Is wheel center bore critical? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-10-2016, 12:12 PM   #15
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Name: JD
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Normally the excess torque might lead to the lugs breaking.
These trailer wheels need to be torqued properly due to the design of the center of the wheel.
The lugs are located in an area that is dished slightly so that the nuts will deform the steel in that area and make a more secure mounting. They will hold torque better than a flat wheel.
The wheels are either painted or powder coated and until this coating is either worn off or compressed the wheels need to be retorqued often.
If a new wheel is installed this is of particular importance.
The wheel and hub should be cleaned at the mating surfaces and the nuts and lugs NOT lubricated.
After the wheel mating surface and the cones where the nuts fir into the wheel have been scoured of paint the lugnuts will hold torque.
Until that occurs the wheels need to be checked. Best is to use a click stop torque wrench and back off the nut a little so that you can turn the nut until it clicks. If you check it by just pulling on a tight nut it will click alright, but the torque may not be correct since the torque is a dynamic thing.
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Old 03-10-2016, 03:01 PM   #16
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This is the text to go with the pics I posted:

Heading east on I-40, just before Albuquerque, we hit a bump coming off a bridge, while passing a semi. The casita fish tailed and wouldn't recover. The tire rim tore thru the lug nuts and sent the tire flying at at least 60 miles an hour across the lane, down the side, across an access road and about 10 ft into a field. After getting the spare on, we noticed the other side tire rim tearing out. We hobbled to camping world. PLZ be super careful out there, we truly have been watched over by angels
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:50 PM   #17
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Did you see how much stuff is hanging off the back of that trailer?
I too have a lot of experience with wheels and tires I have worked in a custom wheel shop, raced circle track and drag strip mounted and dismounted my own tires my whole life. I agree with Red baron.
Plus the stuff on the back of the Casita acts as a pendulum once that weight gets moving it takes more tongue weight to overcome it. Improperly torqued wheels plus all the factors stated and most likely speed as they were passing,, like they said "their angels" had to step in to save the day.
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:53 PM   #18
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"while passing a semi" says it all. Semi trucks on I-40 in Albuquerque area usually run at 75+ mph speed.
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:32 AM   #19
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If the lug nuts were ever grossly overtightened at some point the bolt threads can stretch so that the next time you tighten the nuts you get a false torque reading before the wheel has been clamped down properly. Hard to tell after the fact. Just a general observation. Like tires, studs don't "heal". Treat them badly once...

"Grossly over tightened" means different levels that depend on stud size and the grade of the studs. 1/2 (and M12) studs are troublesome. The torque to yield is not much higher than the usage torque. There are other considerations as well.

There are only a few thousands of an inch of elastic stretch (not "yield" which is a plastic deformation, i.e. permanent) in a properly torqued stud. As alluded to earlier, wearing away of paint can easily "relax" the joint to virtually finger tight. Retorque often on new wheels.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:50 AM   #20
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Is the Center Bore critical?????

Well..to answer the question with a question...is it critical?

First...if the bore was not there at all would it assemble to the trailer...IS IT CRITICAL?

If the bore was too small....would it assemble to the trailer...IS IT CRITICAL??

If the bore was so large that it left a thin wall by the lug nuts causing a failure...IS IT CRITICAL???

You also have to take into consideration the clearance for the bearing hub

I'll let you decide
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:58 AM   #21
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As long as the hub fits trough it is OK.
Trailer wheels as far as I know and have been able to fins are not HUB CENTRIC.
The lugs locate the wheel centered on the axle centerline.
These lug nuts need to be accurately torqued and often especially when new wheels are fitted or until the paint is worn off all of the mating surfaces, hub, back of the wheel and the seats for the lug nuts.
The wheels on the pictures Casita looked fairly new and had probably not been torqued since it left the factory.
It would be nice to know.
The failure still looks like fatigue fracture from loose lug nuts.
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:47 AM   #22
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Looks to me like loose lugnuts as well. Blame improper maintnance for that not the semi passing. Once those loosened up, the wheel started wobbling, then it went downhill from there.

As others noted, proper torque is critical.

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