Is this right? 83 Scamp 13' Axel? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-30-2014, 11:26 AM   #1
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Name: Lesa
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Is this right? 83 Scamp 13' Axel?

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ID:	73130Could someone post a picture of what my axel SHOULD look like on an 83 13'Scamp-please.

I'm new BUT I thought axels ran from wheel to wheel?

Here's the best pictures I could get
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:54 AM   #2
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You have a torsion axle, it is correct and it does run from side to side. The springs are rubber inside the axle tube.
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:07 PM   #3
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Thank you very much when I looked under I said everything looked pretty good but I'm not used to seeing that kind of an axle

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Old 06-30-2014, 03:26 PM   #4
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It's an advert video for one of the big brands of torsion axle but they all work about the same. Shows cut away axle being put under load so you can see how it all works.

Dexter Torflex® Suspension Axles - YouTube

The slight arc to the axle tube is to provide some positive camber to the tires. http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/p..._pg/align2.jpg
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:01 PM   #5
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RogerDat I am getting such an education! I appreciate your posting this video. Knowledge is power
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Old 06-30-2014, 06:23 PM   #6
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One other general piece of information you might want to know about your axle. Does the arm with the wheel on it project forward (toward tongue) from the axle or toward the rear.

Those with arm going forward are called "leading arm" axles. Those going toward the rear are called "trailing arm" axles. Trailing arm is the more common in general use but Scamp used leading I don't know if Scamp switched at some point to trailing arm or always used leading arm.

Glad you found the video useful, I'm just paying forward information other members have shared that I found of use when I replaced my axle. Use the site search from the upper menu (Google option) for "leading arm axle" will pull up lots of interesting stuff.

Those rubber bars in the axle do eventually wear out and get weaker, generally takes decades. When they do wear out the trailer sits lower, when the rubber bars get weak enough the tire will rub the wheel well going over bumps. Simple test is can you get a fist on the top of the tire. Between the tire and the wheel well. Supposed to be 3 inches of clearance which is about a fist worth of space.

Still usable even after being pretty worn but if you can't get a fist on top of the tire it is probably a good idea to take it a bit easier on bumpy roads and start thinking about replacing. Depends a bit on how one uses it as to how much it matters. Short trips to local camping make axle being worn out much less of an issue than long road trips.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:52 AM   #7
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Name: Lesa
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So I have trailing arms.
I found an RV repair shop that seems honest and reasonable. He looked over all the pictures I have and said that I probably only need an adjustment for now.
I will have him do my major stuff that I would go crazy trying to manage. Lol the cost of single life aye!

I feel so much better having information. ..it's too easy for the uneducated to be taken advantage of.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:11 AM   #8
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What will they "adjust" - and why?

Jim
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:28 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by widgetwizard View Post
What will they "adjust" - and why?

Jim
Lesa, I'm with Jim and would also like to know what they propose to adjust. I don't know of anything that can or should be adjusted with these axles, and would be suspect of somebody proposing it.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:31 AM   #10
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Ahhh he said that there is a way to adjust them to give a little more clearance. That's all I remember.

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Old 07-14-2014, 11:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by SimplyLesa View Post
Ahhh he said that there is a way to adjust them to give a little more clearance. That's all I remember.

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OK - still confused here - more clearance from what?
And how will he adjust that?
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Old 07-14-2014, 12:10 PM   #12
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Name: Lesa
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Sorry IDK (I don't know).
I did the 'fist test' and my clearance between the top of the tire and the wheel well is tight. Okay by tight I mean I can touch both. Well I don't need to move it yet and I have to carefully budget my priorities.
I just hate to get taken - I had enough Gringo pricing in Costa Rica.
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:17 PM   #13
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Trailing arms may mean trailer axle mounts into bolt on bracket. One could use a spacer made from a steel square tube/channel that bolts between the frame bracket and axle bracket move the axle a couple of inches further below the frame. Or could even cut axle bracket loose if welded and then weld the extra tube/channel spacer between the frame and the axle bracket.

Put the axle an inch or two below the frame and you will pick up an inch or two of clearance. With the caveat that with the rubber compressed and beaten with age it will be easier for the trailer to bounce and use up that clearance. Also less torsion pressure keeping the tires engaged with the road, would be sort of like having worn shock absorbers on a car but raising the car up to compensate.

As a short term solution for moderate usage it could work. Would duplicate work of mounting an axle in terms of labor cost but would avoid the cost of shop measuring and ordering the replacement axle for the time being.

No idea what they charge in your neck of the woods but around here welding service is about $50 an hour. So as long as it's a modest labor charge for an hour or two it might be a good option. Maybe one of the folks who have done own axle repair can weigh in on how long it should take to shim the axle down with a spacer.

What they CANNOT do is re-weld the arm onto the axle at a new angle, the heat from that would melt the rubber inside the axle tube.

I think one of the members who welded did something like that as a temporary measure to increase clearance of tire to wheel well and the ground clearance.
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