Maintenance & Restoration

Jon in AZ · 02-01-2018, 03:12 PM

According to hitch manufacturer Curt, the "hitch" is the part that attaches to the vehicle.
https://www.curtmfg.com/page/towing101_ch2

More commonly, "hitch" is used as a loose term for the whole shebang-everything not attached to the trailer, including receiver, ball mount, ball, weight distributing system, etc.

I have never heard of "hitch" used to mean only the ball mount (draw bar, stinger,...).

Raspy · 02-01-2018, 03:14 PM

Didn't people used to get "hitched"?

Steve Carlson · 02-01-2018, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Why is that ridiculous? I remove my hitch unless towing.
Are confusing the hitch with the hitch receiver ( which is bolted on )?
Is Toyota using the term hitch for ball mount?

Toyota actually meant the entire hitch, receiver and all.
https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/docu...f/OM42726U.pdf

See page 350 of the owners manual

Quote:

Toyota recommends that the trailer
hitch be removed when not towing to
prevent injury and/or damage by the
hitch in event of a rear end collision.
After removing the hitch, the installation
area should be sealed to prevent
entry of exhaust fumes and mud.

Glenn Baglo · 02-01-2018, 04:02 PM

I see that in my 2008 manual, but I think the key word is that Toyota "recommends". It's like your doctor recommending you eat less, but not saying if you don't, you'll die.

Glenn Baglo · 02-01-2018, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Carlson

The owners manual for my old 2008 Toyota RAV4 stated, very clearly, that the trailer hitch itself should be removed from the vehicle when not towing.

Patently ridiculous, of course, but I'm sure there was some lawsuit sometime that cause that little bit of lawyer-induced insanity.

The problem is that you say the hitch "should" be removed and the manual says Toyota "recommends" the hitch be removed. There is a difference.

Jon in AZ · 02-01-2018, 04:19 PM

Interesting. Didn't FCA, formerly Chrysler Corporation, add a "hitch" to improve rear end protection in the event of a rear end collision on at least one model?

Sure sounds like lawyer-ese. It's a recommendation only. They know full well no one will actually follow this recommendation, but just in case some particularly bizarre accident causes the receiver to punch through the floorpan and impale someone... well, it's not Toyota's fault.

Glenn Baglo · 02-01-2018, 04:32 PM

I think the issue is that a hitch would interfere with the crush zones that are there to help prevent injury in a rear-end collision.
( can you call it a collision when somebody rams you in the rear? ).

Steve Carlson · 02-01-2018, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

The problem is that you say the hitch "should" be removed and the manual says Toyota "recommends" the hitch be removed. There is a difference.

Not all that big a difference really, but at any rate I was going from memory when I typed that, so mea culpa.

Jon in AZ · 02-01-2018, 05:17 PM

That makes sense, Glenn. Since Toyota does not supply a factory integrated receiver, whatever the owner installs has not been crash tested.

I'm not an automotive engineer, but I'm going to guess the rear structure is designed to be fairly rigid, while the front to be more crushable. In our Pilot, there is only about a foot of "crushable" space before the passenger area in the third row is affected. I was rear-ended a couple of years ago and the deformation of the rear of my Pilot was minimal (plastic parts excluded), while the full-sized Chevy pickup that hit me was crushed as far as the front wheels. It clearly absorbed most of the crash forces for both vehicles. It was towed from the scene and I drove home. $10K and 6 weeks later, the Pilot was good as new. It took my body rather longer.

On the whole, I'd say the added structure of a rear receiver is a good thing in a rear-end collision.

What was this thread about again?

Gmindy · 02-01-2018, 10:21 PM

So I asked for (and paid for) the top of the line tow package but got a 4 not 7 electrical. The company told me that I could not tow with brakes and a manual trans. I’ve gone higher than the locals and hope to hear back soon!

Gmindy · 02-01-2018, 10:23 PM

Oops wrong thread!

Jon in AZ · 02-02-2018, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gmindy

So I asked for (and paid for) the top of the line tow package but got a 4 not 7 electrical. The company told me that I could not tow with brakes and a manual trans. I’ve gone higher than the locals and hope to hear back soon!

Right thread, we just got off track for a while! Your question is back in post #35, and there were a number of on-topic responses before things went sideways.

When you say "company" and "higher than the locals," do you mean Subaru of America? I'm looking forward to their answer. It's possible the manual carries a lower tow rating than the automatic. It's possible there is some physical reason you can't wire brakes with the manual, but I think that very unlikely. Many people have wired smaller vehicles with manual transmissions for electric trailer brakes.

EDIT- I downloaded and read the entire towing section in the 2018 Forester owner's manual. There is nothing to indicate either a lower tow rating for the manual or any other reason electric brakes cannot be wired. There was a whole paragraph on trailer brakes with no mention of transmission type. Lots of other good information, too, worth reading before you go any further.

Most likely, then, the dealer simply doesn't stock or install 7-pin wiring because (1) very few people are going to tow over 1000# with a Forester, and (2) they want to avoid liability for people who might exceed the 1500# rating. The reality is there are very few trailers over 1000# but less than 1500# and equipped with electric brakes. Small egg trailers are something of an anomaly.

Subaru is not alone. As far as I know, all vehicles in that class (compact SUV's) only have 4-pin wiring available through the manufacturer. For 7-pin wiring you have to go aftermarket. Some dealers will help with that; most probably don't want to bother with it.

If so, you will have to go somewhere else to upgrade your wiring from 4-pin to 7-pin. U-Haul, utility trailer shops, or a trusted independent auto mechanic are all good candidates.

Final note- it is easy for a 13' molded fiberglass trailer to exceed 1500# loaded for camping. It requires careful selection of the trailer (no heavy options or owner modifications) and packing very lightly. I would encourage you to weigh your Boler before you go any further with towing set-up.

Keep us posted!

Mike_L · 02-02-2018, 11:11 AM

I never did like the deceleration models, too jerky. I have an electric one on my tow vehicle that quit so I'll have to replace it for the second time. I have a brakesmart unit that I took off a former TV because the guy I sold it to didn't tow and didn't trust it. I'm thinking that should be my replacement.

thrifty bill · 02-02-2018, 01:00 PM

Jon nailed it, the 1000 to 1500 pound actual weight trailer market is quite small. A lot of people out there assuming they are under the limit, few take the time to weigh their trailers.

We have a 2010 Honda Element, it has a 1500 pound tow rating as well, and I added the factory optional four wire plug.

Check weights in the real world for examples of light trailers that aren't that light. The only ones under 1500 are the Burro, Compact Jr, and the UHaul. And some of each of those three models weighed in over the 1500 pound mark. And think of some of the options that many people want: furnace, AC, toilet, holding tanks, refrigerator. All add more weight. I was considering a Hunter Compact II to possibly do short trips with our Element. Not a single one weighed under 1500 pounds.

I was surprised to not see a basic Scamp 13 on that list, one with no furnace, no AC, no toilet, no frig, no wood interior, etc. I would guess it would be under 1500 pounds. Compact II had a lot of wood in the interior, which probably challenges it weight wise.

John in Santa Cruz · 02-02-2018, 05:58 PM

yeah, 1000-1500 lbs is light boat range, like a dingy, or a hobie cat at most. those sorts of trailers rarely have brakes.

Gmindy · 02-05-2018, 10:33 PM

So with no fridge, ac, water, propane, etc the Boler weight is 908 lbs. Subaru Canada says I should not get brakes with a manual trans but no real reason. While the “best” hitch (the one I got installed ) is rated for 1500 lbs but the electrics are never more than 4. Unfortunately with all the work I got put on the new vehicle I won’t be able to get new wiring for a while! Quite the kerfuffle!

Glenn Baglo · 02-05-2018, 10:48 PM

Keep in mind that the lowest number for any of the components is the one that counts. You could have a hitch rated for 9,000 lbs., but if the tow vehicle is rated 1,000 lbs. then your max is 1,000 lbs.