Increasing the carrying capacity of a Trillium

[Scott H]

If your axle is 33 years old, it needs replaced. I switched to a Dexter 3500# axle with an additional 1.5" of lift, to fit the new 14" rims and tires. 14" wheels would not have fit otherwise.
If your axle is stock, then it's welded in place and needs to be cut off. This led me to having mine done professionally.

[Andrew Gibbens]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

What if I rebuild almost exactly the same frame, (the existing one is a bit rusty) except use slightly thicker square tubing, extra reinforcements around the bends under the front...etc.

Better still, as thicker tubing isn't very weight efficient, would be to make the same frame as now but with 25-50% deeper tubing. That would increase its carrying capacity substantially without a big weight increase.

Those building new frames often cannot resist making the A-frame longer to carry more stuff, but that makes the frame weaker, so try to resist that temptation.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Scott H

If your axle is 33 years old, it needs replaced. I switched to a Dexter 3500# axle with an additional 1.5" of lift, to fit the new 14" rims and tires. 14" wheels would not have fit otherwise.Attachment 41538
If your axle is stock, then it's welded in place and needs to be cut off. This led me to having mine done professionally.

I just got off the phone with the folks at Team Trillium Trailers Manufacturing Ltd. in Calgary, (where I live). They ball parked me at about $1000 for a new axle installed.

Does this seem reasonable?

[cpaharley2008]

Did you not get that quote from Mr. Young for new frame and axle for $1750?, Seems to me that is a better buy. Putting new axle on a old frame, albeit surface rust, seems to me a lot more expensive if the frame is overloaded and cracks. That additional $750 is better investment, IMHO!

[Donna D.]

I don't know about pricing in Canada... but I think that's at least $300-$400 higher than what I'd pay here in Portland, Oregon. The axle itself is less than $400. I'd say shop around. YMMV

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I don't know about pricing in Canada... but I think that's at least $300-$400 higher than what I'd pay here in Portland, Oregon. The axle itself is less than $400. I'd say shop around. YMMV

Well, I don't mean to sound bitter, but as a Canadian, I am accustomed to paying too much. Magazines and books still have a MUCH higher Canadian price then the American price. Even though our currency is basically at parity. I think this is just a trend here. The person I talked to said that it was a 4 to 6 hour job, since the axle is welded on. They would cut it off and add a bolting plate so it would be easier to change next time, (in twenty years?).

I will be shopping around, but they do seem very popular with the RV crowd. I went there for lunch. There are four Bolers and two large Motor homes, and one new Trillium, (Outback) on their floor.

Of course a new frame from Trillium RV for $1750 would be a better long term investment. This is especially true since that included the higher rated coupler and chains, which I will still need to change on my trailer. I would still have to import it from Temecula, CA. I have to guess this would be several hundred dollars. I have requested a shipping quote from Tom.

This is as opposed to a shop ten minuets from where I work and five from my home, who I assume will be familiar with my trailer. Though their frame design is totally different from mine. No bends and 1/8" thick tube. It looks heavy!

[lamimartin]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

(...)The person I talked to said that it was a 4 to 6 hour job, since the axle is welded on. They would cut it off and add a bolting plate so it would be easier to change next time, (in twenty years?).
(...)

There is no question in my mind that shipping and customs brokerage cost of a new frame will cancel any apparent bargain price from US. If it is still in fair shape, I would think upgrading your current frame would be the least expensive option (new axle, minor reinforcements and new 2" coupler). Having the modification performed by the manufacturer is the safest option from the insurance and legal stand point too.

If rust or cracks make your old frame irrecoverable, your next option could be to get a price for a brand new frame from the manufacturer, with increased capacity.

[Donna D.]

I'd always hope you'd find the answers you seek here on FiberglassRV. However, there are times it's prudent to check elsewhere on the WWW. I have a friend that's a Bolerite and she says perhaps you should log into the Bolerama forum and ask your question there as well. I understand lots of Boler and Trillium owners hang there. Hopefully someone from Alberta can help you find another source for axle replacement.

[Scott H]

That price is high; but maybe it's just the Canada thing. I went to a dedicated suspension shop and my bill looked something like this:
Dexter 3500#, EZ lube, 10" electric brakes- $388
2 fancy 14" aluminum wheels with tires- $320
1 white 14" steel spare with tire- $100
2"ball A frame coupler- $30
New sidewind jack- $44
2 BAL crank down stabilizer jacks- $57
New saftey chains with anchors- $25
Labor for everything plus welding on a new propane rack- $260
Total- $1230

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Scott H

That price is high; but maybe it's just the Canada thing. I went to a dedicated suspension shop and my bill looked something like this:
Dexter 3500#, EZ lube, 10" electric brakes- $388
2 fancy 14" aluminum wheels with tires- $320
1 white 14" steel spare with tire- $100
2"ball A frame coupler- $30
New sidewind jack- $44
2 BAL crank down stabilizer jacks- $57
New saftey chains with anchors- $25
Labor for everything plus welding on a new propane rack- $260
Total- $1230

OK - To be fair, it was a ball park price. He gave me a verbal on the axle of $400 and 4 to 6 hours labor, $120/hr, (welcome to Calgary).

Got my fuel pump replaced in Wawa, Ontario this summer, at $70/hr. I almost passed out! A big THANK YOU to the GM dealership in Wawa. You guys rock! BTW this was two of the kids favorite part of the trip. Wawa has this cool park with a beach and some HUGE mining equiptment that all the kids loved climbing over.

When I was at the factory for lunch, the trailer that I came to look at was a Boler that was getting the same axle and wheels. I wanted to look at the wheels. They had the body off the frame, and the guy I was talking to said sominthing like ~"bring it in and we will pull it off the frame and let you know what condition the frame really is.~", or something like that. They build the frames for the Outback, so they can sand blast and paint my frame, which seems to be in good shape. I am sure that they can install a new 2" coupler as well.

The $1750 from Trillium RV did not include instalation or freight. Both could add up to another $1500, or more.

I have requested a quote with seperate lines for axle, coupler, wheels, and frame paint. I expect he will want me to bring in the trailer to look at first.

[freddo411]

Originally Posted by floyd

I would make the changes myself, but if you don't have the tools and skills to do so, it would be easy to simply remove the body from the frame and order a trailer of the appropriate size, then just bolt it on to it's new chassis. You would be surprised how cheap that can be, I have a source which would build it for under a thousand dollars. you could probably have it done for under 15.

Question for FLOYD: I too have a trillium 4500 that needs to have its frame repaired or replaced. Can you point me to your source for frame construction / repair?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by freddo411

Question for FLOYD: I too have a trillium 4500 that needs to have its frame repaired or replaced. Can you point me to your source for frame construction / repair?

I see you live in Washington State. I live in Illinois. I have been in the "car hobby" all my adult life, so my sources are friends with like interests and personal connections for material. The numbers in my posts are simply guesses based on past experience.
I suggest that you remove the body from your frame, have it sand blasted, then take it to a local weld shop for evaluation and repair.
That would be the lowest priced approach. Any decent fab shop could reproduce something as simple as a trailer frame if needed.


A few years ago I bought a new two axle utility/carhauler trailer for $900 with brakes on one axle. I had to supply my own floor,ramps, and wheels and tires. That was from a local guy who hauled trailers in from Sikeston and Elkhart.
I can't speak to price where you live, but a simple search turned up the places below which specialize in trailer fabrication and repair.
After you do your research, please report back here and let us know how far off I was on my guesses.

Service - 99 West Trailers | 99 West Trailers


Tuff Trailer | Boat Trailers | Utility Trailers


Washington RV Repair and Maintenance

[freddo411]

Thanks for the pointers.

Any helpful hints on lifting the shell and supporting the shell once it is lifted?

I will let everyone know how things go for me.

Originally Posted by floyd

I see you live in Washington State. I live in Illinois. I have been in the "car hobby" all my adult life, so my sources are friends with like interests and personal connections for material. The numbers in my posts are simply guesses based on past experience.
I suggest that you remove the body from your frame, have it sand blasted, then take it to a local weld shop for evaluation and repair.
That would be the lowest priced approach. Any decent fab shop could reproduce something as simple as a trailer frame if needed.


A few years ago I bought a new two axle utility/carhauler trailer for $900 with brakes on one axle. I had to supply my own floor,ramps, and wheels and tires. That was from a local guy who hauled trailers in from Sikeston and Elkhart.
I can't speak to price where you live, but a simple search turned up the places below which specialize in trailer fabrication and repair.
After you do your research, please report back here and let us know how far off I was on my guesses.

Service - 99 West Trailers | 99 West Trailers


Tuff Trailer | Boat Trailers | Utility Trailers


Washington RV Repair and Maintenance

[floyd]

Originally Posted by freddo411

Thanks for the pointers.

Any helpful hints on lifting the shell and supporting the shell once it is lifted?

I will let everyone know how things go for me.

I am not specifically familiar with the 4500,although I once did refit a Trillium 13.
Assuming they are built in a similar manner, I would ...
Remove all frame bolts
Lift one corner or end at a time using a floor jack with a one foot square of 3/4" plywood for a pad. Then slide a 2X12 across between the frame and the body front and rear . support the cross boards with jack stands,then simply pull the frame out from under making sure to clear any obstacles protruding through the floor. The frame alone can be easily scooted side to side once the weight is off.
The Trillium is a tough and rigid trailer with a good floor, but I think I would stay out of it while the frame is out.
I know it won't be as easy as it sounds but careful determination trumps difficulty.
Hopefully there are some others on this forum who know more than I do about your trailer, and can offer some better and more specific help

[Borden]

We are lucky that the boler had a 3500 lb axle and going from st205r14 b rated to st205r14 c rated gave the extra weight rating; c gave us 1760 lbs per tire. The the original 1500 lbs each for b rated gave 3000 lbs total was enough but felt since we needed new tires it was a good idea.

boler recommended a wd hitch system and 202 lbs at the tongue for our trailer in the original manual, that is just under 10%

Pulled last week with about 8% and pulled very well but we have a car not a truck and the lower position of a car does not require a much tongue weight to ride correctly.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Borden

We are lucky that the boler had a 3500 lb axle and going from st205r14 b rated to st205r14 c rated gave the extra weight rating; c gave us 1760 lbs per tire. The the original 1500 lbs each for b rated gave 3000 lbs total was enough but felt since we needed new tires it was a good idea.

boler recommended a wd hitch system and 202 lbs at the tongue for our trailer in the original manual, that is just under 10%

Pulled last week with about 8% and pulled very well but we have a car not a truck and the lower position of a car does not require a much tongue weight to ride correctly.

While I understand that the average car can't handle as much actual tongue weight as a truck, and that a WD hitch might alleviate some of that, I simply don't understand the thought behind your last sentence.
Shouldn't the ball height be the same in either case?

Also... Is it wise to use a WD hitch on a unibody car? If so why?
Wouldn't a WD hitch move shift stress points forward of the hitch into the floor pan? Perhaps that would only be a problem on a few of the weaker ones?

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by floyd

While I understand that the average car can't handle as much actual tongue weight as a truck, and that a WD hitch might alleviate some of that, I simply don't understand the thought behind your last sentence.
Shouldn't the ball height be the same in either case?

Also... Is it wise to use a WD hitch on a unibody car? If so why?
Wouldn't a WD hitch move shift stress points forward of the hitch into the floor pan? Perhaps that would only be a problem on a few of the weaker ones?

If it were me I'd worry more about the strain on the trailer frame with additional forces caused by a wd hitch.

[cpaharley2008]

No weight distributing hitch is needed for 200 lbs tongue weight. The purpose of the w/d is to shift excess weight to the front to keep the weight evenly over the wheels, front and back. Two hundred pounds is light, more chances of sway with a light t/w. Sway control may be needed but no w/d.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

No weight distributing hitch is needed for 200 lbs tongue weight. The purpose of the w/d is to shift excess weight to the front to keep the weight evenly over the wheels, front and back. Two hundred pounds is light, more chances of sway with a light t/w. Sway control may be needed but no w/d.

I suggest you study the workings of WD hitches.
They remove weight from the rear wheels of tow vehicle and distribute that weight to front wheels of tow and to the trailer wheels.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I suggest you study the workings of WD hitches.
They remove weight from the rear wheels of tow vehicle and distribute that weight to front wheels of tow and to the trailer wheels.

Isn't that what I said in my post??