied. I urge you to seek professional help where prudent. I am not a professional and do not profess to be. I am sharing information to help you to make proper judgment, it is your decision on how to proceed.

See wiring diagram below. Note my 1986 Scamp didn't use the white wire as a continuous ground. White wire was connected to the frame and the frame used as 12 volt ground for the electric brakes. My electric brake coils have 2 black wires one to be connected to 12 volt ground and one connected to the blue wire that sends 12 volt positive to the brake coil when the brakes are applied. This is the same wire that crosses over to the passengers side.

hook up your trailer to your tug and plug in your trailer wiring. I would have the trailer up on stands and remove the passenger side tire. Coming out the backing plate behind the brake drum you will see 2 wires. Where these 2 wires attach to the wire coming from the the other side of the trailer brakes if there is only 1 wire it should be the 12 volt positive and the other wire from the brakes would be 12 volt ground. In the case of my trailer made in 1986 I have only one wire cross over as Scamp used the frame as ground.

On the passenger's side of the trailer brakes follow the 2 wires on the back side of the brake drum to where the wire connection for the crossover meets. Expose that connection and see if it is still properly attached. This connection must be protected from shorting to ground or you can seriously damage the electrical system in your car.

Set your meter to DC volts and probe that connection with your meter wire. One meter probe on the cross over wire and one probe on ground of the frame. You have to hold these connections while someone in your car has the engine running and activates the manual override switch on the brake controller in your car. You supposed to get a voltage reading if you don't then you have a ground or positive wire issue between the brakes on the passenger's side and the brakes on the drivers side. If you have good voltage and the brakes on the passenger's side are not working you could have a bad coil, frozen rusted brake application lever or mal adjusted brake shoes.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...gram_Scamp.pdf
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2016, 02:25 PM   #92
Senior Member
 
Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
Steve,
These are clear, concise directions that I feel comfortable following- Thank You.

We are going out this weekend, sans brakes, so I will start on this Monday or Tuesday. I will keep you posted on the results.. I am sure I will have another question or two.
fieldphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2016, 06:48 AM   #93
Senior Member
 
Borden's Avatar
 
Name: Borden and Carole
Trailer: 1978 Earlton Ontario boler
Ontario
Posts: 1,506
Registry
Remove wheel with axle blocked up and all that is needed on our old unit is a flat screw driver to remove cap (hammer may help), pliers to remove pin, grease to repack, replacement cotter pin is a good idea but may not be needed. The nut will turn by hand on ours when pin removed. Do it so often that all items work easy but if it has been sometime since done things can get sticky. Like to check break shoes every spring so pull drum off and clean out dust each spring and if a lot of driving we will check mid season, cleaning out dust from drum each time.
Wheel bearings are not good to ignore.
Any auto mechanic can help those that are not inclined to check there own.
So far our seals are ok visual inspection no leaks
__________________
Our postage stamp in heaven.
Borden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2016, 07:07 AM   #94
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Borden View Post
... replacement cotter pin is a good idea but may not be needed....


ALWAYS use new cotter pin. They are cheap as dirt and a broken one can lead to bearing damage and loss of the trailer's wheel. Not fun when you are going 65 MPH.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2016, 08:02 PM   #95
Senior Member
 
Name: Frank
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 260
Wheel Bearing care

Never use an air hose to spin the bearing it can score the rollers and cone.
__________________
Frank F
frankcfx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2016, 08:43 PM   #96
Senior Member
 
Johnny M's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankcfx View Post
Never use an air hose to spin the bearing it can score the rollers and cone.
Well with all due respect, I have done this for over 25 years on bearings in the printing industry and related machinery as well as servicing all the cars I have owned my adult life, my dad although retired is/was and ASE certified master mechanic and he taught me how to clean bearings while assisting him at his automotive shop. I have never seen one score that way, but we are not trying to spin them just dry them and blow out any residue from the cleaning step. I understand the concept of scoring a bearing without grease and under mechanical pressure, but I just can't see how that could happen simply by blowing them out with an air hose...maybe I am missing something???
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2016, 07:14 AM   #97
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
Yes... he said "spin" the bearing not blow it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Well with all due respect, ............. but I just can't see how that could happen simply by blowing them out with an air hose...maybe I am missing something???
Darral T. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2016, 08:14 AM   #98
Senior Member
 
Name: Frank
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 260
Brgs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Well with all due respect, I have done this for over 25 years on bearings in the printing industry and related machinery as well as servicing all the cars I have owned my adult life, my dad although retired is/was and ASE certified master mechanic and he taught me how to clean bearings while assisting him at his automotive shop. I have never seen one score that way, but we are not trying to spin them just dry them and blow out any residue from the cleaning step. I understand the concept of scoring a bearing without grease and under mechanical pressure, but I just can't see how that could happen simply by blowing them out with an air hose...maybe I am missing something???
My info came from a brg manufacture.

No wonder you are confused....you say both yes and no in your reply.
__________________
Frank F
frankcfx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2016, 09:56 AM   #99
Senior Member
 
Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 137
Steve, (or anyone else lol)

I got under the passenger side and cut/exposed the blue wire coming over from the driver side brakes.

I set my multimeter to DC 20, and put the red probe on the exposed blue wire, and the black probe onto the metal frame.

I got a reading around 5. Usually 4.97

Is this correct, meaning I am getting power to the passenger side brake?

Thank you.
fieldphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2016, 10:19 AM   #100
Senior Member
 
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,561
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Steve, (or anyone else lol)

I got under the passenger side and cut/exposed the blue wire coming over from the driver side brakes.

I set my multimeter to DC 20, and put the red probe on the exposed blue wire, and the black probe onto the metal frame.

I got a reading around 5. Usually 4.97

Is this correct, meaning I am getting power to the passenger side brake?

Thank you.
The voltage should be the same on both brake assemblies. The brake controller supplies voltage. If there is a variation right to left side, I would suspect a bad connection.
Jack L is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Anybody in Buffalo, NY area to teach me how to repack bearings? CampyTime Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 19 08-13-2015 07:14 AM
'78 Boler bearing repack specs? Fallon Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 5 04-06-2015 10:52 AM
HUB Bearing/Repack DIY - 1976 Trillium 1300 - georgewa Modifications, Alterations and Updates 6 10-18-2013 11:44 AM
Bearing repack video cpaharley2008 Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 4 08-21-2013 11:46 PM
Video on how to repack bearings Joe Z Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 09-28-2009 05:11 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.