Installing electric brakes - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:47 PM   #1
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Name: Rich
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Installing electric brakes

I'm looking at 13' fiberglass trailers, especially the Burro and UHaul. How much would it cost to install electric brakes on one of these trailers? Is it a do-it-yourself job? Thanks.

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Old 09-27-2010, 06:18 PM   #2
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If you are a do it yourselfer and can use a wrench it's a fairly easy job.
Brakes, drums and bearings will cost you $219.00 plus freight from NorthernTool.com and then around another $100.00 for a brake controller.
If you don't have the ability to do the job yourself buy the parts and find an auto repair shop to do the job for you instead of an RV dealer.
Make sure the trailer axle has a square flange with bolt holes in each corner to accept the brake backing plates.
If you buy an older trailer that needs a new axle you could order the new axle with brakes already installed.
I live in California and have and have bought at least 4 sets of brakes from Northern Tool and have found them to be less expensive than buying locally even with the cost of shipping.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:34 PM   #3
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If you end up buying an older trailer, make sure you get the right brake kit for it. Older Torflex axles with 4-bolt wheels usually have a smaller 1" spindle which tales different drums, bearings races and seals. Newer ones with 5-bolt wheels generally have 1-1/16" spindles and use the more commonly available and somewhat less expensive kits available from Northern Tool and lots of other places. Dexter sells kits for 1" spindles, but I couldn't find them at any retailers. An on-line dealer put a kit together for me and knocked a few bucks off of the total. If you're not sure what you have, it's best to take the old hub off and measure before ordering.

I'm not exactly sure when Dexter made the switchover, but I think it might have been around 1985.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:13 PM   #4
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If the axle is 15-20 years old, it's possibily at the end of its life anyway. If replacing the axle, get brakes.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:57 PM   #5
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If the axle is 15-20 years old, it's possibily at the end of its life anyway. If replacing the axle, get brakes.
I'm glad you started with "If", Donna. Most bad axles are old, but not all old ones are bad. My trailer was suspended by jack stands for most of its life - one of the few things its previous owners did right - so it's still at about the original height. Even if I can only forestall axle replacement another 3-5 years, the price of the brakes will be worth it to me. Replace axles when they're droopy, crooked or stiff, but not just because they're old.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:21 PM   #6
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Another consideration is that an original U-haul axle may be somewhat proprietary. I don't know that for sure; I'm just bringing it up because, for example, their wheels are.

Just something to check in comparison to Scamps, Burros, etc.

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Old 09-28-2010, 07:33 AM   #7
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Thanks to all

Many thanks for the sage responses. It is exactly the information I was looking for.

Rich Morrison
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Old 09-28-2010, 08:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Jon W View Post
so it's still at about the original height..
Rubber gets hard with age, it has to do with the outgassing. Torsion axles, just like tires, will age no matter what you do to them. Although your trailer may ride at the same height, what kind of ride is the trailer getting? I once had a roommate that had tires with tread that looked brand new and 40,000 miles, the rubber was hard as a rock.

I'm not trying to be an contrarian, truly. Just providing information more for the newbies. Purchasing everything to put brakes on is half the cost of a new axle with brakes. If you replace the axle in 3-5 years anyway, that axle will cost 1-1/2 the cost of replacing the entire axle now (axle+brakes = $400, plus brakes alone = $200 = $600 total [YMMV]) plus labor.

But yeah, you may be able to get a few more years out of your current axle....
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:42 AM   #9
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Name: Stephen
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If was wanting to replace my axle with a new one including brakes, where would be the best place to buy such a thing? We have an 1983 Casita 13'..

thanks
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:46 PM   #10
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This is useful. I'm picking up the 1980 Burro soon and the seller says it's got the original axle. I guess I'll have a new axle with brakes installed.

I *think* I saw someplace on the site something about higher-clearance axles? Or the notion that you could adjust an axle to have a bit more ground clearance? I anticipate some gravel roads in my camping future and it seems like a little extra room in that respect would be helpful.
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:33 PM   #11
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Do yourself a favor and make sure the new axle is a BOLT on model. Pay the extra $$ to install a BOLT on rather than a welded on should your present axle be a welded on model. The reason is this: You can jack up your camper and change out a bolted on model all by yourself in around an hour. If it is a welded on model, then you have to find a welder, etc.

If you have to change from a welded on model to a bolt on one, that is the time to add a steel box spacer to raise the camper.

Brakes: B sure to purchase an axle with the brake flanges regardless if you are going to add brakes or not. That gives you the option to add brakes at a later date.

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Old 11-25-2010, 07:10 AM   #12
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I'm not sure why so many feel a camper has to be "raised" if its worked on axlewise?
replacing a worn torque axle should restore any height lost dur to age......Remember they'll handle different raised also though maybe not too noticeable to most.
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