Installing a Equalizer WDH on 17' Casita - Fiberglass RV
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Old 03-11-2017, 10:13 PM   #1
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Name: Dick
Trailer: '15 17' LD Casita and '17 Tahoe LT
Texas
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Installing a Equalizer WDH on 17' Casita

Looking for someone that has installed a Equalizer WDH hitch on a 17' Casita. The problem I have is that the frame for the propane bottles is welded where the rear L brackets need to be mounted. Does anyone have a work around for this. Would like to not have to do to much cutting and rewelding. Looking for another way or frame mount for the bottles so that I can do away with the factory welded mount.
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:17 AM   #2
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
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Welcome to FGRV Dick. Have to ask what your tug is as you may not need a WDH for a good tow. I compared the WD bars I have for another TT and the bottles are in the way on my SD17. I don't use one but raising the tank mount for clearance would be pretty easy. I see you're looking for something not welded but that's probably the most secure way of holding them in place.
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Old 03-12-2017, 11:16 AM   #3
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Name: Larry
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I installed the Andersen WDH on my Casita 17 and mounted the brackets behind the tank mounts it worked out very nicely. Tried to post a picture but can't seem to get it to work.
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Old 03-12-2017, 11:30 AM   #4
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Just barely works

You can only use the smallest available equalizer, and you move the brackets further forward than the book calls for. I spoke to the factory get the spec. I think it was 27.5 inches. I can find it if need be. Thus does reduce the amount of lift but it worked perfectly on my 17' LD and a Honda Pilot.
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Old 03-12-2017, 12:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmad1 View Post
Looking for someone that has installed a Equalizer WDH hitch on a 17' Casita. The problem I have is that the frame for the propane bottles is welded where the rear L brackets need to be mounted. Does anyone have a work around for this. Would like to not have to do to much cutting and rewelding. Looking for another way or frame mount for the bottles so that I can do away with the factory welded mount.
Which vehicle do you own to tow your Casita?

It is possible, depending your vehicle, that you need only anti-swing ???

Very important to mention to justify a WDH.

Other members will certainly comment on my hypothesis.
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Old 03-12-2017, 12:57 PM   #6
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The Equalizer includes anti-sway. The justification of the WDH is if your vehicle sags too much reducing the grip of your front wheels. I like that I can back up without having to take anything off. My setup works great, with just enough lift. It does make a lot of noise in turns.
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Old 03-12-2017, 12:58 PM   #7
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Torsion bars come in different lengths allowing you to install the frame brackets in the space available. The longer the torsion bars the better as it minimizes the stress on your trailer frame. A WDH is much safer for towing as it improves the stability of your tow vehicle.
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Old 03-12-2017, 03:34 PM   #8
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Name: Lee
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Has anyone tried using one of those Firestone air bag kits to level up the TV once its hooked up? I'm just curious if that might be an alternative to WDH's.
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Old 03-12-2017, 03:44 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Captleemo View Post
Has anyone tried using one of those Firestone air bag kits to level up the TV once its hooked up? I'm just curious if that might be an alternative to WDH's.
A weight distribution hitch shifts weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the front axle of the tow and to the trailer axle.
All an air bag does is make the rear suspension on the tow vehicle stiffer. The vehicle may be 'level' but you have none of the other advantages of a WDH.
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Old 03-12-2017, 04:21 PM   #10
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Name: Dick
Trailer: '15 17' LD Casita and '17 Tahoe LT
Texas
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Thanks to everyone for pitching in. I have a '12 Chevy Tahoe. I'm sure there will be some that say I don't need a WDH and some will say just a friction sway bar will be just fine. Some say the Anderson is the way to go. I already have the equalizer that I have used on other trailers from 25' to 32' and have now downsized to the 17' LD. I feel I need the WD just to get some of the sag out of the rear of the Tahoe because we carry so much junk that we probably don't or won't ever use. But trying to convince the wife of that is another story. And with the Equalizer, sway has never been a factor. Maybe like some have said, I may not need either one. But I will feel much better having one even if it is on a smaller trailer. Probably huge over kill but I am ok with that. Is more better? I don't know. But to mount the rear L brackets of the Eq. will mean having to remove the factory tank bracket or finding another way to mount the tanks. I have seen the OMW box that also supports a gen.. I just got the 2015 LD a few days ago and don't even know if the little Honda 2000i will run the a/c. It was marginal on an Airstream with a 11.5k a/c. But I do have two of them if needed. Just need a good way to transport them, hopefully not in the Tahoe. Might consider the OMW rear hitch and basket. Don't want to mount them permanently because of the high rate of thief in our neighborhood. Sorry for the long dissertation but just not sure whether to pursue the Eq. or go another route. Thanks again to everyone, dmad1
By the way, there is a video on YouTube comparing the WDH vs. Air Bags. Sorry I don't have the link handy.
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Old 03-12-2017, 07:22 PM   #11
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Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 ft SD
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Casita SD WDH

The work around that I did to install the equalizer hitch was to raise the LP tank holding tray one inch. I cut the welds to remove the tray, built and installed a one inch square steel tub frame. Then reinstalled the tank holder. Then installed the WDH L's for the hitch. One problem I ran into is that the Casita frame is only two and a half inches wide. Could not get a good tight connection. The L brackets would slip, so I welded them in place to keep them from slipping. The equalizer hitch changed the handling characteristics of the trailer. Much more control and a much solider connection. Makes towing much easier.
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:53 PM   #12
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I would have to agree with Glenn on the WDH/air bag issue.
Measure the ground to bottom of bumper height distance for both front and rear bumpers before and after hook up of your trailer to your TV. If the rear distance is more than an inch or two less than the front you should consider a WDH. With a WDH you can put more weight on your front wheels which gives you more capacity to load your TV which is usually at the back end, up to its weight carrying capacity.
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:13 AM   #13
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This subject gets beat to death continually.

Lots of excuses why not but none are really valid on a 17' Casita that has over 400# tongue weight even on half ton pick ups.

I have a 17' Casita SD and a Extended cab Z-71 Silverado.
You might not NEED a WDH but you'll sure like the benefits of one.

Installed at the factory Casita uses a couple of spacers welded on that appera to be scraps of what they have left over.

Myself and othes have done the same by welding on or have welded on, 6" sections of 3x3 1/4" thick square tubing and bolted the snap brackets to them after cutting off part of the top bracket.

Spring bars are not usually sold in different lengths.
But weight ratings of them is very important. 500# bars cover from 400# to 600# so are just right for the 400# Casita.

Please excuse the spots of polish.
Joe
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Old 03-13-2017, 09:26 AM   #14
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Name: Charles
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"Myself and othes have done the same by welding on or have welded on, 6" sections of 3x3 1/4" thick square tubing and bolted the snap brackets to them after cutting off part of the top bracket"

I had forgotten about this option. You are basically spreading the bars out slightly wider, which I'm sure has some impact on the math. I would encourage all to call the Equalizer factory when you have questions. They were easy to reach, and enormously helpful.

One thing I don't like about my setup is that the factory (Equalizer) brackets ended up with a lot of metal sticking up above the frame. I worry about that becoming a perfect piercing instrument into the tank (only about an inch away). I should consider getting these extender brackets myself.
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Old 03-13-2017, 09:28 AM   #15
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Name: Charles
Trailer: Casita
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One more note from mine. My welder looked at the trailer frame, and didn't like the way the bolts would 'squeeze' the "C" channel. He welded about 5 inches worth of plate to help bolster the steel from that, and I like the confidence I got from it. It cost a little weight on an already borderline rig, but I didn't like the idea of bending the frame.
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Old 03-13-2017, 03:38 PM   #16
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Name: Dick
Trailer: '15 17' LD Casita and '17 Tahoe LT
Texas
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Good advice. I just got off the phone with "Joey" at Equalizer. He said I could put the L brackets as far back as 32". According to my wife, I don't have anywhere near 32" and am just wishing...
It looks like I am going to cut the tank brackets and move them up about 6" and that will let me put the L brackets at 30". The problem with moving the tank bracket is that Casita used angle iron to support from about the crank back to within 3" of the tank bracket. So, if I move the bracket forward, it will be one inch higher in the front than the rear so I need spacers bolted to the rear of it or weld something else for to rest on. I will try to add a pic. later when I figure out how. Thanks again to everyone. dmad1
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Old 03-13-2017, 03:44 PM   #17
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Name: Charles
Trailer: Casita
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I'm thinking if you gave to weld, do the little extensions mentioned above and problem solved. Do you have the 400? That's the one you can shorten the distance to the L brackets and it fits.. just barely.
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Old 03-13-2017, 04:13 PM   #18
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You used your Equal-i-zer with a 32' trailer, so my guess is that it's rated for maybe 10K lbs? If so, my concern is that the heavy duty bars may put undue strain on the relatively lightweight Casita frame. If you had the 6K lb unit you're probably somewhat better off. Even then, the square bars don't really flex much (if at all).

I had a 10k Equal-i-zer, and when I bought a smaller 16' TT I felt uneasy about using that heavy hitch. So I went with the Andersen No-Sway and liked it. The Andersen doesn't weigh much, it's easy to take off and stow away, and it helped smooth the ride greatly. The chains can be shortened if necessary (I cut off 2 links to make mine fit the desired mount location). There are other WD hitches with spring bars that would also be more gentle on the frame than the trusty Equal-i-zer.
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:13 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post

Even then, the square bars don't really flex much (if at all).
...
There are other WD hitches with spring bars that would also be more gentle on the frame than the trusty Equal-i-zer.
I agree, and I'm not a big fan of the Equal-i-zer for this reason.
I'm currently looking at Reese's 600# Steadi-Flex WDH for my trailer. Greater bar flexion and smoother ride seems to be one of their selling points.
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:00 PM   #20
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Name: Dick
Trailer: '15 17' LD Casita and '17 Tahoe LT
Texas
Posts: 321
Going from a larger trailer to the Casita and using the Eq. was a big concern and I asked Eq. about it this afternoon. They said using the 10k spring bars should not be a problem. They said I could move the L bracket rearward but 32" was about the max distance I should go with. From 27" to 32" still leaves no room to mount the brackets because of tanks. I need to move the bracket about 6" forward. I was hoping that moving it forward would leave enough room to set the Honda gen. but that isn't quite enough. Going to take a step back and re-evaluate things and maybe opt for one of the cabinets from OMW and set the gen. on top. Also, maybe a rear receiver hitch and platform may be the way to go. Was reading the installation on their hitch and they indicate that for every 10 lbs. you add to the rear platform, you take almost 6 lbs. off the tongue weight and suggest you add weight up front to offset it. So, if you carry the Honda gen. of about 50 lbs., you need to add nearly 30 lbs. to the front.
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