Jerking while towing - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-18-2009, 09:51 PM   #15
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Towing in OD is something that's somewhat different with different transmissions, so word-of-mouth is not always a good guide -- Read your Owner's Manual.

However, all the experts agree that if your transmission is 'hunting' or changing back and forth between two gears (ANY two gears, not just OD), it's time to force a change to the lower gear.

The only time I have experienced a back-and-forth (not up and down) jerking is when I was having a bad bearing start to seize up on the axle spindle.
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Old 04-18-2009, 10:51 PM   #16
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I didn't mean to imply that no vehicles should tow in overdrive, if that was how it sounded. Sorry. My particular vehicle doesn't recommend it, and I know many don't; but I still don't think that if you DO tow in overdrive it will change the towing characteristics of the trailer. I just don't see them as related in that way.

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Old 04-19-2009, 02:17 PM   #17
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OD shouldn't have any effect on the trailer, just on the tow vehicle -- Reportedly, there are some transmissions that do different things in OD than they do in the other gears, while to other transmissions OD is just another, higher, gear.
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:10 PM   #18
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It is a stick.

Good idea. Will look at owner's manual.

(If all else fails, read the directions)
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:47 PM   #19
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Towing in OD is something that's somewhat different with different transmissions, so word-of-mouth is not always a good guide -- Read your Owner's Manual.

However, all the experts agree that if your transmission is 'hunting' or changing back and forth between two gears (ANY two gears, not just OD), it's time to force a change to the lower gear.

The only time I have experienced a back-and-forth (not up and down) jerking is when I was having a bad bearing start to seize up on the axle spindle.

Pete,

What happen? Did it actually seized up? Damage?

Frederic
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:12 PM   #20
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It rode up on the spindle shoulder where the seal rides and welded itself there and on the spindle badly enough that I eventually replaced the axle. Most of it had disintegrated. Expensive lesson about bearing packing -- The opposite wheel had water contamination in the grease, so I presume that's what was caused the failure of the first set.
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:17 AM   #21
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Hi: Roger C H... Check the adjustment of the coupler lock down clamp. If not properly tight, it will allow the ball to slop back and forth in the coupler, with braking/accelleration. If it is too tight it can wratchet its self loose after some miles towing/turning, and if too loose it will slop back& forth. You can have a surge brake installed as a coupler to eliminate the action/reaction!!!
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Old 08-27-2009, 01:39 AM   #22
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I have not had any problem since except occasionally and in a few places. It does seem to be connected to the road. Anyway, thanks for all your input. I have more miles experience now and even that seems to help. LOL
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Old 08-27-2009, 07:25 AM   #23
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I haven't read this entire topic and maybe this has been addressed. But it's easy to forget you have six wheels (or more) now on the pavement. Every bump or pothole that hits the front tug tires will in turn hit the back tires, then the tow tires. You'll feel every one of those through the seat of your pants and through the peddles of the tug. Only some of this discomfort can be minimized by proper tire pressure, etc.
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Old 04-03-2010, 03:18 AM   #24
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I found the solution! I have not had the problem, even on the same stretch of road, since I torqued the hitch ball to 100 ft-lbs.

Thank you all for your input.

BTW: I had a difficult time finding out the torque value. I finally called Torque Lift Central in Kent and they gave me the 100 ft-lbs figure. Luckily I had a torque wrench, had to buy a new socket though!
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Old 04-03-2010, 07:43 AM   #25
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Roger, et al
First confirm that you have adequate tongue weight. US experts seem to say 'at least 10 percent' of the gross weight of the trailer should be on the hitch. I agree more with those who suggest that 12 to 15 percent is a better target.
I think don's suggestion is a good one.... I've had problems before with that jerking motion and i just changed the tongue weight and it went away.
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Old 04-03-2010, 11:28 PM   #26
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I found the solution! I have not had the problem, even on the same stretch of road, since I torqued the hitch ball to 100 ft-lbs.

Thank you all for your input.

BTW: I had a difficult time finding out the torque value. I finally called Torque Lift Central in Kent and they gave me the 100 ft-lbs figure. Luckily I had a torque wrench, had to buy a new socket though!
Roger:

I have been having this problem too, and checked hitch weight (okay), tire pressure (okay), ball mount fit in receiver (okay), weight distribution (okay) but until reading this post for the first time tonight had not thought of hitch ball torque. I will try torquing up the hitch ball and see what happens. I will need to find a torque wrench and the right sized socket. If you look at http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/tech...upler_tech.html you will see that [b]150 ft. lb. torque is recommended for a ball with a 3/4" connection and 250 ft. lb. for a ball with a 1" connection.

I suspect the problem may be more pronounced with a 13 foot trailer and light tow vehicle, since we are unlikely to use a WDH. Rough roads certainly make the problem worse!

Brian
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Old 04-04-2010, 04:12 AM   #27
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This makes sense as tire lugs nut are suppose to be torqued to 100 ft. lb. and if you look at a torque chart for bolt sizes it goes up as the bolts get bigger.

Bill K


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Roger:
I will need to find a torque wrench and the right sized socket. If you look at http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/tech...upler_tech.html you will see that [b]150 ft. lb. torque is recommended for a ball with a 3/4" connection and 250 ft. lb. for a ball with a 1" connection.

Brian
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Old 04-04-2010, 12:01 PM   #28
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This makes sense as tire lugs nut are suppose to be torqued to 100 ft. lb. and if you look at a torque chart for bolt sizes it goes up as the bolts get bigger.
I'm not sure if you mean for trailer tires or vehicle tires, but probably each person should check the proper specs for what they have. My vehicle's wheel lug nuts, for example, are supposed to be tightened to 85 foot/pounds (115 newton/meters).

I've experimented a bit and figured out how much force it takes me with my particular self and four-arm, so that I can tighten the lugs darned close to that rating on the road without needing to carry a torque wrench along.

Now, how would one find the torque specs for the trailer nuts? Would that be a factor of the lugs (axle) or wheel or...

(BTW, I should mention that I am responding to Bill's post about wheel lug torques and not hitch-ball nut torques - I understand they are larger.)

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